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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, new to the forum and bought an 01 V70XC with 75k last month, put about 2k on it since then. Has some of the common issues and from the research I've done please let me know if I'm on the right track. Appreciate any advice!

trans - very infrequent flare from 1-2 and occasionally shifts slow from R to D. Going to change (not flush) fluid.

speakers in doors cut out - taking it to the dealer to have this looked at - tested the connections under the seats (and unplugged air bags momentarily while doing this so I need them to reset the airbag light on the dash) speakers cut in and out randomly

alarm needs svc - going to order a battery and replace myself per instructions on the forum

tailgate open message - checked wiring at rear hatch, looks good, next step is order a new sensor and put that in myself.

Needs LCA bushings and sway bar ends as well, looking to IPD for those. And planning on installing myself.

Have a frozen lug nut on one of the rear tires, have been hitting it with PB blaster and trying it for about a week, have a long breaker bar on it but no progress yet.

Would you pros approach any of these items differently? thanks for the help !
 

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Transmission has a yellow plastic dip stick. Check the color of the trans fluid on a white card. If dark, plan on multiple drain/fills. Buy a case of Mobil 3309 on Amazon. About 3.5 quarts will drain when the trans plug is removed. A little more will drain if the left side of the car is raised. Use a new crush washer. I did many drain/fills using 18 quarts to get the fluid to red. Drive a few hundred miles or more between drain/fills to allow the new trans fluid to mix and clean the trans interior components.

You may find the alarm circuit board is damaged by the battery leaking.

These cars use bolts to secure the wheel. Good luck
 

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Loosen all the other bolts slightly while the vehicle is on the ground. Let it roll a bit then hammer the brakes, you should hear a click, if not try agian with a bit more momentum. Also works well to free up wheels and rotors. I've always had great success using this method, but I'll say use it AT YOUR OWN RISK.

While at the dealer ask for the "Total CAN Update" to update all the modules on the vehicle.

Since you're into DIY you should invest into a VIDA/DiCE setup so the next time you trip the SRS you can reset it. Also has tons of other uses.
 

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Loosen all the other bolts slightly while the vehicle is on the ground. Let it roll a bit then hammer the brakes, you should hear a click, if not try agian with a bit more momentum.
I am sorry, but that is just plain risky. There is a common misconception that the bolts hold the wheels on. They don't: The friction between the wheel and the hub is what holds the car to the wheel. The bolts merely ensure the friction exists. Loosening 4 lugs removes most of the friction-holding, and you risk oval-ing out the bolt holes on the wheels, not to mention risking the bolt snapping which brings the whole car down on the inside rim of the wheel or the pavement, depending on how unlucky you are. My advice with a frozen lug it to use an impact wrench. If you don't have one, make a trip to a shop & let the pros break it loose.
 

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Nonsense! Driving a car around the block with no lug nuts/bolts at all is risky... not that I ever did that or anything...

In all seriousness, it sounds like he's going to have to lunch a lug bolt and probably apply heat to the stub to extract it. I've never had a bolt break on me yet no matter what vehicle I was working on, but there's a first time for everything.
 

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You guys are taking this out of proportion. When I said slightly loosen the bolts I meant so that the bolts are still seated on the wheel, not remove them. I also said let it roll, not drive around. At most a 10'-20' run will do the trick. If you think it's risky then that's OK. Just stating what works for me. I've only had to use this method a few time to free up wheels, rotors, or lug nuts and has worked very well without anything breaking.
 

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You guys are taking this out of proportion. When I said slightly loosen the bolts I meant so that the bolts are still seated on the wheel, not remove them. I also said let it roll, not drive around. At most a 10'-20' run will do the trick. If you think it's risky then that's OK. Just stating what works for me. I've only had to use this method a few time to free up wheels, rotors, or lug nuts and has worked very well without anything breaking.
this.
it's a common shadetree trick to pop rusted rotors/drums from the hubs their seized to.

it's not the friction fit of the wheel on the hub that holds it on there. it's the machined bore riding on the machined lip of the hub that support the weight in a hub-centric design. FWIW there's also lug centric wheels and hubs. if you don't loosen the lug bolts enough to let the wheel slip off the hub lip it's not going to fall off or damage the wheel.
 

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Thumbs up on the rotor trick from me guys, BUT.... I'm still not sure where it says he's having a hard time getting the rotor off.. just the lug bolt. Maybe I'm misreading it.
 

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I've never tried it for lugs. Chances are someone's cross threaded the bolt.

The single biggest disadvantage to lug bolts as opposed to studs. it's easy to replace a boogered stud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've never tried it for lugs. Chances are someone's cross threaded the bolt.

The single biggest disadvantage to lug bolts as opposed to studs. it's easy to replace a boogered stud.
Thank you for all the responses! I appreciate the guidance
 

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For the tailgate make sure the cargo mat is pushed all the way back to the seats, it tends to creep forward with use and cause the tailgate to not fully latch and thus set off the warning. This happened to my mom when she first got my xc70 and we didn't figure it out for 2 years (!!!) until one day we were at the dealer and they just went out and shoved it all the way in. Problem Solved!
 
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