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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've had a problem with the car cranking and not starting for a little while now. We need the car, and the service center rarely has loaners, and I'd rather fix it myself anyways..

Its an 06 s40 t5 awd with 35k.

Sometimes from a cold start, it cranks but doesn't start. Trying 2 or 3 times, it eventually does. It has pressure at the rail. Holding the key in position 2 for a few seconds to prime doesn't seem to help.

Now there's a cel, random misfires, and misfires on 2 and 4. I'm assuming that these problems are connected. I'm hoping. I had the mechanic next door (not a Volvo specialist) check out the basics. Pump is getting power, fuel pressure is good.. He had it overnight to check it in the morning. He changed the fuel pump relay because it was only a few bucks but that didn't do anything.

So what should I do next? I already changed the fps with the updated one and that didn't fix it either. I drop tested the battery, autozone tested it, and the mechanic next door did too.

We had super in it through these problems and I was curious what regular would do, and now it's a lot worse. Idle is rough, it feels like it's going to stall when stopping at stop signs (though it hasn't yet.) I'm going to go back to super, but I don't think it should run so poorly on regular that it's going to die... Is that a clue or some sort? The air filter is new as well. We bought it in June, and it was fine with no issues and then the starting problem started and now the misfires and power loss/near stalling behavior.

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What were your codes? And does the CEL blink? That would indicate a misfire.
 

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bad gas? did you replace the fuel filter and see if it has water? just a though... another thing, any vacuum hoses disconnected or cracked?
 

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What about the spark plugs? Are they original...maybe need replacing.
Coils, have you checked if they are getting the proper power?
 

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What about the spark plugs? Are they original...maybe need replacing.
Coils, have you checked if they are getting the proper power?
This would be my best guess. With a misfire, the cel won't flash, only when a cylinder is getting NO spark at all...a dead cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The codes are p0300, 302 and 304. It doesn't blink.

I pulled the plugs and they looked good. This had been happening for months, the no starting problem. But the misfires for the past month on and off. The near stalling is a new symptom with the regular gas, from the high traffic citco i always get gas at. She tends to get gas at Speedway, citco, and sunoco, always super.

Its my understanding that the fuel filter for this car is in the gas tank so I haven't replaced it because it's impossible to get to and its part of the pump I think.

The plugs are original but look fine. And they only have 35k on them. We bought the car and it started and ran fine, drove it from PA to long island, drove to Connecticut, into the city countless times, and then all of a sudden one morning it didn't start and took 3 tries. So I changed the fps, checked the plugs, changed the air filter. Didn't help, had the mechanic check the fuel pressure, power to the pump, etc. And then a while after that, the misfires started. And now yesterday with regular gas it has no power, and feels like it will stall at stops.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I ordered some new oe plugs with some black Friday magic so I'll hopefully get them in and eliminate them from being the source of the problem. Who knows maybe there's a problem.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok so I shouldn't work on the car at night. When I pulled the plugs it was pretty late and I wasn't paying attention I guess. She works during the day, so my only time to touch the car is the weekends or when she gets home at 7:30pm. They looked ok, not burned or anything, but I wasn't looking at the brands.

So when I went to do them today, I realized it had 3 different plugs! 1 volvo, 2 acdelco, and 2 champions......and they weren't even the same material. And, the coil packs, 1 was oem, the other 4 were sti. So I did the plugs and that fixed the rough idle. I thought hey maybe I fixed the no start issue... But we took it to the supermarket and it cranked and cranked and barely started. But it runs great once it does. We are going to order some Bosch coil packs, so who knows maybe there's the issue? I guess I'll find out. If anyone has any other ideas let me know!

The bigger question is why were there random ignition components changed in a car with 30k?! And who the hell was doing them... And what else has been "done"

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The bigger question is why were there random ignition components changed in a car with 30k?! And who the hell was doing them... And what else has been "done"
Sounds like someone was chasing the same issue. Let's see what the coils do. All the codes are misfire. I would think with all the excessive cranking you would throw another code for a crank sensor or similar if that were a problem. One step at a time, get those coils in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It ran fine for months without an issue. I looked at the car fax maintenance history and everything was done at the volvo dealer, except one repair. But the only info I can get is it was a warrentech extended warranty claim. It says "engine service", a thousand miles before we bought it. So I emailed them asking for any information on this repair. Maybe they did something else that has to be redone as well.

