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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some help w/ my fuel gauge FIXED!!! Now the interior lighting!

Well, my 73 144 made the nearly 600 mile trek to the VCOA MidSommar meet just fine, thank you! Now that we're back home, I need to iron out some pesky issues. First on my list is the fuel gauge that isn't working. While I didn't pull the sender (yet) I ohmed it while installed (not sure if that's proper) and got 78 ohms which is about right for 3/4 tank of gas. I then disconnected the fuel sender wire from the tank and installed a 40 ohm resistor in line and secured it to ground. Gauge read 3/4 tank (should read full). To determine if it was the dash gauge or the voltage stabilizer, I put another 40 ohm resistor in line with the temp gauge and ran the lead to ground. It too read 3/4 hot (should be pegged in the red). From my reading, if the two gauges read equally in correct, one should swap the stabilizer. I did...nothing changed. The stabilizer is NOS, so I'm assuming it's good. I then swapped out the fuel gauge with an untested spare. Connected every thing up, removed the resistors and fired the car up. It was the end of the day at the shop by then and time to pull her in for the night. The temp gauge works as I would think it should...the fuel gauge is unchanged from when I began....sitting below "E". <br>I'm open to suggestions...tomorrow a.m. I can swap back in the original gauge to help eliminate the chance the second one is bad. While I have no issue pulling the sender, I don't want to do it until everything else has been eliminated; I don't have a replacement gasket on hand.<br>Any advice?<br>And...2nd issue: my instrument lights do not get power at all. I haven't really done much on this at all other than know my fuses are good and all exterior lighting is working. The only interior light that works is the glovebox. I'm thinking I have a bad/non existent ground somewhere. Any known trouble spots? Thanks in advance, guys!! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vortexmediagroup.com/images/banghead.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>Jon<br>UPDATE: Prior to pulling the sender, I tried one more thing, and felt stupid doing it. I attached a wire from the top of the sender near the bung to a known good ground. Voila! The gauge works now! Obviously, the sender is not grounding to the tank. What's even stranger is the ground is a metal screw holding the tank in! I used the screw for grounding my tail lights with success so used it a gain. Somehow the bottom side of the bung doesn't ground directly to the tank! Doesn't leak so I ain't fixing it!!<br>And...on to the lighting!!<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by swiftjustice44 at 10:09 AM 6-26-2009</i>
 

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Re: Need some help w/ my fuel gauge (swiftjustice44)

If it makes you feel any better, neither the gas gauge or the temp gauge work on the Yellow Peril either....<br>It did take me the 55 miles down there and back so I can't complain TOO much - first trip of any kind in over 2 years.<br>But I GOTTA get those ants outta the floor mat! Too many bites!<br>
 

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Re: Need some help w/ my fuel gauge (swiftjustice44)

Instrument lights - run a hot 12 volts at the main power wire junction that does not go through the dimmer/reostat. If the lights come on...<p>Fuel gauge - pull and check the sender.<p>George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you to the 2 George's! To Mr. Downs...it would be easier to tell ya what DID work on my interior...the volt gauge (overcharging!) and the temp gauge (warmish). Newly rebuilt car and fresh engine w/ less than 40 miles on it plus no gauges and 600 mile road trip equals more stress than I care for. Add in the new o.p. sender spewing oil like a lung shot deer and you have one fellow calculating TOD using mile markers. Not my preferred method of travel but will certainly be memorable for many years!! Alas, MY car no longer has any insect population...I feel so.........deprived! My bugs are of a different nature!<br>And, to Mr. Dill, thanks for the bad news!<IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> I'll start scrounging for a tank gasket today. I'll double check the dimmer for continuity but IIRC, when re-doing the bulbs earlier this year, they worked when power was supplied directly to the circuit. Time to look at schematics again:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Happy to report all is well w/ the Gecko! As reported in the amended first post, the gas gauge isworking now and today I was able to check the dimmer and it is indeed history so I jumpered the wires so they will temporarily be on bright only. Quite an improvement from a week ago!<br>Of course, after getting this all cleared up...now the 36 years of petrified grease finally broke loose. My left inner tie rod is shot!<br>I can't believe it made the trip to Tulsa...we had checked the entire front end but they were tight before the trip. Nice to discover it at the shop rather than in the boonies!!
 

