I got my EBC green stuff pads installed with my Pilenga rotors (REAR)...and Jesus Jones...they squeak and sound like a semi stopping...i can feel the vibration on my ebrake handle...any thoughts before i go back to the shop and have them looked at?
i didn't install them a local shop did....prob not they said bring it by tomorrow but if it was an easy fix of had some idea when i go in i wont look like a fool...HA<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by failurbydesign at 5:28 PM 5-11-2009</i>
I took the car in, they guy said the brakes may be too hard for the rotors, they lubed em up again but same CRAP! Any recommendations on what or how to fix this issue, im about to get some new pads and be done with it!<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by failurbydesign at 6:12 PM 5-11-2009</i>
Pilenga rotors? You do know volvo OEM are so well made they chew up the machine shops use to cut rotors right?<p>There is a gel that you can put on the back of break pads that dampens them and stops squeaking. Its a red bottle I believe its called BG stop squeak.
Are the Pilenga rotors made by Volvo? IPD had them so i got them! The EBC pads where lubed with some purple gunk on the back, i would prefer not to work on my brakes since i dont have much knowledge in this area..
The stop squeak is not a lube its more like a glue/foam. It makes a little cushion for the break pad. <p>Buy a bottle and have the shop use it. Other then that idk how you can pay someone to do a break job, its real easy and quicker then washing the car. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
If memory serves Pilegna is there own company but they make molds for brembo. <p>The EBC green stuff is the everyday pad. Its a higher quality then Ultimax, at least IMO. I've run the brembo ceramic pads for a while on my mazda and they worked really well (the backing came off and chewed up my rotor but the pad was solid)<p>For our cars even a semi metalic pad wouldn't be an issue. So its really your choice. <p>HOws the feel with the Green stuff pads vs stock?
Try beding them in. Break in time should be a few days otherwise, but if you use this procedure it would be a few minutes.<p><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><br> 1.<p> From a speed of 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.<br> 2.<p> Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.<br> 3.<p> The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.<br> 4.<p> After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need about 5 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.<br> 5.<p> If race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction 01 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph.<br> 6.<p> After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.<br> 7.<p> After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness. <br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>From: <A HREF="http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm" TARGET="_blank">http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm</A>
Gotta say that ive never had any squeak issues using oem factory parts <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> I feel the stock pads stop fairly well. If aftermarket rotors is what people are after i would be all for it since slotted rotors have proven to be beneficial in extreme consecutive braking situations. Id still rock factory pads though, or bevel the edges like the R brembo brakes <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
I'm looking into getting the OEM police spec dimpled rotors. Anyone know where I can get a set?<p>Those would be cool!<p>And I definitely want ceramic rotors just because I can't deal with all the brake dust our cars produce. Any upgrade in braking performance is just a bonus.
you can get "otto zimmermann" brake discs over here in germany... maybe they've got a reseller at your place too? <p>or maybe shipping isn't an issue? <br>look here: <br><A HREF="http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=350164303905" TARGET="_blank">http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAP...03905</A><p>considered buying them too when my discs are done, but I'm not sure... the OEM ones are pretty good!
I am running the EBC Green Stuff on my car with OEM rotors. The first 200 miles were noisy and I bedded them properly. There was a decent smell of kevar burn (imagine a roasted clutch) and they squealed horribly at first even with anti-squeal on the backing plate but they are much better now (got 1000 miles on them). I use reds or Mintex for track day racing but figured i didnt need to plow into the back of a commuter car using a ceramic compound pad on the street. OEM's would have been my choice of pad as they were decent but had a good price on the EBC's that I couldnt pass up.<p>Todd