SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ordinarily I'd not bother with mentioning something so trivial, but given the minimal traffic I thought "Why not?"

My 2007 C70's battery gave up the ghost a couple of days ago, no longer holding a charge. Ordinarily I'd get a battery at a discount auto-parts chain, but the price at the dealer wasn't much different. I was surprised that they needed/wanted my VIN number to tell me which battery my car took - the implication was that sometime during 2007 there was some sort of change made.... This made me question whether the auto-parts stores would necessarily have the exactly right dimensions (even though they probably would have). I also gave up a bit of time in the pro-rated battery warranty - the after-market battery would have had an 84-month pro-rated warranty, whereas the Volvo-branded battery is only 60 months.... As a side question, one of the discount auto-parts places showed two different batteries for a 2007 C70, with different group numbers (I want to say 91 and 94). The description for one of them said that it was intended for trunk-mounting. Did C70's convert to a trunk-mounted battery at some point? (I think recent S60's do have the battery in the trunk....)

Anyway, after replacing the battery, there were only two things that needed to be done - the clock needed to be set, and the windows needed to be "re-trained". Basically, the windows "forgot" about the 1/2" lowering that they do when starting to open the door. Also, the "all windows down" and up buttons didn't work at first. But after running each window up and down several times, the windows apparently re-learned their up and down limits, and the all-windows buttons and the automatic 1/2" drop resumed working. (I believe it is the case that there is actually a small micro-controller for each window mechanism, one in each door, and one for each of the small rear-side windows....)

On the other hand, other things that I thought I might have to reset, like the memory seat settings, and audio system settings, etc., all were retained, even though the car sat for a day without a battery in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,384 Posts
I'm a bit tired from trimming Live Oaks today, so bear with me...what battery did you finally purchase? We're on our third battery in the 3 1/3 year old XC60. The original just plain died one afternoon...WAY dead. Replaced under warranty, the new battery was weak less than a year later...also replaced under warranty. Can't say I've looked at the new one(or the old ones, for that matter :) ). IF I have to purchase a replacement on my dime, it would be good to know how aftermarket batteries compare.

By the bye, I reckon the dealer did the little 'external power source hook-up' while exchanging our batteries. Nothing needed to be re-set after either exchange.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm a bit tired from trimming Live Oaks today, so bear with me...what battery did you finally purchase? We're on our third battery in the 3 1/3 year old XC60. The original just plain died one afternoon...WAY dead. Replaced under warranty, the new battery was weak less than a year later...also replaced under warranty. Can't say I've looked at the new one(or the old ones, for that matter :) ). IF I have to purchase a replacement on my dime, it would be good to know how aftermarket batteries compare.

By the bye, I reckon the dealer did the little 'external power source hook-up' while exchanging our batteries. Nothing needed to be re-set after either exchange.
Coachrick, I ended up buying the Volvo-branded battery from a dealer - it was a 700 CCA, 80 Ah battery. I don't recall a specific part number. Since there was a core charge, and I sas installing it myself, I took the bad battery out one evening, bought the new one at lunchtime the next day, and then installed it that evening. So I was glad that being "battery-less" for a day didn't require more resetting of things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Hello, I keep hearing about an all windows down button. I have a 12 c70. Am I mising something here? There does not appear to be an all Windows up or down button. I have 2 front windows that are auto up and down and 2 rear ones that are not auto.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,384 Posts
Hello, I keep hearing about an all windows down button. I have a 12 c70. Am I mising something here? There does not appear to be an all Windows up or down button. I have 2 front windows that are auto up and down and 2 rear ones that are not auto.
Well, now you've got me thinkin'! Did our '04 have a single button for 'all windows down' ? Our '11 has the four individual buttons per usual...no 'all down' button to be found. Only way to get all down with ONE button is holding the unlock button on the key fob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My 2007 C70 has "all windows down" and "all windows up" buttons, which are on the driver's door armrest, just below (to the rear) of the four individual window switches.

You have to hold the "all windows down" button down until the action is completed (in other words, it's not a "one touch" arrangement). Both fronts start to go down first, and then the small rear side windows follow a second later.

In the case of the "all windows up" button, I have to hit it once, and then hit it a second time (and hold it), to make it work. I assume this is for safety reasons, in case other passengers have their arms in the way, or whatever.

