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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings Swedespeeders.

I wanted to take a quick moment to recognize how much of a treasure trove is in here for DIYs and mods, which gave me some assurance to go ahead with a purchase of a 2007 model. It was admittedly an impulse buy (sight unseen, online) when I was killing time, waiting for kids at ski school a few weeks ago. But that's just masking my desire to have a 5 pot engine produce a different type of mechanical cacophony. I was pleased that the car came with some decent records from what seems to be an OCD previous owner.

This is our second recent Volvo, the other being a Passion Red R-Design/Polestar XC90 which we picked up in Gothenburg via the OSD program in Spring 2017. There are two other Germans in the garage at present.

The car has a shade under 91k but being an East Coast car means that I'll be cursing at the undercarriage in no time. I'm mainly a DIY guy, decently equipped, but will quickly run out of talent especially when I need to turn my attention to other hobbies. I'm a bit more patient at cosmetic detailing, and have done a mild paint correction with Menzerna and coated with CQuartz UK 3.0 when the car arrived. I'm also counting about 8 minor dents which will get addressed by my regular dent wizard, and a small spot of clear coat flaking won the rear bumper which can get easily corrected since it was caught early. The winglets are in bad shape, and replacements have been ordered. I also immediately swapped out interior bulbs for LEDs and touched up some spots with Seat Restore in Nordkap. Both turned out great.

After the cosmetic stuff, I intend to get all the fluids and filters replaced, new pads/rotors (Brembo/Akebono), radiator flushed. Then a timing belt in probably due soon, as are all the serpentine belts and tensioners.

Then it's off to the handling/feel and keeping temps down. No intention of a major tune for now, and here's what's on the horizon:
- shifter bushings or Snabb SSK to address slop. I'm fairly used to notchy and weighty shifts on my other cars and generally prefer increased tactility
- IPD Track sways and Meyle HD sways. I actually purchased a QuickJack from costco for this job...while there's still a $100 rebate.
- DO88 IC for those summer days
- TME exhaust to replace what appears to be a moderately rusted out OEM system. Remember what I said about that 5 Cyl sound? I could use more of it but without annoying the neighbors.
- 4C Monroe shocks from Autodoc (I was keeping an eye on that thread), likely with stock springs. I may go with TME springs if I can tolerate the scraping against my driveway. I already need to angle at stock ride height and I would prefer not to destroy those new winglets.
- Last on the list is a Snabb downpipe, but depends on whether I bother to swap out with the ongoing California inspections. I may go with a custom pipe that allows V-band swap between aftermarket and stock cat.

It's been a pleasure lurking around here, and I'm happy to take suggestions on other typical maintenance issues I should be aware of. Or if any of the Bay Area folks want to meet up.

Without further ado.....some pics which speak for themselves.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12a_aLUyF-Nv6i3jJemgB9zhgSFFiAhQ3

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pUJNLAhfhLlxYkcm-9xIHivpwSGdSPio

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aRARgildxRzBoX3M1dRxvhkJefuUDGvA

https://drive.google.com/open?id=14tadIyLZckMeIt4RF5P8Dt33tZ_CquJw

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1buyCJjMwec_0GLY1RlJHgBSFtwz_a-mX
 

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Great looking caR, congratulations on the purchase. Do you happen to have a link to those winglets you are ordering?
 

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Looks great, I'd recommend OEM pads (I think Jurid) over akebono. I had akebono for a while, they work good but compared to OEM but lack the bite. I have heard that Portfield R4S pads are the best though, one of my buddies had them on his R. Good choice on the R & 991, really drivers combo ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks great, I'd recommend OEM pads (I think Jurid) over akebono. I had akebono for a while, they work good but compared to OEM but lack the bite. I have heard that Portfield R4S pads are the best though, one of my buddies had them on his R. Good choice on the R & 991, really drivers combo ;)
Thanks for the tip on Jurid. Online vendors seems to make different claims on who is OEM ranging from Brembo and Textar to Jurid. I assume they all weren’t built to same spec or bite level.

Good eye on the 991, I thought the focus would be more on the pile of garage mess. I committed to clean up over Memorial Day and finish painting all my RC cars.
 

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Yeah, they defintiely weren't. I know 100% Brembo is not the OE for pads, rotors I'm not sure though. I think rotors is actually ATE. I'll also be working on the cleaning up the garage as well as doing some more detail work on a few cars.

