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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, My name is Sean, I just picked up my (new to me) 1998 Red V70 T5M :) and have a quick question that I have tried searching for but can't seem to find any info.

My small issue I have is that the car, when I go to start off in 1st from a dead stop will shudder when letting the clutch out. I find it is smooth to engage once the car is going, it does it a very tiny bit when decelerating through the gears but that seems more like the RPM's building more then the same issue.

Now I'm not familiar with these cars, as I'm a VW nut, but it would seem as though perhaps a motor or torque mount could be going and so the engine is "shaking" under load at first? Maybe im reaching haha. the transmission shifts super smooth though, with no slipping of the clutch under load and no issues at all going into gear.

Thanks in advance!

Sean
 

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The mileage and the age of the clutch kit, motor mounts and flywheel is necessary before I or anyone can answer you intelligently.

Worn motor mounts can cause this
An older clutch can cause this
A worn out/burned flywheel also can cause this
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hey, thanks for the reply, sorry haha i forgot to mention the milleage. the car has 186,000miles on the dot currently. i've noticed that when I turn the car off that as it shuts down the motor will shake/vibrate at the last second as it turns off. Hence why I was thinking mounts. I grabbed the engine and tried to move it as i'm use to doing with my VR6 to check the mounts, and there is some play, the mount at the back of the engine at the top that is bolted to the firewall if you push on the sides of the mount were the circular point is, you can push that piece side to side a fair bit.

Hopefully this helps to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
of note as well, the clutch doesn't slip at any time while driving, and as soon as I get past 2nd gear, the car shifts normally.

As for age of the clutch and flywheel, im not sure, the P/O didn't do a clutch on the car, but beyond that i'm not sure.
 

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Probably needs everything
All motor mounts, a complete clutch kit and possibly a new or at least a resurfacing of the flywheel.
Good luck.
You need to start by inspecting the all 3 hard motor mounts and looking at the two hydraulic subframe mounts to at least see if they're not leaking
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok thanks, yea i've been searching around online to see what I could find, mostly all just honda guys talking about similar issues, but then again something such as this seems like it might be a pretty universal issue to happen.

can you point me in the direction of a decent place to get a clutch and flywheel as im new to volvo and not sure where to get fair pricing on parts yet, thanks!

this car has hydraulic subframe mounts? i've never heard of that :confused:

one last question, could bad mounts on the car be causing the clunking sound that I experience when going over bumps? Ive checked the tie rods/balljoints etc. as I figured they would be the likely culprit but they are all ok and the car handles great with no vibration on the road or "wandering" normally associated with those types of issues.

Thanks in advance again!

Sean
 

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The two hydraulic engine mounts are simply large cone shaped rubber mounts with hydraulic fluid in the center. One hydraulic mount is located just below the turbo and the other is just below the left (drivers) side of the intake manifold.

Then there is a few solid rubber mounts. One is located just under the crank pulley, another is just under the trans bell housing (trans torque mount) and the last is located just above the cap/rotor and connectes to the firewall.

WHAT LIES BELOW IS JUST MY FIRST HAND EXPERIENCE:

When I had a aftermarket poly firewall mount I had a hard time taking off from first in a smooth manner. I would usually get something that felt like clutch chatter when taking off in first if I didn't have the RPM's high enough. Got sick of that and replaced the poly mount with an OEM rubber mount and it is far easier to get a smooth 1st gear start with the OEM bushing installed.

When my motor mount located below the crank pulley collapsed shifting became a bit tougher and shifts were not as smooth due to excessive motor movement. Gear engagement was also tough when trying to get into 1st or R from a stand still.

I purchased my 98 V70 T5M with 139,000 miles on the original clutch,PP,Flywheel, ext. They worked fine but I replaced them with an 850R clutch, new PP and resurfaced the flywheel for good mesure and have not had an issue with this set up either.

My other 95 850 NA 5sp has not had any issues staring off from first either, its always been a smooth engagement. In fact the clutch operation was fine until it recently reached the end of its life and is now slipping and in need of a good service. Currently at 180,000 miles.


Personally I would check all motor and trans mounts before diving into the trans simply because its easier and cheaper to spot a bad mount then replace the clutch. If you do need a new clutch setup I would check with Erie Volvo as that's where I got all the stuff for my trans at a tune of $300 or so (850R clutch, PP, TOB).

