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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone

I'm new here, and a new first time Volvo owner. I just bought a 1988 240DL 5-speed wagon last weekend. It has a few issues that I'll address in the next few weeks. I am happy to finally own a Volvo, and looking forward to sorting it out and having a decent driver.

The current issues:
Heater Core(currently by-passed)
Blower motor
Knocking in the front suspension on rough roads


I have a heater core on order, and the blower motor is here waiting. I've replaced a few heater cores, but never in a Volvo. Should be fun, from what I've read on the internet...

Anyhow, thanks for allowing me on the forum here.

Roger

 

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Front end noises probably relate to the suspension (upper strut mounts, ball joints, tie rod ends [inner and outer], bushings, etc.). You'll need to get the front end raised and check them for play, etc..

Here's a few sites that'll come in handy for service and repairs:

http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/FAQSummary1.html

The last one is mainly for 7**/9** series but there's a lot of info there that also fits for 240s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks John and George, for the links, and the tips. I appreciate it. What is "USD"?

Since you mentioned upper strut supports, I think you may be right on that. The car drives fine with no ill handling, just some knocking upon bumps in the road.

Thanks again

Roger
 

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Up-side-down - your position while swapping out the blower motor and heater core.

Most folks also remove the front seats.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Small update: Heater core showed up today. I started working on it out in the driveway. I spent about two and a half hours removing the dashboard, before the rain started. I still have to pull the enclosure out and replace the heater core and blower motor, and then put it all back together. Fun job...

Thanks again for the links above.

Roger
 

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Small update: Heater core showed up today. I started working on it out in the driveway. I spent about two and a half hours removing the dashboard, before the rain started. I still have to pull the enclosure out and replace the heater core and blower motor, and then put it all back together. Fun job...

Thanks again for the links above.

Roger
...and a new heater control valve/thermostat.

George Dill
 

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A popular theory is that Volvo first built the heater system in 140s/240s and then built the rest of the car around it. I had to do a heater core in a 142 several decades ago, and I hope I'll never have to do one again. :rolleyes: OTOH, we didn't have the Art Bernstein Sawsall system then. :p
 

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A popular theory is that Volvo first built the heater system in 140s/240s and then built the rest of the car around it. I had to do a heater core in a 142 several decades ago, and I hope I'll never have to do one again. :rolleyes: OTOH, we didn't have the Art Bernstein Sawsall system then. :p
Reminds me of the hole in the 240 firewall to remove the top starter bolt and the two holes in the firewall to slide out the cams on the PRV V6 and the engine removal needed to change the oil filter on the Chevy Citation.

The 122 is easy to work on unless you have the under-dash AC with the OE kneepad then its easier to pinch off all the heater hoses and run a reroute using an inline hand valve.

George Dill
 

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George, do you have any pics of the access hole for the 240 upper starter bolt? It looks like a hole with a cover plate could be a useful mod if it doesn't weaken the firewall.
 

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George, do you have any pics of the access hole for the 240 upper starter bolt? It looks like a hole with a cover plate could be a useful mod if it doesn't weaken the firewall.
Can't find pics with the details but still gooogling.

A person running a stable of 240s long-term might benefit from cutting a hole in the firewall to access the top starter bolt given that this repair could come around every ten years or so.

A daily-driver 240 brought up to near-new specs may need starter repair about every 150,000 miles (15-20 years?) and by then it could be the grandson has a cordless power wrench that slips right over the top bolt from above in the engine bay.

I'm seeing all sorts of work-arounds on this - move the trans over a few inches, use an open-end wrench from the top, pay a starter shop, etc.

The key element seems to be - loosen the bottom bolt first but then tighten it again so as to remove any side forces from the top bolt.

More...

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?184173-1979-Volvo-244DL-starter-replacement-nightmare

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1219316&show_all=1

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1237750&show_all=1

http://www.brickboard.com/TOOLBOX/index.htm?id=1227940&show_all=1


Roger - did you find those clips?

George Dill
 

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Thanks George. I've looked at the usual removal methods, including one with wobble sockets, extensions et al, but whenever I see a less than easy part removal I'm always looking for an easier way to get the bugger out. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
An update:

Heat works very good/great even. I was able to source the blower fan retaining clips from a local wrecking yard a few miles away. I picked up some interior trim pieces as well, all for a whopping four bucks. I was not looking forward to ordering those clips from IPD for about $20(after shipping)! Anyhow, I have about a dozen hours into the project, and it was somewhat frustrating. I hope I never have to do another one, but would if it came down to it. Thank you guys for all of the links and tips. I appreciate it very much.

Roger
 

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Nice Job, Roger!! That's a pretty clean wagon you found there, btw.

The front suspension on these cars are a lot easier to work on, particularly compared to the heater core ;). You'll be surprised how well these things handle even if the bushings are shot up front. I second the advice above and say get her off the ground. Give everything a little shake, shimmy, or tug and visually inspect the rubber bushings for dry-rot or oil damage. Things you may not be able to see the condition of are the shocks and the upper strut mounts.

Keep us updated on the progress. There are some great guys on here with a TON of useful info and assistance when needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Nice Job, Roger!! That's a pretty clean wagon you found there, btw.

The front suspension on these cars are a lot easier to work on, particularly compared to the heater core ;). You'll be surprised how well these things handle even if the bushings are shot up front. I second the advice above and say get her off the ground. Give everything a little shake, shimmy, or tug and visually inspect the rubber bushings for dry-rot or oil damage. Things you may not be able to see the condition of are the shocks and the upper strut mounts.

Keep us updated on the progress. There are some great guys on here with a TON of useful info and assistance when needed.
Thanks Tony. The suspension with be next on the list of things to sort out. I have a couple more issues to add:

* The drivers seat looks like it has been replaced with another passenger side seat(knobs on right side). There is a drivers seat(torn and wrong color) at the wrecking yard I was at the other day for $31. How hard is it to transfer the seat cover from one to another?

* Interior light works only when switch is turned completely to 'on'. door switches do not turn it on.

* one door doesn't lock with the power lock feature


Thanks again for all of the help.


Roger
 

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Probably the first thing to do with electrical issues is to check all of the ground wires and clean the connectors. Bad grounds can do weird and not so wonderful things to the electrics, including back circuits. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
A little Holiday adventure for the Kids and I today. I think this car with studded tires(looking for some now) will be a good winter car. I drove in an inch to two of wet snow today, and it was pretty predictable(no surprises), and it will pack out a decent sized tree.

 
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