SwedeSpeed - Volvo Performance Forum banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got a 1974 164e (fuel injected) and it runs great, but still has a few issues.

I guess the first issue that I want to tackle is the fact that the engine cuts out when I go around left turns. Any ideas on what's causing that? It has a new fuel pump and lines- I believe it has relatively new injectors, but I haven't inspected them yet. Where should I start?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
I recently got a 1974 164e (fuel injected) and it runs great, but still has a few issues.

I guess the first issue that I want to tackle is the fact that the engine cuts out when I go around left turns. Any ideas on what's causing that? It has a new fuel pump and lines- I believe it has relatively new injectors, but I haven't inspected them yet. Where should I start?
Welcome to Swedespeed, David.

The engine cutout on left turns implies failed motor/trans mounts and/or bare wires in the engine wiring harness.

Where did you get the car?

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the Welcome!

I traded my '69 Beetle for it to someone locally. They had a lot of work done to it so they could give it to their daughter, but she wanted a Beetle instead. I had a lot of reliability issues with the 1600 in my Beetle so I traded hoping that this 164 would be better. My dad had an older Volvo when I was a kid and he was no mechanic, but was able to work on it himself so I was hoping this would be the same for me.

So far the jury is still out on whether or not this trade was a good decision. I know there are several disconnected wires and I don't yet know what they are for. I am hesitant to hook anything back up because I think they had disconnected things in order to get them to work better, if that's possible. (I reconnected a wire cluster under the dash and it turned out to be connected to the seatbelt buzzer... which buzzes nonstop!) I'll post pics in a sec. Thanks for the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Okay, here are the pics...

If you can't read what it says I wrote it here-> "The three blue circles represent areas that I have found disconnected wires. I know where #1, and #3 got, but I do not know what #2 connects to. It is a yellow wire. #3 is for the bonnet light, But I don't know what the function is of the connection points for the two disconnected wires in #1. It looks like a black plastic valve coming from the air cleaner?" I have included a picture of the engine and disconnected wire #2 as it is now.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7845865624/in/photostream
You can check out more pics of my 164 here on my flickr--> http://www.flickr.com/photos/m00se-lee/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,393 Posts
Things that might be disconnected: Brake junction imbalance alarm (H-shaped brass block on left inner fender with lots of brake lines connected to it), air conditioner fast idle (on intake manifold, small solenoid air bleed), underhood lamp (I notice the lens is painted maroon). If I could look at the car I might be able to identify others. Where are you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I'm m00se's son, and I know the under hood light has a loose wire, as does the windshield washer pump. There are two detached wires near a little black cylindrical valve-like thing by the intake manifold. I don't know which way the wires go or what order to attach them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
The lamp is one thing for certain. I'll see if I can locate the other parts you refer to. After looking at it with MORTUNDEAD (my son) it looks like the other wires do go to the A/C and the washer motor, the fast idle and... I think that it it. I sure wish I had the guide for it, but I can't look for it till next month. In the meantime, maybe I can start reconnecting things and see what I can sort out. I think that's it for what's disconnected under the hood (as far as I can see anyway). I seem to have several electrical issues. Besides the ones that I have mentioned under the hood: the dash lights and gauges intermittently work, I had to rig a 3-position switch into my turn signal because the switch broke so I have a dangling wire for my bright switch, I still have the seatbelt buzzer issue (the buzzer goes non-stop when plugged in), and it seems to have a good deal of difficulty starting. However, when it does start it seems to run very well as long as I don't make any left turns!

Oh, yeah- I'm in Fresno, CA. Central California...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
Here is the wiring diagram for your 164...

http://www.164club.se/service/el75.jpg

...and the associated components list...

http://www.164club.se/service/el75-text.jpg

These are for 1975 but given your '74 has been "modified" you will need to trace/test all wiring, grounds, fuses and connections/junctions to fix the electrical problems.

Does the motor flop around when goosing the throttle by hand?

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
The motor moves no more than on a normal car, I checked it out. Seems to be all okay, no excessive vibrations from it or clunks like our vw had when it busted it's trans mount. I'm pretty sure all of the cars electrical gremlins are linked somehow
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
Confirm that the battery is good then inspect/clean the terminals and cables to include checking for possible hidden breaks in the cables (inside the insulation) at the junctions/crimps. Be sure the battery is stable in the box.

Go through all the fuses and clean/replace/repair as needed. Check every relay and electrical component for clean connections and continuity.

Inspect the entire engine wiring harness for bare wires and/or deteriorated connections.

Do y'all have a volt/ohm test meter?

George Dill
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I looked over the electrics under the hood earlier. I found that one of the yellow wires (in the picture they are #2) one has a green stripe on it and the connector has been cut off so I can't be sure where it goes,but I think it goes to the washer fluid pump which is disconnected. The other wire is plain yellow and when I plugged it into an open connector below it (a metal junction with some metal lines coming out of it) the "brake failure" light comes on on the dash. I disconnected it again. While searching I found another loose wire behind the air cleaner. It's pretty long, but it's by itself and I don't know where it goes and it is pretty chewed up and brittle. I'll have to root around some to see if I can figure out where it goes. I still have to check out he dash wires- I have no idea what's going on in there. Thanks for the diagrams, we'll put them to good use! We ran out of gas this morning because our dash electrics are rarely working. We had no idea how much gas we had left in the tank. I'd like to think that solves the engine cutting out issue, but it nearly died at a stopsign late with a full tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,393 Posts
You plugged the yellow wire to the right place but did not reset the brake failure alarm. To do this you need a 9/16" box wrench and a big crescent wrench. Hold the H-shaped brass block with the crescent wrench (tightly) and unscrew the switch you connected the wire to. It may be pretty tight, so you use the crescent wrench to keep from bending the mounting strap. When you get the switch out, look down in the hole. You should see a shiny item with a line across it as shown in this pic:
<img src='http://dmz9xfeb9gm65.cloudfront.net/3333.jpg'/>
But if the switch is illuminating the brake failure light, it is probably in this position:
<img src='http://dmz9xfeb9gm65.cloudfront.net/3334.jpg'/>
It may return by itself once you take the switch out. A few pumps on the brake may help.
If it stays to one side it means that there is a pressure imbalance between the two halves of your dual braking system, possibly because of a leak, a low brake fluid incident or some other unknown issue.
If you reset it and it sets (turns on the brake failure light) again, your brakes need attention.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
After a very thorough inspection, I discovered that the passenger-side motor mount needs replacing. Is this a difficult job?
No - but be careful as the motor is very heavy.

Best to replace all mounts while the engine is jacked up.

When crawling under the car to swap the trans mount SAFETY is of the most importance.

With the car jacked up and fully supported loosen all retainers on all old mounts then brace the engine from underneath (not on the oil pan) then lower the car slightly to take the tension of the mounts.

Each mount will require various up/down movements for removal/install depending on its location and amount of deterioration.

While under the car check all wiring and suspension stuff for problems.

Where are you planning to get parts?

George Dill
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,953 Posts
I read somewhere that the fuel pump fuse can get corroded and cause problems. Where is this fuse?
Once the download is finished on this...

http://www.164club.se/service/1054.pdf

...PLEASE SAVE A COPY on your system then go to Page 53.

Fuse #7 (8 amp) controls power to the fuel pump but your car has been "modified" so anything...

The fuse box is far-left under the dash behind a pop-off panel.

Another source is linked in this thread...

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1350322&show_all=1

George Dill
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top