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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good evening everyone! Hopefully everyone had a great weekend.
So it's time for the next fix on my car. I'm needing to replace the struts on my 2007 s40 2.4. Does anyone have any advice on which ones to purchase or where to purchase them from? Do I just replace the front ones? I received great advice on replacing my lower control arms with the cheaper priced sports one! I'm hoping there's similar advice for the struts. Thanks in advance everyone.
 

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Depends what you want. A sporty, firmer ride or just get back to stock? You have stock springs I assume? Is price important?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Back to stock would be great. Everything is still stock. Do I need to replace the springs too or just the struts? Thanks! Reasonable prices are always great.
 

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The BILSTEIN B4 OE REPLACEMENT would be a good choice. There are some slightly cheaper options if your budget is real tight. These have the lifetime warranty though.
You don't need to replace the springs. I would suggest replacing both the strut mount & bearing with OEM though.
 

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This is a timely post. I have a new to me 2004 S40 T5 than needs front strut replacement. Like the OP I'm looking for stock ride. Was looking at the Bilstein B4. Like the thought of lifetime warranty. How do the B4 compare to sachs/boge from a performance perspective? My S40 has dynamic suspension. Most after market seem to be one size fits all where original Volo OEM seems to have different part numbers depending on suspension type. Does one size fits all work or should stick with OEM?
Sorry OP for the hijack.

thanks.
 

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I'm not sure anyone's done a full strut comparison, especially since bilstein just came out with the B4s for the p1. But IMO, anything with a lifetime waranty has to be pretty good stuff otherwise they wouldn't make any money on the parts (right?). If you're looking for the best performance struts, I'd go with bilstein b7 or koni's and call it a day.
 

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I'm not sure anyone's done a full strut comparison, especially since bilstein just came out with the B4s for the p1. But IMO, anything with a lifetime waranty has to be pretty good stuff otherwise they wouldn't make any money on the parts (right?). If you're looking for the best performance struts, I'd go with bilstein b7 or koni's and call it a day.
B7? I'm not sure they have a B7.

B4 - OE replacement
B6 - OE length sport replacement (for std springs or mild lowering)
B8 - Shortened shock for use with lowering springs
B12 - Kit with B8 shocks and eibach springs
B14 & B16 are coilovers.

I have recently fitted Koni Orange (STR.T) shocks. Apart from receiving a faulty one, they are great. Not noticeably firmer than OE, but much less body roll and generally holds the road better.
 

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I don't believe B8s are actually any shorter. That would be nice as we could then use them on the AWD rear but note they aren't approved for that application. They just have a firmer valving to cope with the increased rate of typical lowering springs. They were never marketed in this way years ago. It was HD=B6 & SPORT=B8. Sport Bilsteins on a stock rabbit would jar your teeth out but boy did it handle. Things have improved in the last 30 years. :).
 

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This is a timely post. I have a new to me 2004 S40 T5 than needs front strut replacement. Like the OP I'm looking for stock ride. Was looking at the Bilstein B4. Like the thought of lifetime warranty. How do the B4 compare to sachs/boge from a performance perspective? My S40 has dynamic suspension. Most after market seem to be one size fits all where original Volo OEM seems to have different part numbers depending on suspension type. Does one size fits all work or should stick with OEM?
Sorry OP for the hijack.

thanks.
These are going to be very similar. I wouldn't hesitate to use any of these for stock use.
 

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I don't believe B8s are actually any shorter. That would be nice as we could then use them on the AWD rear but note they aren't approved for that application. They just have a firmer valving to cope with the increased rate of typical lowering springs. They were never marketed in this way years ago. It was HD=B6 & SPORT=B8. Sport Bilsteins on a stock rabbit would jar your teeth out but boy did it handle. Things have improved in the last 30 years. :).
Every site I read re: B8's say they are shortened, that's what I was going off. It'll only be a shortened rod, not the body but shortened all the same.
 

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Every site I read re: B8's say they are shortened, that's what I was going off. It'll only be a shortened rod, not the body but shortened all the same.
Well, it could be so then. This would put the "sweet spot" back in the middle of "normal" travel I suppose. We'll have to wait for someone to do a side by side comparison I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Alright, so sweet success in changing my struts with the Bilstein ones. The ride feels so much better now. Boy were those struts shot.

However, the struggle continues. While changing them it noticed that my CV joints looked really bad and need to be replaced. I figured I can replace them after alignment so off to Firestone I went. Well, I get a call telling me that they actually can't align my car because the tight rod ends are stuck? Parts and labor to have them replaced were quoted around 700 or so. They also told me that my rack and pinion is also going bad and that'll be around another 1250 to fix. I don't want to bring negativity to the forum but it's been quite a fixing spree with the car. I know a lot of it is regular maintanence and things that are prone to go bad but it can be additive. This is what I have left that I know of so far:
- tie rods
-Rack and pinion
-CV joints (normal i know.)
-then hopefully I can finally get the elusive alignment on my car
-O2 censor (i think, also normal i know)
-timing belt (normal)

I believe the CV joints are pretty DIY, but are the rack and pinion and tie rods? Any feedback on parts and labor? Thanks again everyone and I apologize if this all sounds negative or even worse.. whiny!
 

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Sounds like you are getting taken for a ride.

What do you mean? "my CV joints looked really bad" Torn boots? If they aren't making noise simply re-boot them.

Tie rod ends stuck. Par for the course. Free them yourself & take it elsewhere for the alignment. Pull the wheels, clean the threads with a wire brush while dousing the jam nut with penetrating oil. See if you can free the jam nut (21mm?). If you can, work it back & forth till it's very free while dousing the newly exposed area with penetrating oil. See if you can get the tie rod to turn now. There are small flats near the inner boot (12mm?). Try to avoid putting pipe wrench, etc. on the rod. The rod generally will come loose without too much effort once the jam nut is free. Unscrew & grease all the threads. If you can't free the jam nut then cut it off with a Dremel, chisel, nut cracker, whatever. Unwind the tie rod all the way & install a nut from the hardware store. 16mm x 1.5 I believe. Check both inner & outer tie rods for play & report back.

Needs steering rack? Very rare occurrence on our cars. Are you loosing fluid? Are the boots dry? My guess is none of the above.

2007 shouldn't have many issues. How many miles?
 

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I've been curious about my steering rack. It's hard to tell if the boots are wet from the rack or one of the other 539847729374 leaking points under hood, but steering has gotten extremely tight and "notchy" recently.
 

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Well. that doesn't sound good. Check the fluid level & let us know.
This whole deal sounds fishy though. It would be VERY unusual to have this issue.

Try jacking the front up & turning the wheel (car off). Anything feel bad now?
 

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Ya, once when I was in Firestone getting an alignment they decided to check my battery for me, "as a courtesy". Guess what - it was determined to be bad (even though it was a OEM 2 year old battery). I watched them do the alignment and at no time did the tech check my battery. Then they told me my CV axle needed to be replaced because it was leaking. I then walked out to the car and looked right at it - it was spill-over manual transmission fluid from when I had changed the fluid. Be wary of Firestone's service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
hello everyone, I hope the holidays are going well for all.
As far as the CV joints, thankfully no clicking as of now. The boots are ripped on both sides, but I'm not sure for how long. I've found some information on replacing the boot on the internet. What's the recommended method here? I've seen some say replace the boots while some recommend against reboot since dirt and what not is in the axle by now. If all well and it's time to reboot, then what's a good site to purchase from? Chances are I can just get them at a local shop too yea?
Oh yea I saw this easy boot product on the internet http://www.hippored.com/?page_id=1344&lang=en any feedback on it? thanks again everyone.
 
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