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Car fax reports aren't always great just so you know. You could have some "friend" do work, that would go unreported, and I've been to Indy shops that don't report repairs for car fax.

Just so you know.
 

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It's just so weird. Total hack job & there's no way it had a bad coil, much less 4 at 30K. Someone in the shop needed parts for their Volvo? Parts store only had 2 plugs in stock? It's just hard to think of any kind of rational explanation. Hopefully coils fix it & everything is in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Car fax reports aren't always great just so you know. You could have some "friend" do work, that would go unreported, and I've been to Indy shops that don't report repairs for car fax.

Just so you know.
That's entirely possible but with all the service history at volvo, no change of owner, and one warranty claim within a thousand miles of us owning it, it's more likely than not that the warranty claim has something to do with it. Of course the neighbor could have fiddled with the plugs and ordered junk parts for it, but it doesn't seem very likely.

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This sounds like my car, it would run great, but would stumble and not accelerate above 40% throttle, it had a random misfire code and it had a CYL4 misfire code repeatedly. Yet below that 40% mark it was magical, at any RPM. I replaced the plugs, coils, and rail pressure sensor, and it was like a new car.

I got lifetime warranty coils from the auto store down the road which were $300 for a set, E3 plugs which were $30 for the set, and the FPS18 from amazon which turned into a $57 genuine bosch part. I antiseized the plugs, greased the coil boots, greased the coil plugs on the top of the engine, and greased the fuel rail pressure sensor to make everything waterproof, and viola...perfectly running engine.
 

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Maybe this got resolved, but I'm guessing what pczeilon eluded to - crank position sensor. Either its that, or it could be the coolant temp sensor. Both are critical when the engine is trying to start up. Let us know if you solved the mystery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It's still cranking sometimes but not starting. I'm waiting on the coils they should get here soon, and then move on to the next thing. I've got 60psi in position 2 on the key before starting so there's fuel. The problem is that it doesn't happen every time.

Another issue it has it when I go to position 3 to start it, and 5 seconds of cranking doesn't start, and I move to position 2 to try again, it'll sometimes keep cranking and stumble to a start.

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It's still cranking sometimes but not starting. I'm waiting on the coils they should get here soon, and then move on to the next thing. I've got 60psi in position 2 on the key before starting so there's fuel. The problem is that it doesn't happen every time.

Another issue it has it when I go to position 3 to start it, and 5 seconds of cranking doesn't start, and I move to position 2 to try again, it'll sometimes keep cranking and stumble to a start.

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That sounds like perhaps the beginnings of an ignition switch. This is a fairly common issue on the early cars. If it doesn't start immediately try tapping the key in toward the dash. If any of these maneuvers work then replace the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've had so many conflicting problems. At first it was throwing codes saying there was low fuel pressure at crank, but that seemed to have gone away with the new plugs, as did the misfires.

Do you know a good tutorial on taking the dash apart to get to the ignition switch? I assume it's going to be a nightmare. The parts cheap enough to try, I've already been thinking that but was hoping the coil packs fix it since they're aftermarket and could cause electrical issues?

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There are some pics floating around. I though they were in the sticky but don't see them. It's not too bad. Remove console, etc. The crux is you need a really short torx bit & have limited space for the top screw. Don't just jump in, perhaps the coils will fix it.

Found the post but it had dead picture links. :mad:
Torx allen key, tiny bit in a gearwrench, etc.
 

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It's still cranking sometimes but not starting.
I think he's saying that the engine turns over but doesn't start. The typical ignition switch issue is that you turn the key to position III, and nothing happens (at all), right?

If the engine's turning over but not starting, and you have fuel, then it seems to be a spark issue. After the coils, try the crankshaft position sensor. It tells the CPU when to start ignition in the engine and can lead to your symptoms.
 
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