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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I want to introduce two new members, TylerNW and myself, to the community. Tyler, my younger brother, just purchased his first car which is a 98 V70R and is new to the enthusiast community. I am here to help guide him along and help him work on as well as mod his car. While I am also new to Volvos I am not new to cars. I come from the world of VW's and Audis with a hint of BMW. But thats enough of that. Most of you came in here to see pictures of a car. Well here are the few that I have so far.









Like I said it's a 98 V70R. 150k miles and has the black leather/alcantara interior. Over all it is in pretty good shape. The paint needs a good buff and needs some dents pulled but nothing serious. Also the sound system isn't that bad for stock. It has the Dolby sound system with the speaker in the middle of the dash which I guess not all come with. Tyler has a list of things he wants to do such as the jewel headlights, pegasus wheels, suspension, a tune (intake and exhaust as well), a front lip, and a roof spoiler. We have already switched the relay to run independent fogs (as you can see) and deleted the read wiper (was seized anyway). But maintenance is paramount. It has new CV boots and oil. But now this is where you guys come in.

I have done some research and found that the PVC system seems to be a concern around here. So I have that in my list. Also the brakes are fine minus the rear pads. Any suggestions on brands? Does Volvo use a proprietary coolant? Please let me know if I am missing anything important. Here is a link to my shopping car on IPD:

http://www.ipdusa.com/basket.asp?st...6=1&V7=11320&Q7=1&V8=11992&Q8=1&V9=14376&Q9=1

Thats enough of the wall of text for tonight. Thanks for taking the time and I look forward to spending more time on here!

Josh
 

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welcome!


Coolant wise as long as you flush the system realllly well you can switch it to any modern all engine coolant if it doesn't already have it.

I see you got both the firewall and engine side of the upper engine mount, good job there. Full tuneup kit + wires, good. PCV system, double good. Be prepared though on the PCV job that you have to take the intake manifold off, not that hard though.

Seems you have your stage 0 (what we call getting a car to a good stock mechanical healthy state) pretty down pat.


As far as performance stuff goes here are the 2 big things to know.

#1. The absolutely first performance mod to the car HAS to be the IPD sway bars. It is the single greatest modification to these volvos, and most everyone here will back me up on that.

#2. Tune wise go with the green tune from ARD, hands down the best tune for a '98R with the stock 16T turbo. http://ardideas.3dcartstores.com/ARD-Green_p_13.html

#3: That rear wiper is pretty dang handy...you'll regret not having it.


Finally, at 150K miles you have to start thinking about the health of the turbo. If it's the original one it's probably spitting a little bit of oil towards the intercooler, pull off the pipe and take a look. A bit is expected, mine does it. However if you find the car losing a noticeable amount of oil with no apparent leak, it may be time for a rebuild of the turbo. though really burning a lil bit of oil isn't that big of deal.


Oh yeah, and get the IPD adjustable wiper relay if the car doesn't already have it. Gives you on the upswing of the wiper lever a programable amount of time. So push up, then down, then up again. The time it takes you to go up again is the time between wiper swipes. SUPER handy. http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5324/103226-adjustable-wiper-delay-relay
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! I see you are from Washington as well. From looking around there seems to be a few other people from around the PNW which is cool.

I am going to have to check on the sway bars. I have heard it is an awesome upgrade (I upgrade them on my own cars) but this thing corners much flatter then any stock car I have been in. I didn't think to check for them last time I was under the car. But what I forgot to mention was that the car has Koni adjustable shocks on the front (ninvomats on the rear) which could be a big part of it or the PO before the PO I bought it from already had the sways installed. The car also already has the IPD spark plug wires. So who knows what else I will find under there.

As far as the oil goes, there is a small amount in the pipe. But we had a indie shop with a volvo guy do a pre purchase inspection and he said the exact same thing you did as well as dont worry about it for now because it's fine. Also the engine bay is pretty damn clean for the milage and it hasn't seemed to consume any amount of oil since purchase luckily.

