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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so I somewhat impulsively picked up a 2006 2.5t with relatively low kms a coupla weeks ago for cheap. unfortunately I now know why it was cheap (and feel it wasn't so cheap now). AWD is definitely not working. driveshaft spins in my hand with ease. now, i'm not tooooo pissed because I still think it was dirt cheap compared to the space cadets in the area that still want $10,000+ but now i'm in deeper than I wanted to be. but at the same time pissed because the seller straight up lied to my face, I did ask him about the awd….


so, just so I get my head around what i'm in for (and so I make only one more parts order lol) what else should I be looking into? I already have all the bits needed to get the engine back into shape (218kms on it with the original timing belt!) as well as a whole mess of filters and general tuneup bits.

it has an anti skid warning which I've not yet diagnosed because I am waiting for VIDA to arrive. I have read about the clock spring but is there an outside chance that the anti skid and the spinning driveshaft are related!?!?! (let me down easy, i'm trying to stay positive here!). is there any chance that the spinning shaft is something OTHER than the splined collar? (I know a grenaded angle drive is a possibility but are we looking for anything other than straight up mechanical failures here?)

seeing as the angle drive is coming out, I guess i'm doing all the driveline fluids now too. because while i'm there.

I THINK the only thing left for me to find messed up is the suspension. brakes were new in the fall. suspension feels good but apparently my judgment has been off so far lol.

one last question I have is regarding the exhaust. the front muffler is looking rough. not sure it will get thru the safety inspection, might just be starting to leak. do the 2.5s start sounding all crappy and uncivilized if I were to replace that first muffler with a straight pipe? the rear looks fine other than the obligatory broken hangar (which I have the fix for on hand).


sorry for the verbal diarrhea, 3 kids under the age of 5 means I don't sleep much lol


oh ya, doin all this myself, not afraid to get dirty. this is what I have built for the hell of it (and what the volvo is to tow). it's also haldex now too ;)


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive wheel system City car
 

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- Ignore the AWD, just drive the car as FWD and use Winter Tires. This is what I do with my 2005 XC90 2.5T with 120K miles, similar mileage as yours (yours has 200,000 km).

- Ignore the anti-skid, this is what I do. The clockspring business...search and you will find out people spent thousands $ and still back to square one.

- Spend money on PCV, spark plugs, Timing Belt (Volvo TB kit is about US $110), ATF fluid changes etc.
 

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Seems to me that when our AWD was not working (07 3.2) there was the anti skid light and our issue was just a pump failure.

I think I would pull that fuse in the back to remove power to the components until you get the mechanical fixed.

While under there doing the pump I also trimmed a lot of the tin like cover off from around the bottom of the first muffler. I don't think it is leaking yet.

Got a lot of snow in your area that you need to fix it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
thanks for the replies.

I'm in Ottawa Canada. i have to deal with safty inspections and (admittedly not for long) emissions tests to get a licence plate on it.

already have the timing belt/waterpump kit on my bench and am gonna try and get the engine sorted this weekend.

I need AWD to work properly. anti skid needs to work too because I will not pass the safety inspection without it and I won't be able to plate it. pcv looks to have been at least opened recently as all the hoses have worm gear clamps on them as opposed to the OE crimped ones. i note though that the top of the oil separator is VERY oily. my guess is the separator is not draining well??

i can make this 100% now easily as I still have another car to drive. once that car is sold, having this car down for a few days to dig into the guts of it is not feasible.

think what i'll do next is get the parts order for all the driveline fluids and collar ordered and then when the time comes, one more for suspension.... once major system at a time lol.
 

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It is possible that just collar sleeve for the angle gear has stripped. The driveshaft should not spin freely unless all wheels are off the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ya, that's why i'm gonna take the angle gear out. From the small amount of reading i've done so far, chances are decent that the crresponding splined shaft in the angle drive will be ok so it's just the collar.

The way i'm looking at it now is kinda like a fuse.

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AWD for your car might well be sleeve (I think service kit PN 31437982 includes sleeve plus seals). If the angle gear input splines are stripped, you may have a few options for a used unit replacement. PN 36000340 is listed for the "exchange" unit, supersedes PNs 36000272, 8602919 and 8603809. The following vehicles use the same angle gear or so it appears on the "new" Volvo parts menu the resellers are using (Lisle as example)-

Volvo S60 2003-2009 (no engine defined but certainly AW5 transmission)
Volvo S60 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2006-2007
Volvo S80 2003-2006 (will be 2.5l only)
Volvo V70 2003-2007 (will be 2.5l)
Volvo V70 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2006-2007
Volvo V70 XC 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003-2007
Volvo XC90 2.5l 5 cylinder Turbo 2003-2007

Believe the key here is 5 cylinder and AW50/51 AWD, no guarantee that it'll drop in directly but this is what I'm seeing. If you call Erie VoVo I’m sure someone can tell you in more detail since they move these parts for a living (they sell a used angle gear for around $600 with a lifetime warranty as a point of reference).