Very interesting with the RC, what scale?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Very interesting with the RC, what scale?
We (meaning me and kids) have a variety, ranging from vintage 80's 1/10 Tamiya and Schumacher Cat SWB I raced as a kid, which are in perpetual restoration, which my wife likens to my full sized Saab SPGs. Then there's a cabinet full of re-release Tamiya's which we chip away one at a time - Bruiser ,Super Champ, Sand Scorcher, a collection of Porsche reissues, Bigwig, Rough Rider, Avante Black. I think at least a good half will remain NIB. About 18 years ago i amassed Tamiya kits 1 through 50 NIB, long before the market went crazy. But a move to an apartment forced sale.

There's also a few runners laying around for bashing (Mad Bull, XV01 Pro) at the local BMX track and in the snow, and a lonely Xray 1/18 M18 for tennis court fun. Overall, a bit of a money pit of a hobby, some times more than full sized cars.
 

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Wow, that is quite a collection. I used to have a ton of 1/18 models, more or less replicas of classic 90's supercars (McLaren F1, CLK-GTR, Porsche GT1, etc.) Alot of them got damaged over the years, most are in peices unfortunatley. One day I'll start a new fresh collection but this time it mgiht be 1:43.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow, that is quite a collection. I used to have a ton of 1/18 models, more or less replicas of classic 90's supercars (McLaren F1, CLK-GTR, Porsche GT1, etc.) Alot of them got damaged over the years, most are in peices unfortunatley. One day I'll start a new fresh collection but this time it mgiht be 1:43.
I could never get into the static/display collection mode because my idle hands just need to see them do something other than sit on the shelf. The only ones I have successfully kept are those i squirrel away out of sight. My kids will have a field day if I get run over by a bus tomorrow.
 

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I could never get into the static/display collection mode because my idle hands just need to see them do something other than sit on the shelf. The only ones I have successfully kept are those i squirrel away out of sight. My kids will have a field day if I get run over by a bus tomorrow.
I bet, it might be tough hiding the collection, that said just wait till they get older and start asking for the keys :D

Back to topic - The D088 is defintiely the way to go, as well as the TME. They are both excellent quality and have really helped performance and sound.

I'm currently installing an IPD rear sway 25mm and an OEM 25mm front sway along with Delrin subframe bushings, trying to document everything now, I have both subframes out so it's a bit easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I bet, it might be tough hiding the collection, that said just wait till they get older and start asking for the keys :D

Back to topic - The D088 is defintiely the way to go, as well as the TME. They are both excellent quality and have really helped performance and sound.

I'm currently installing an IPD rear sway 25mm and an OEM 25mm front sway along with Delrin subframe bushings, trying to document everything now, I have both subframes out so it's a bit easier.
I'll definitely keep a lookout for recent Delrin experiences. Thinking of the IPD inserts but won't make a call under I get until the car for a good root around to see what's holding and what's broken. For this car, I'm trying to avoid NVH.
 

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I definitely am as well, especially since I have an Auto. I'm more focused than most on reducing NVH. I've done my HW on these and there should be no noticable difference, that said if they do increase it too much I'll remove them.
 

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If you need to plug into a Vida/Dice feel free to drop me a line. I’m in Oakland and will require a six pack.

Otherwise I highly recommend getting a setup yourself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Looks great, I'd recommend OEM pads (I think Jurid) over akebono. I had akebono for a while, they work good but compared to OEM but lack the bite. I have heard that Portfield R4S pads are the best though, one of my buddies had them on his R. Good choice on the R & 991, really drivers combo ;)
I have the Portfield R4S pads and love them I recommend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you need to plug into a Vida/Dice feel free to drop me a line. I’m in Oakland and will require a six pack.

Otherwise I highly recommend getting a setup yourself.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Much appreciated. Because I tend to overload on electronic tools, I actually got myself a setup as well. It took a bit of undoing an old laptop back to IE9 for it to work, but I just got the first error dump...mostly courtesy light related checks which failed, probably the result of the LEDs I swapped in. Else looks clean, but I can ALWAYS get you a six pack for other reasons. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I definitely am as well, especially since I have an Auto. I'm more focused than most on reducing NVH. I've done my HW on these and there should be no noticable difference, that said if they do increase it too much I'll remove them.
Let me know how this goes and your experience if you're renting the tool. I'm more concerned about the swear words used when trying to remove the old bushings.
 
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