The ARD tune is what I was looking at. The guy seems to be a good guy from his presence on the forums and he is only about 2 hours away. And you cant argue with the price!

Ill check out the wiper relay. That thing sounds pretty cool. Small mods like that are awesome. I have been shocked by the amount of things that can be changed with a simple relay or fuse. For example, you can get rid of the door chime with just a fuse. None of my cars have been that easy.
 

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Welcome to SS, Josh+Tyler!

Wagon looks good, and it seems like you and Tyler have a pretty good idea of where you want the car to go.

Looking over your IPD cart, I'd recommend skipping the plug wires and PCV kit. Many users have had issues with the plug wires failing in a few thousand miles, and IPD's PCV kit includes a couple URO parts, which are pure junk and will fail in a matter of months.

For basic maintenance stuff, I'd give FCP Euro or Tasca Volvo a look as they are often more affordable than IPD and carry more OE Volvo parts, which are better quality but more expensive than many aftermarket replacements.

EDIT: Lucky at ARD Tuning is the man, a true Volvo diehard, and from everything I've heard+seen, his tunes are hands down the best on the market.

Also, that wiper relay can be pulled from some VWs and Audis. It's labeled "99" on it, I'm running one in my R.
 

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Yea for plug wires just stick with the Bougicord which is the OE Volvo brand.

Personally, I use Volvo coolant but there is as usual some debate on whether or not this is strictly necessary. At 150K it might be a good time to flush out the old power steering fluid and put in some new stuff. Any Dex III ATF works fine or you can go with some synthetic. You only need a couple quarts to do a good flush so it's a pretty cheap DIY just try not to spill it all over the alternator.

Also, if you have a pump, the AWD components should be serviced by replacing the gear oil. The front and rear diffs just have fill plugs so you have to suction out the old stuff but it's pretty easy. The front diff (angle gear) and rear diff technically take two different oils which are available from the Volvo dealer. Front diff takes .7L, rear diff 1.3L
 

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I highly recommend the Akebono euro ceramic brake pads, I run a set on my 01 V70. It took about a week to break them in, where the pedal effort was higher, but once bedded in they bite really nice with just toe pressure. Zero noise and almost zero brake dust. Combined with zinc plated rotors, the view behind the wheel looks brand new 6 months after install. I'll never do anything but plated rotors ever again.
 

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Whatever vendor you go to for your PCV kit, make sure it's all OEM hoses. FCP Groton was supposed to swap everything over to true OEM hoses but not sure whether that has happened yet or not. I ordered mine direct from Tasca.
 

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To the OP and to all else who may have stumbled across this thread, just a heads up that with the exception of early 850 series kits (for which OEM PCV components are now NLA from Volvo) IPD carries only OEM PCV components. There may be aftermarket (Viton) injector seals and perhaps an aftermarket gasket in a kit here or there, however the major components are all OEM. We made this change after experiencing issues with certain aftermarket kit components from URO.

OP, that looks like a real beauty of a V70R, and the staff here at IPD are always just a phone call away if you have any questions as you start working on your new rig!

Cheers, and welcome to Swedespeed and welcome to the Volvo community!
 

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Good looks IPD, glad to see you got rid of the URO crap :)
 

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It depends on what your budget is and how much you want to do to the car but if you have $1000 to spare, I would suggest this:
- do the PCV
- since you have already taken off the intake manifold, might as well visit www.snabb.us and buy the Big Bore Throttle Body kit with the larger opening manifold - $370
- from the same website, get the SNABB performance intake pipe - $150

The PCV is important, the rest of the upgrades will make the car more responsive. Peak power may go up a few HP, not really significant, but throttle response will be greatly improved. If you've driven the car, you may have noticed that from 1000 to 2000rpm there's not a whole lot going on.

The ARD tune is great, but you have to remember that you are increasing boost pressure, therefore putting more stress on components. By improving the intake, you are simply making the car breathe better.

Once you do a full Stage 0 (PCV, plugs, all hoses, transmission flush, coolant etc...), then an ARD will be a great addition. But getting a tune, before you are fully sure of the condition of the car may not be a great idea.
 

