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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday I went to a junk yard and got myself a "new" door (from an 89) to replace my damaged Driver's door. I was able to successfully re-attach the "new" door, but not without somehow disabling the power window motor and preventing my power locks from working with the key. My two new problems are this:<p>1)With all the wiring hooked up, if I hit up/down on the power window switch, I hear a click come from the motor, but the window doesn't move, so I know there is a signal. The donor car had manual windows so I do not know if using the electric even works or if I some how just damage the motor cause the motor worked before I swapped doors.<p>2) Power locks. If I am outside the car and I turn the key, the power door locks do not work. If I physically push or pull the lock up and down, the power locks work. What connection am I missing, because I do not see where something is not making contact.
 

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Re: New Door, New problems (MenardVolvo)

Describe the damage to the old door and what "old door" components you installed into the "new" manual door.<p>George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: New Door, New problems (gdill2)

The previous door was open when the car started rolling backwards, got pinned to another car, and got pressed backward. The original door recieved a nice large dent just below and to the right of the rearview mirror where the door metal was pushed in by the front panel, and door now is able to swing out to about a 90 degree angle.<p>Parts that were installed into the 1989 door from my 92 door were the key lock only, I left the original power lock stuff in there (which actually still worked in the junk yard) and I removed the entire manual window assembly, minus the glass which I left, and replaced it with the power window assembly out of my 92. I tried to swap out as little as possible.
 

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Re: New Door, New problems (MenardVolvo)

Check all electrical wires, connections, terminals, grounds, etc. both in the door, behind the kick panels and under the dash including associated relays.<p>Just because the insulation on a wire appears intact does not mean that the conductor wire(s) inside are providing continuity especially on wires that were stretched when the original door was "pressed backwards".<p>Be sure the hinges and hinge mounting areas are not distorted.<p>BTW, be careful around cars that can move on their on.<p>George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: New Door, New problems (gdill2)

The wiring appeared fine, contacts were clean, terminals functioned. I plugged the front window wire into all 4 connection points on the window control and got the same result, just a clicking noise. In order to get the window assembly out, I did remove the motor casing and unscrew the motor. I saw no other way to get the motor itself out without snipping the wires as it appeared to have no other means of disconnecting it. So, the wires were taken off, motor pulled out, assembly was switched, and wires were re soldered. There in might lie the problem of course, but the motor is obviously getting the signal from the switch, as it clicks when the button is pushed.<p>As far as the power locks, I realize now that the black clip attached to the key lock seems to be very sensitive, cause when I shifted it a fraction, it locked all my doors, and now the power locks do not function at all. Is there a specific setup for that black clip for it to function properly?<p>As for the car moving on its own, I just now realize its very important to never assume the ground is level, and then when panicking, stepping on the brake is more effective than the clutch. Live and learn I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: New Door, New problems (MenardVolvo)

So, all the connections and such check out, anyone got any other theories on whats up with the window motor? It clicks, but doesn't move, so its getting the signal.
 

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Re: New Door, New problems (MenardVolvo)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>MenardVolvo</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, all the connections and such check out, anyone got any other theories on whats up with the window motor? It clicks, but doesn't move, so its getting the signal.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Temporarily remove all electrical wires from the window motor and feed it 12 volts with a hot wire from the + post on the battery then provide a separate ground.<p>If this does not activate the window motor it may be faulty.<p>George Dill
 

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Re: New Door, New problems (gdill2)

Thanks. I'll give that a shot this weekend. Not having a window that rolls down makes drive thru fun.
 

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Re: New Door, New problems (swimmer240)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>swimmer240</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks. I'll give that a shot this weekend. Not having a window that rolls down makes drive thru fun.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>"... never assume the ground is level, and then when panicking, stepping on the brake is more effective than the clutch..."<p>Define "drive thru".<p>No, never mind.<p>George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: New Door, New problems (MenardVolvo)

Fixed the powerlocks, there was an exposed wire on the black clip which attaches to the locking mechanism, so got my power door locks back. I hooked up the window motor directly to the battery,and got no response, so I am thinking the window motor is dead. Seeing as it functioned properly before I took it out and put it back in, I wonder if I killed it during the moving process. Is there a proper/specific way to remove/replace the motor?
 

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Re: New Door, New problems (MenardVolvo)

Salvage electrical parts may test OK but die in short order.<p>George Dill
 

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Re: New Door, New problems (MenardVolvo)

<A HREF="http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1287086&parttype=1516&a=FRc1287086k33093" TARGET="_blank">http://www.rockauto.com/catalo...33093</A><p>George Dill
 
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