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Re: (swiftjustice44)

When you rewire the new dimmer consider using it to control ALL interior lighting.<p>George Dill
 

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Re: (swiftjustice44)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>swiftjustice44</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">George...as my dimmer's never worked...what's left after the overhead light and glove box lamp to wire in?<br>Jon</TD></TR></TABLE><p>This will not be easy to set up but wouldn't it be cool to be able to dim that too-bright high-beam indicator light?<p>George Dill
 

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Re: (swiftjustice44)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>swiftjustice44</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL, w/ no dashlights, that hi beam light was like a laser! I could almost read the map by it...almost, but not quite!!</TD></TR></TABLE><p>10-4 - and what I do (did) was hang on to that throw-away flat behind-the-spectacles sun blocking plastic lens given as a freebie after an eye exam.<p>Cut that sucker to fit and stand it up on the dash in front of the highbeam "laser" - whoooala - just "barley" visible.<p>What repairs you got coming up next?<p>George Dill
 

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Re: Need some help w/ my fuel gauge FIXED!!! Now the interior lighting! (swiftjustice44)

Jon!<br>I had that same ground problem on a 122 wagon years ago. Had forgotten it but solved it the same way you did (great minds......)<br>I guess between the caulking and the rubber gas lines, etc...<br>I'll check that out on mine too!<br>Thanks!<br>Just got AC installed in my garage today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was just reading "The Saga of Opas" so I know you know 140's. After the tie rod replacement tomorrow, I'll start working on re-installing the a/c compressor. My brother-in-law worked on 122's and 140's/a64's when they were new and said they would run hot even new. On the way to Tulsa, mine ran hot...as long as I ran 60-65 mph it wasn't bad. Run 70+ and watch the needle edge towards the red. Running the fan on high cool dropped it down to 3/4's; running it on hot dropped it to below "mid N". Original radiator but re-cored, rodded out and resoldered. New lower thermostat (have checked it in hot water w/ thermo...working fine) new water pump, head and block coolant passages both wire brushed before assembly. Head gasket properly torqued 3 times; upon assembly, after rocker assembly installed, and after 20 minutes of run time. Valves readjusted at this time also. Fuel mixture was set on the rich side to assure no burned valves during break-in. I really hate to go with a non-o.e. radiator but may have to. If the car runs this warm on the highway when not running the a/c it goes to show that it's out of the question to usethe a/c. Did the 164 use the same radiator? Surely there is a quick fix, right? Any one tried "Water Wetter" cooling products? Had I known at the onset that 140's were prone t heat issues (at least in Texas) I would have spent money on an aluminum racing radiator and painted it flat black. As it is, apparently I spent $200 to resurrect an inadequate radiator. Summit has their house brand for $159! I feel ill!!<br>On the bright side, I feel certain the dwell is far short of where it should be and I can hope the lack of power made the engine work harder and produce more heat. Is this possible?<BR><BR>
<i>Modified by swiftjustice44 at 9:44 PM 6-28-2009</i>
 

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Re: Need some help w/ my fuel gauge FIXED!!! Now the interior lighting! (Walrus3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Walrus3</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just got AC installed in my garage today.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>Pics, please - and details on the pulleys and brackets.<p>Thanks!<p>George Dill
 

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Re: Need some help w/ my fuel gauge FIXED!!! Now the interior lighting! (gdill2)

George -<br>It is a window air conditioner - no pulleys and few brackets.<p>Jon -<p>If your ignition is retarded your engine will run really hot. Should have at least 15° BTDC advance. I had a lot of problems with this in Panama.<br>Not sure how it happened (although all the distributors I had were pretty worn and hard to keep up to proper dwell angle) but it would get retarded over time and lose power and run hot.
 

