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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
A white '98 V70 XC popped up on craigslist with 144k miles, new tires & alignment, black leather interior in decent shape, for $1700. I've been looking for a beater to get me through the winter and keep my E30 out of the central MA salt & snow, this seemed exactly what I'm looking for.. a little beat but daily driver qualified. Heated seats, some maintenance history, oil changed properly, boost gauge and MBC (which makes me nervous but I'll likely pull it out, and it hasn't been turned up), AC works (my E30 doesn't have AC), oil pan gaskets done, motor runs quiet and the car rides fine. Timing belt is <40k miles old. Needs rear shocks and I think mounts, sometimes makes a rattle over potholes.

Owner before current removed the AWD bits, I'm guessing the bevel gear and whatnot started going bad so he pulled it. Current owner left it that way, better mpg's anyway. That's fine by me, I figure I could always delve into re-installing if I really want to.

Carfax showed 3 yrs ago the driver rear-ended someone. Not critical, was repaired and despite bumper & headlight misalignment I'm satisfied because it's aligned and drives true. Paint is even holding up just fine, a few dings here and there but nothing major. No rust or rot.

A few electrical issues... fuel gauge & miles-to-empty are non-operable. I've looked into this, it seems the AWD fuel tank is not easily dropped. Should I be very worried that the pump is next to go and then I'm left dropping the subframe or throwing $1500 at it? Shoot, I might have to look at the cut-a-hole route. The passenger seat switch must be bad, doesn't work (driver's is ok).

Rear seat 40% portion is stuck folded because the seatbelt is locked tight against it. This can't be too complicated.

Does this sound like something I should avoid, or is it worth $1500 to use as a beater for awhile, maybe fix up and sell down the line? Any tips on the fuel gauge / pump question?

A couple pics, don't worry I would ditch the mirror covers and stickers:





 

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you don't need to drop the fuel tank to get at the pump and replace it. it's accessible right through the cargo area. I have the same issue and it's the level sensor. the pump operates fine.. i just top it off before every journey. if you can get a hold of the VADIS software and install it, it'll show you exactly how to do it. drawings and all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
you don't need to drop the fuel tank to get at the pump and replace it. it's accessible right through the cargo area. I have the same issue and it's the level sensor. the pump operates fine.. i just top it off before every journey. if you can get a hold of the VADIS software and install it, it'll show you exactly how to do it. drawings and all!
how certain are you of this... on the XC's? I keep seeing horror stories and people cutting their floor. I'll live without a fuel gauge just fine, but my concern is that it's a sign that the pump could also fail
 

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maybe it's different on the XC? I have an 98 R and the Vadis software tells me that i can just get to it through the cargo area.. I'm actually going to try to get at it this weekend.. i may rip it out and see if there's anything repairable or maybe it needs a good cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
maybe it's different on the XC? I have an 98 R and the Vadis software tells me that i can just get to it through the cargo area.. I'm actually going to try to get at it this weekend.. i may rip it out and see if there's anything repairable or maybe it needs a good cleaning.
Interesting. I'll be curious to hear how it goes, let me know! and good luck
 

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As for the back seat, if it's anything like the 01 then what happened is one of the little plastic belt stops broke, which allowed the belt to retract too far when folded. Your only option is to try and get at the bolt to unhook the belt, then stand the seat up and replace the belt stop.

The seatbelt locks are set up so any G forces other than vertical (with the seat up) lock the belt, so when you fold it down it locks. Volvo's solution was to put a plastic stopper pin in the belt so it doesn't retract when you fold it. Unfortunately that easily breaks. My car had two of them gone when I got it, and I ended up cutting the belt.

You could also try unbolting the seatback and flipping it upside down to get at the seatbelt bolt. Again if it's anything like the 01 it comes out with only one or two bolts.
 

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maybe it's different on the XC? I have an 98 R and the Vadis software tells me that i can just get to it through the cargo area.. I'm actually going to try to get at it this weekend.. i may rip it out and see if there's anything repairable or maybe it needs a good cleaning.
AWDs are all the same but I believe you need to cut a hole out.
Vadis lies all the time!
 

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I have a '98 V70 XC and the tank was cut by flying debris from the road.
My indy changed the tank by removing the whole rear subframe first(!)
There is no access to the fuel gauge that I could see last weekend when I had to fix the overflow pipe.
The "normal" V70 has a nice access plate so you can get at the fuel pump/gauge unit- I had the big seal leak once and found it pretty easy to get at.
 

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I didn't get a chance to look this weekend, spent some time trying to work on my '02 Monte Carlo SS.. but maybe then there's extra frame stiffening that gets in the way for the XC?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I didn't get a chance to look this weekend, spent some time trying to work on my '02 Monte Carlo SS.. but maybe then there's extra frame stiffening that gets in the way for the XC?
From what I've seen, the tank is revised to accomodate the rear differential and modified subframe design needed for the AWD system. Let us know what you find.
 

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http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/155362-98-xc-resurrection/page__p__2136611#entry2136611

The sender is actually 2 units. Half of the complete unit is on the pump side (passenger) and the other is the sender with the siphon pump unit on the drivers side.

The reason the fuel gage goes out it because the wires going into the unit rot and sever right as they are going into the unit. You can tell very easily if this the case by removing the panel that covers the front of the tank (1ft/sq plastic panel) and looking at the wires (the sending unit is on the front of the tank, closest to the front of the car and on a diagonal. My wires were completly shot and unreapirable.

To correct this, you need to lower the tank on that side. Do so by removing the 4 bolts that hold on the rear control arm at the front (if not the tank cannot move very much) and remove the tank strap on that side. You can now gently pry the tank down (I used a 2x4 as leverage from the top and be careful of the hard lines.

Hardest part is removing the fuel lines from the unit. Do this by using a trim removal tool to get right under the plastic connector and pry up as you simultaniously push the line down. This should cause the connector to slightly retract, allowing removal of the lines. It's a pain so work at it a while.

You can then unscrew the sender (make sure you have very little to no gas in the tank or else you are now pouring it out) using an oil filter wrench. Remove and replace the unit. I recomend cutting and splicing in the wiring as finding the top or the harness without removing the tank is a pain in the ***.

I got a used unit out of a 2000 for my 98. Only difference was 3 wires in which you don't use 1 and it works fine (black is omitted).

When installing, make sure you use a new seal and crank that nut down as much as you can. Any questions, feel free to ask.

This is definitely the easiest way to do it and should only tank an hour, most of the time is fiddling with the fuel lines on the removal. I don't recommend dropping the tank completely as you need to remove the rear subframe or going in with the cutting of the floor method which leaves the floor wear around the seat mounting point and a place for rust to form.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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You can use the sender out of any AWD 98-2000. The 2000 had an additional grounding wire which was not used on the 98 though the assemblies are the exact same. I just make sure the ground wasn't touching anything, wrapped it up and bingo, all done.

Check for people parting their cars or the junkyard. I saw the $250 price tag, scoffed and got it done for under $50 with a new seal, which I definitely recommend.
 
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