Hello folks! So some of you may know that my car has have pretty much everything replaced suspension and steering wise and all engine mounts.
I replaced all 3 engine mounts on my car 2-3 weeks ago. Right side engine mount was replaced with aftermarket one from Professional Parts Sweden. My left side mount was replaced with a Febi mount. And the middle torque mount was replaced with a efocus mount purchased on ebay.
When i was installing the right side engine mount, i noticed it was abit off... holes didnt match up and when comparing to old OEM that was on, it didnt look the same either... anyway, i replaced it and had to fight to match the bolt holes with engine mount. Everything looked fine when it was installed. New was ofcourse in better shape than old OEM. So from here everything good.
1 week later i started getting a knock sound over bumps and when turning left. I inmediatly suspected the engine mount. Went to see how it was sitting and i saw this...
![Image]()
It was pretty much sitting all the way down, so it was not supporting anything. I went and bought a OEM at my dealer after this and i could tell right away the build quality was much better. The centre was stiff not like the aftermarket one when i got it new.
Today i removed the aftermarket one and it so happened that i saved the 12yr old OEM mount that was installed so i could compare.
(Left to right: Old OEM, Aftermarket, New OEM)
![Image]()
As you can see from gap between metal bracket and rubber side, the new OEM has much bigger gap. I measured the gap with caliper and these were the measurements
New OEM: 13.5mm
Old OEM: 10mm
Aftermarket: 8.8mm
The aftermarket unit has way smaller gap than 12yr old OEM mount. Now if we check the middle rubber full with fluid, look the difference.
![Image]()
As you can see from video, the aftermarket failed much more than old 12yr OEM mount after just 1 week... This is the gap i have now with brand new OEM mount and thats how it should be:
![Image]()
![Image]()
Its pretty hard to tell on photo and with such a bad angle. But before i could not get my pinky in between the gap, now i can. Last but not least, is the bolt hole alignment between new OEM and aftermarket:
![Image]()
![Image]()
I know the OEM looks abit back, but i just had to push engine abit forward and it was centered perfect. However, aftermarket was all cruked, didnt march holes at all. I had to twist the whole mount while putting in bolts. Took me abit longer than expected.
Now what im trying to say is, dont save on the hydraulic mounts buying aftermarket because they will prematurely fail. Dont skip on this and buy new OEM. They are abit more expensive but they will also last longer.
Hope this was a helpful advice for some people out there who are considering buying new mount and/or for future reference because we know how these mounts tend to fail
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
I replaced all 3 engine mounts on my car 2-3 weeks ago. Right side engine mount was replaced with aftermarket one from Professional Parts Sweden. My left side mount was replaced with a Febi mount. And the middle torque mount was replaced with a efocus mount purchased on ebay.
When i was installing the right side engine mount, i noticed it was abit off... holes didnt match up and when comparing to old OEM that was on, it didnt look the same either... anyway, i replaced it and had to fight to match the bolt holes with engine mount. Everything looked fine when it was installed. New was ofcourse in better shape than old OEM. So from here everything good.
1 week later i started getting a knock sound over bumps and when turning left. I inmediatly suspected the engine mount. Went to see how it was sitting and i saw this...
It was pretty much sitting all the way down, so it was not supporting anything. I went and bought a OEM at my dealer after this and i could tell right away the build quality was much better. The centre was stiff not like the aftermarket one when i got it new.
Today i removed the aftermarket one and it so happened that i saved the 12yr old OEM mount that was installed so i could compare.
(Left to right: Old OEM, Aftermarket, New OEM)
As you can see from gap between metal bracket and rubber side, the new OEM has much bigger gap. I measured the gap with caliper and these were the measurements
New OEM: 13.5mm
Old OEM: 10mm
Aftermarket: 8.8mm
The aftermarket unit has way smaller gap than 12yr old OEM mount. Now if we check the middle rubber full with fluid, look the difference.
As you can see from video, the aftermarket failed much more than old 12yr OEM mount after just 1 week... This is the gap i have now with brand new OEM mount and thats how it should be:
Its pretty hard to tell on photo and with such a bad angle. But before i could not get my pinky in between the gap, now i can. Last but not least, is the bolt hole alignment between new OEM and aftermarket:
I know the OEM looks abit back, but i just had to push engine abit forward and it was centered perfect. However, aftermarket was all cruked, didnt march holes at all. I had to twist the whole mount while putting in bolts. Took me abit longer than expected.
Now what im trying to say is, dont save on the hydraulic mounts buying aftermarket because they will prematurely fail. Dont skip on this and buy new OEM. They are abit more expensive but they will also last longer.
Hope this was a helpful advice for some people out there who are considering buying new mount and/or for future reference because we know how these mounts tend to fail
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