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Re: (swiftjustice44)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>swiftjustice44</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the way to Tulsa, mine ran hot... as long as I ran 60-65 mph it wasn't bad. Run 70+ and watch the needle edge towards the red. Running the fan on high cool dropped it down to 3/4's; running it on hot dropped it to below "mid N"... I feel certain the dwell is far short of where it should be and I can hope the lack of power made the engine work harder and produce more heat.</TD></TR></TABLE><p><br>Got any Tulsa pics?<p>The thermostat temperature rating has no affect on a hot-running engine.<p>If the radiator is flowing freely, has no leaks, the water pump is OK, ALL coolant hoses perfect and no issues with the heater control valve then the cooling system is adequate for a B20 with AC in Texas.<p>Water Wetter is OK but will have very little cooling affect in a fully functioning cooling system.<p>The engine timing is critical when running low-octane gas with high temps generated in the combustion chambers.<p>This includes the dwell setting/points gap (if applicable), any timing adjustment made by the engine using vacuum and/or centrepidal weights internal to the distributor and the proper condenser/capacitor application in/at the distributor if used.<p>Valve lash should be set to the "lowest clearance" to maximize lift of both intake and exhaust valves.<p>Carbs and/or fuel injection settings should be closer to rich than lean but not so rich as to "stink" and/or dribble raw gas out the exhaust pipe(s).<p>Try this - get rolling down a level road away from the maddening crowd where you can cruise along alone at about 60mph in high/OD with AC "ON" (if applicable).<p>Watch the temp gauge - does it hold steady (even if near "HOT") or does it move around from hot to not-so-hot with quick movements?<p>BTW, is the temp gauge electric?<p>Let's say the gauge is OK and holds steady at 60mph - now activate the heater control valve and direct the hot air to your feet and the defrost (no fan on).<p>The temp gauge should drop immediately then begin to rise again as you proceed.<p>If the gauge has other behavior then the gauge and/or sender could be faulty or have a bad ground/power supply.<p>Now that your feet and face are cooking close off the heat. The temp gauge should move just a little toward hot.<p>What radiator fan setup are you running? Fan clutch? Flex fan?<p>Are you ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the mark on the cam timing gear aligns with the mark on the crank gear?<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I know that the thermostat has no bearing on engine temp once it opens...only mentioned it so people would know I'd already checked that it works. I'm running 93 octane, one flat towards rich of nominal on the H6's. Flex fan, valves adjusted to the tight side of Volvo's recomendations. The cooling system is in superb condition; new hoses, water pump, re-cored and rodded radiator, fresh coolant. The timing was at 15 degrees and yup, I even managed to align the crank pulley w/ the timing gear. The temp sender is new, although I swapped in the old one to compare readings. The gauge reads the way you describe it should, George. I had plenty of time to experiment coming home from Tulsa. It never got into the red and at 60 mph it was merely above N. 65-70 is when it would climb and the blower came on to dissipate some of the heat! I didn't let the needle get within 1/8 inch of the red, I've had cars in the past that seemed to reach the point of no return...if you let them heat up above a certain point, no amount of blowers running would drop the needle. The only recourse was to pull off and idle 'em down while gently spraying the radiator with water. I didn't want my nice new rebuild getting that hot on its maiden voyage. Perhaps, if I'd waited a wee bit the needle would have stabilized at a high but tolerable point. Didn't want to risk it. When I install the compressor and dryer this week or next...there will be no way on earth this motor will stay cool.
 

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Re: (swiftjustice44)

I wonder if what the gauge shows is what the temp really is....<br>I think I would get it good and hot and put a thermometer in it to make sure that what you are seeing is what you are getting.<br>Also - are you running a fan shroud? It can make a big difference especially at low speeds.<br>Is your advance mechanism giving you good advance? You want max advance to be about 35-37 degrees.<br>15 initial may not be quite enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (Walrus3)

I have one of those handy dandy non-contact thermometers with the laser guide. When I hold it roughly an inch from the sender it has never been more than 180. Generally a little lower. As to whether I have a fan shroud; yes, I do.<br>Today, I converted the distributor to electronic with an Allison optical points kit. The car runs much smoother; I also bumped the timing up to 20 degrees BTDC at idle. That's where Rhys had told me to set it when I asked him some time ago as to how he set his motors up. The factory setting is 10 BTDC...I had split the difference for the trip. Didn't want to cough a new motor. I re-set the richness and upped the idle a bit. Synched the carbs and topped up all the fluids. I'll drive it the rest of te weeks like this and see how it does. On the way home it was noticeably peppier...still not what I was expecting. Has lots of torque, not as much acceleration as I would have liked. Perhaps my 400 hp 740 V8 and 300hp thurbo 245 have spoiled me but I think this B20 should be in the 150-155hp range but it ain't there yet! More tuning to be done...probably get it dialed in 2 weeks before re-tuning it for cool weather!!<br><IMG SRC="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/swiftjustice44/144%20Project/51209a1.jpg" BORDER="0"><p><IMG SRC="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/swiftjustice44/144%20Project/PICT0017-2.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>This is what she looked like in January of this year...<br><IMG SRC="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/swiftjustice44/PICT0001-20-2.jpg" BORDER="0"><br>And, midway through June...<br><IMG SRC="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/swiftjustice44/144%20Project/PICT0001-26.jpg" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (swiftjustice44)

With the car idling warm, all accessories "OFF" and the engine setup for normal running hook up a timing light and watch the mark move around as you manually rev the engine as if driving.<p>Look for abrupt changes which could mean advance/retard problems.<p>With the Allison setup you can run much wider plug gaps and more advanced initial timing enhanced by 93+ octane gas.<p>That vacuum line from the intake manifold to that white 4-balled thingy - was there originally a one-way vacuum valve in-line?<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm really liking the electronic ignition! So, I can run a wider gap w/ a stock coil? And, there is a check valve on the vacuum bottle now!<br>Here's a picture of my handy dandy, non-contact thermometer...<br><IMG SRC="http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/swiftjustice44/PICT0001-27.jpg" BORDER="0"><br>Saves hands from the occasional burn!
 
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