Keep us posted on the progress.



OH, on that clunking sound your hearing. Have you checked your sway bar end links? If they are really bad you can have someone bounce the front end up and down while holding the sway bar endlink and if its bad you can feel it pop. However I have had bad end links that require you actually removing them to feel that they are bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Awesome reply thanks for clearing all that up and shareing your experience. I jacked the car up today to check each front wheel just to be absolutely certain that there wasn't an issue with a suspension component such as ball joints/tie rods/sway bar. No play or any sound at all coming from either side, I grabbed the wheel/tire and pulled in and out like you would to check for play in the tie rods/wheel bearing, as well as for a bad ball joint all was super tight and very well connected with no play at all! This was a source of relief for me as I was concerned for there to be a suspension issue!

So the next culprit I'm really suspect of are the mounts. When I got home from work I inspected the upper mount that connects to the firewall and noticed that you could look right straight through the mount and there was small shaving-like pieces on the inside and only appears that the mount is attached by rubber at the top of the circular shape and no where else. Not sure what they normally look like but it doesn't seem right, and the rubber appears to be starting to crack so I'm going to get a full set of Poly mounts from Eurosport Tuning near me and replace them all as it would appear they never have been.

Of note, when I push down on the front suspension I can see the engine physically shifting front to back separate from the car itself and especially at the above mentioned mount, it shifts forwards and backwards in that mount. Perhaps this simple fix may solve my issues! Im hopeful at least!

I'll keep updating this as I sort out everything.

I love this car though! she is a diamond in the rough to me, especially in the body area (needs new paint and a couple of rust spots taken care of) but otherwise for a car I was able to snag for $700 im super pleased!
 

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This will help, but these engines DO shift back and forward (which is side to side, like all engine do, this is a transverse engine, remember), it just will shift less with a new mount.
Mount has to be connected at the top and the bottom, the front and the rear always tears, it's supposed to.
If you go with all poly mounts the car wil be a vibrating fool.
Personally unless you really like that, go with OEM mounts
 

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As far as the clunking when going over bumps, it's highly likely the strut mounts. Very common. Grab the nut at the top of the strut with a wrench and wiggle it. No resistance or free range means trashed mounts. It should offer mild resistance and spring back to position quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well I want the engine to be as secure as possible, how much vibration are we talking about with this motor? I dont mind vibration but if we are talking the whole car rattleing like crazy then yea that's not what I want. Some vibration as a sacrifice for strengh is ok in my books, but I still want to keep my teeth hahaha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As far as the clunking when going over bumps, it's highly likely the strut mounts. Very common. Grab the nut at the top of the strut with a wrench and wiggle it. No resistance or free range means trashed mounts. It should offer mild resistance and spring back to position quickly.
Ok thanks! I shall check this when I get home. I went over speed bumps at work tonight first crawling over then at a walking pace to see if there was any clunking, and not a peep to be heard.
 

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Just be real careful with poly bushings, some cars vibrate more than others, regardless it WILL vibrate at idle and can be quite annoying
As for the rest of the suspension, everything needs to be looked at;
Spring seats, sway bar links, control arm bushings, and the rest
 

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With my polly top motor mount (All other mouts were replace with OEM at the same time) I had a slight increase in cabin/steering wheel vibration when stationary in N (98 T5M). Also as mentioned above trying to take off slowly (as if you were Sunday cruising not running the 1/4 mile) was difficult to do butter smooth as there was always some vibration translated through the polly mount and into the steering wheel/chassis. It wasn't a lot, but its a great deal more civil to live with now that I have the OEM rubber top motor mount installed. The trade off however is you loose the slight performance feel of the poly mount.

Along with checking your top strut mounts I would highly consider checking your sway bar end-links as they will also make a popping sound when the ball joint ends losten up after years of use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok I shall check those! Thanks for the information gents!

Sounds like perhaps I will just replace the mounts with OEM ones for now and go Poly later on. Do the V70R's of the same generation (not sure what chassis this would be referred to as?) have a slightly better OEM mount that might be worth installing VS. a normal V70 T5 one or are they the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok cool thanks. Thought i'd check as im always up for upgrading when installing new parts.

I'm going to dive in starting thursday as I'm off for 4 days from work so i'll have plenty of time to dig around and see whats going on.
 
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