If you're going to do much work on your car, maybe slap a copy of a VIDA image on a working PC somewhere and have a review of what's in there for your car. Having this level of documentation on hand will prove invaluable for what you'll be wanting to do, you can get a DICE later and connect up to your car if it's warranted (troubleshooting a bad SAS as one example). Info here- https://forums.swedespeed.com/forumdisplay.php?121-OBD-CANBUS-amp-Engine-Management

2006 is a good year for this variant, if you can get things back to working you should be in pretty decent shape.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks for the very detailed info, i appreciate that. My vida dice "is in the mail" from china. Hoping it's here soon...

I am in teardown mode right now. I was very pleased to get the downpipe off the turbo without swearing or anything breaking. Luckily as well, it appears my turbo is not leaking stuff. I will be swearing a bunch later today when i start dealing with exhaust hangars. Man i hate those things....

Goal for the weekend is to get the exhaust/angle drive out, remove the intake and get access to the timing belt. Basically open up everything i know i need to fix.

The timing belt was my first indication i may have made a mistake. Think my timing belt is due?!?!?!

Oops! Good thing i don't mind turning wrenches


And because pictrures are better the hooptie in question



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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got exhaust out with no drama which is nice. Almost have the propshaft out but can't get it out of the rear end. Any tips? Been tapping the solid part of the driveshaft near the joint to no effect. Obviously don't wanna hulk smash it lol

Also there this pretty clear waxy grease/oil that seems to have leaked from the haldex pump and filter. That's not the oil i don't think? Unless it's radically different from the vw 4motion in my racecar????

The offending part:


And ya, downpipe is pooched lol



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Why are you taking the whole prop shaft out? To remove the angle gear? You just need to disconnect the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good point.

I will be changing the haldex fluid too. Getting the shaft out will make it easier. But just getting lowered at the middle will still help a lot. I didn't actually look but i assume there is a drain or am i sucking it out the fill port like all the other fluids? (Wtf i hate that crap!!) I saw a video on youtube and buddy took the pump motor out to drain. Not possible to do that with the shaft in.

But ya, maybe you're right, just leave it there...



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Yeah you either have to suck it out or pull the pump. Pulling the pump will allow you to clean the screen and replace the filter.

If I'm pulling a pump and the prop shaft flange is that rusty, I sell the flange and cut it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hmmm, would like to clean pump (and make sure ot works lol) but at the same time, meh.

What are the chances the pump will break 2 days after i get it on the road and working lol



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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, got angle drive out, confirmed stripped collar. Looks like the shaft is ok tho. Dirty as hell. The grease combined with the rusted steel shavings...... ewwwwww lol

Lotsa brake cleaner n shop towels in my future.....

I understand there is some sort of upgraded collar available. What are the thoughts on them? On the one hand, don't fancy digging this out again, on the other, cheap part to fix. I wonder if the strengthend part would force the failure point to something more expensive....

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I don't know anything about the collar but it seems you are doing a great job in bringing this car back to life. I've never seen a timing belt look that bad without breaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Got everything off that needs to come off except timing belt/water pump. I didnt get a chance to look but i saw other threads about getting the prop shaft off the rear end. So, may yet figure that one out.

Here's the reason i took the IM off, other than to clean up the throttle.


Worm gear clamps tell me someone has been here. But the oil separator is very oily. You guys think this is because i think the poor SOB that did it just played with hoses and dodn't take off the intake (i'm definitely the first) and that the mess is from the now replaced cracked hoses?

In other words, i think the pcv system is ok just messy from the old hoses that look to have been replaced.

The engine mount on the top of the motor, supposed to have lotsa "slack"? Rubber seems fine, just that it seems to move freely. Is that as designed?

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The top engine support (torque bar) is supposed to have slack. Just make sure it’s not sloppy to the point it’s knocking around. My ‘06 was doing that, then I discovered a couple of the bolts on the ends were a little loose. Tightening them stopped the knocking that was related to throttle input.
 
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