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Sigh...Voltage, he made it plenty clear he's getting to a full stage 0 first.
 

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Whatever vendor you go to for your PCV kit, make sure it's all OEM hoses. FCP Groton was supposed to swap everything over to true OEM hoses but not sure whether that has happened yet or not. I ordered mine direct from Tasca.
IPD now posts that their PCV kit has all OEM parts, No URO AND WELCOME TO THE FORUM!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the warm welcomes and suggestions guys. It is much apprecaited. My shopping cart has changed a bit and I have made sure almost everything is OEM. I will also make sure to get the trans and diff flushed. I have an oil extractor but I dont have a way to get the oil back in. So I will either buy one of those hand held pumps or just pay someone to do it.

I also have another question but this time regarding control arms. Are any of the aftermarket brands any good? I know from the BMW world they use Meyle, which are a fraction of the price for OEM Volvo, but that doesnt mean they are a quality product for these cars. I have seen multiple cases where one community adores a brand and the next community swears them off for good.

HighVoltage. Thanks for the input. But sadly the intake mani isnt quite in the cards right now but will be further down the road. But rest assured that a full stage 0 will be performend before any power adders go on.
 

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I think the generally accepted dogma here is that when it comes to control arms, the Chinese ones are crap, and the OEM part is well worth the extra coin. They'll go 100k or more, whereas the Chinese ones are widely reported to need replacing much sooner.
 

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I highly recommend the Akebono euro ceramic brake pads, I run a set on my 01 V70. It took about a week to break them in, where the pedal effort was higher, but once bedded in they bite really nice with just toe pressure. Zero noise and almost zero brake dust.
+1. Also, there's some debate about coolant type to use for later model Volvo cars. There are issues with phosphates and other additives in some coolants, and issues with mixing types. Safest bets (and most expensive) are Volvo and Pentosin brands (and they have a cool bluish color, if that matters), but I concluded after considerable research that Zerex G-05 is also a safe, and more economical, choice for our cars.
 

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+1. Also, there's some debate about coolant type to use for later model Volvo cars. There are issues with phosphates and other additives in some coolants, and issues with mixing types. Safest bets (and most expensive) are Volvo and Pentosin brands (and they have a cool bluish color, if that matters), but I concluded after considerable research that Zerex G-05 is also a safe, and more economical, choice for our cars.
MIXING types is the big issue. As long as you don't mix, you are fine. The key is a substantial FLUSH of the system, and then sticking with one type. Once you flush the system, these cars do just fine with ANY modern all-engine type coolants.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the coolant input. I decided to go with Pentosin as I use their stuff in my own cars along with a full flush. Everything is on the way. Look like a I have a pretty busy day coming up.

But this was interesting. I was installing IPDs intake today since it showed up and I found this rallitek TBC. I dont know what to think about this.



And here is the good stuff

 

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Interesting. Sounds like there are already some basic mods. Those look like a set of aftermarket plug wires already installed...
 

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Looks like one of the original IPD HDTCV's, also someone upgraded using some silicone tubing. Starting to look real good under the hood!
 

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welcome!

As far as performance stuff goes here are the 2 big things to know.

#1. The absolutely first performance mod to the car HAS to be the IPD sway bars. It is the single greatest modification to these volvos, and most everyone here will back me up on that.

#2. Tune wise go with the green tune from ARD, hands down the best tune for a '98R with the stock 16T turbo. http://ardideas.3dcartstores.com/ARD-Green_p_13.html

#3: That rear wiper is pretty dang handy...you'll regret not having it.

Oh yeah, and get the IPD adjustable wiper relay if the car doesn't already have it. Gives you on the upswing of the wiper lever a programable amount of time. So push up, then down, then up again. The time it takes you to go up again is the time between wiper swipes. SUPER handy. http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5324/103226-adjustable-wiper-delay-relay
I thought I remembered when I first got my car that the IPD sways were not much different than the R sways? Do the IPD sways degrade the ride of the R's very much?
 
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