Perhaps they got rid of these buttons entirely, also for safety concerns. But they are handy when putting the roof down, which in my car leaves all of the windows up. I like the windows down when the roof is down, unless it is pretty cold.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
649 Posts
My 2007 C70 has "all windows down" and "all windows up" buttons, which are on the driver's door armrest, just below (to the rear) of the four individual window switches.
Very interesting - those switches are not in my 2011, and I suspect they were lost with the mid-cycle refresh in 2010. Coach is right, the only way to get all the windows down at once is with the key fob. I wonder if the switches can be modded back on? Would be interested in a pic of your door setup to check it out.

There's a separate thread on the issue of having all the windows stay down when putting the top down, so this switch would be handy.

Separately, thanks for the battery replacement info. I was wondering about whether the windows would have to "trained" (as is required in some Hondas). I hope to get a few more years out of my 2011's battery, particularly since we don't have the extended heat here in New England (it's been a very lovely summer -- sorry to brag).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
506 Posts
I have not posted for awhile, however I remember you can get a replacement battery at Walmart for about $120. Can't remember off the top of my head the number. Will post it later...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
I still have my original 2006 battery, still going strong (knock on wood). The delaer here in North VA wanted $250 to replace the battery. Normally I replace my own batteries, but with the cross brace, it looks really tight.

I use the auto all windows up/down button all the time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
506 Posts
There is a new technology battery for our cars in the 94r AGM. Sears has a 800 cca for $200, wow!!! Battery from my 2006 manual trans is OK and keeps going. Will get this battery soon. My Dynaudio sucks some amps. My windows do one touch down but hold for up. Hope that helps,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
This is great info on replacing the battery. I am going to replace mine tonight and know that newer cars have procedures that need to be followed to get everything back to normal. Thanks for the tip.

On a separate note, the All Up/Down switch was discontinued after the 2008 model year.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,384 Posts
I've mentioned in other threads that our '10 XC60 was on its third battery when we swapped it w/56k miles(3.4 years). Our '11 C70 battery was just changed per the dealer's suggestion...low output causing some electrical snafus. The C70 is not quite 2 years old, 27k miles. I reckon the Texas heat can have some effect on the life of the batteries. ;) Thank you for 'Safe and Secure' :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
I'm still on my original battery. Am I playing with fire here? So far, all seems fine. Car will be 5 yrs old in May. Now, my tires are another story. I just hit 12k miles. Sad to need a new battery and new tires, but it's age I guess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
With batteries it seems to be more about age, or possibly the number of starts. If your battery is going to go, it might be on a real hot day. One thing to look at is to make sure that the fluid level inside of the battery cells is good. Basically so that the tops of the plates aren't exposed/dry. (The owner's manual says what to look for.) Use distilled water if you need to add any, and a small kitchen funnel. Just add a little at a time, since it doesn't take much, and you don't want to over-flow battery acid.

Actually, I just had a battery-related minor issue. My wife went to start the car, after driving to the grocery store, and it just clicked, but there wasn't enough charge (apparently) to turn over the engine. When I got there with another car, there were other weird symptoms, the weirdest of which was that the windows started stepping down a half-inch at a time, all by themselves!

My battery was only 8 months old, or so, and when I measured the battery voltage, it seemed good, so the apparent lack of sufficient charge to turn over the engine was puzzling. (But in any case a jump got the car started, and it drove home OK.)

At home, I tried re-starting it, and again it wouldn't turn over. This time, I spent some more time poking around with a voltmeter, and discovered that with the car running (after re-jumping it), I got a bit over 14 volts on the cables (as expected with the car running), but only 12 volts on the battery terminals themselves. With the engine off, it was about 12.5 volts on the battery terminals (also basically as expected, with a good battery), but only 11 volts on the cable ends. By measuring voltage with respect to chassis ground, I figured out that the + cable end and + terminal were at the same voltage, but that there was 1.5-2 volts difference between the negative/ground cable end, and the - battery terminal. In other words not a good contact/connection between the negative/ground cable end and the - battery terminal. So I removed the negative cable, and ground down (using a Dremel tool, but a hand file would also work) the inner surface of the negative cable end. Corrosion seems to occur at the negative/ground cable/terminal junction, due to the negative/ground cable end being made of copper, (whereas the battery terminal is the usual lead alloy). After doing this I was getting good contact, and the car would start up with no problem. Just something else to be aware of, if experiencing apparent battery problems....
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top