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Discussion Starter · #461 ·
So the V50 developed a minor oil leak that made itself especially prominent after boosting pretty hard. Turns out it was the seal on the bottom of the turbo oil return line... or more like a complete lack of seal. The line could wiggle around and there was no old or burnt up seal to remove. Pretty easy fix and I replaced the upper oil return line gasket as well.

I also had a belt squeak, which used to only occur for a few seconds on a cold start, but it became a constant thing. After a few weeks of troubleshooting, I discovered it was the tensioner for the alternator belt. It was holding tension just fine, but the wheel itself would squeak as I spun it. So I put on new serpentine belts and a new alternator belt tensioner this morning.

These successful maintenance items have motivated me to finish up a few more little projects on this car. More to come in the next few days. :)
 

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Did you have to take the axle out to get to the seal? Also, did you replace the oil pickup seal at the same time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #463 ·
Did you have to take the axle out to get to the seal? Also, did you replace the oil pickup seal at the same time?
I did not remove the axle, but that would have made it super easy. Though, I had no problem getting a wrench up there once I removed the charge pipe and the coupler connecting to the turbo. It was about a 30 minute job with capturing video/pictures along the way.

What is the pickup seal? The only things I replaced were the oil return line seal feeding into the oil pan and the gasket that sits between the line and the turbo. That upper gasket was still nice and clean, but worth replacing since I had the oil return line out.
 

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I did not remove the axle, but that would have made it super easy. Though, I had no problem getting a wrench up there once I removed the charge pipe and the coupler connecting to the turbo. It was about a 30 minute job with capturing video/pictures along the way.

What is the pickup seal? The only things I replaced were the oil return line seal feeding into the oil pan and the gasket that sits between the line and the turbo. That upper gasket was still nice and clean, but worth replacing since I had the oil return line out.
Again with the magic hands. There was a writeup done by another SS member that used a lot of expletives in describing this job. Having taken that gasket out before, I'd agree it was a pain. Much easier with the axle out, otherwise I have no idea how to get the return line ("pickup" - sorry wrong term) gasket in. I mean, you have to take that line out of the oil pan and replace the seal at the same time as the upper gasket; otherwise, you'll get a leak at some point. That's what happened to me anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #465 ·
Again with the magic hands. There was a writeup done by another SS member that used a lot of expletives in describing this job. Having taken that gasket out before, I'd agree it was a pain. Much easier with the axle out, otherwise I have no idea how to get the return line ("pickup" - sorry wrong term) gasket in. I mean, you have to take that line out of the oil pan and replace the seal at the same time as the upper gasket; otherwise, you'll get a leak at some point. That's what happened to me anyways.
Yep, both seal and gasket replaced. When I did it, I put the lower seal in, fit the line in place, then just slid the upper gasket in between the line and the turbo. The gap was just wide enough to let the gasket slide in, making it easily doable (for me ;)).
 

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Discussion Starter · #466 ·
I really need to get a new lapel mic...


Refinished wheels, I think black looks much better on arctic camo.

 

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So no sanding before or clear coat after and they came out that glossy? niice
 

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Discussion Starter · #469 ·
So no sanding before or clear coat after and they came out that glossy? niice
Yep! That's the benefit of an appliance epoxy. It's design to adhere straight to your fridge or stove, filling small imperfections, and giving a durable and glossy finish.

On my C30, I had a tire shop's mounting machine skip off the track and leave a deep scratch across the surface of my wheel. They didn't charge me for it and I was able to completely touch it up with just one more coat of paint. So in the off chance something does happen to the finish, it's easily covered up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
Almost every show where the V50 and C30 are parked together, I hear someone say "I bet these guys on brothers!" after seeing the name decals.
That won't be mistaken anymore.

 

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Discussion Starter · #474 ·

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Discussion Starter · #476 · (Edited)
"Real" AWD Upgrade - Improved Power Split - Gen 3 Haldex

We have successfully swapped a 3rd generation Haldex controller into our V50 and completely transformed how it drives. Launching off the line is insane with power going to the rear wheels immediately and the car now behaves like a true AWD vehicle. Further discussion here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...AWD-Upgrade-Improved-Power-Split-Gen-3-Haldex

While it's still no Evo or STI, this makes the V50 feel very similar to the Focus RS and it is rather easy to kick out the back end and hold a 4 wheel drift.

There is most definitely an improved front/rear power split. You can actually feel the car pushing you like a RWD, rather than predominantly pulling you like a FWD.
Aside from how the car drives, does anyone know of a cheap or free way to determine the new power split? I'm not looking to spend the money to put this car on a dyno.





The stock gen2 Haldex on our cars is a reactive system with a 70/30 power split.
The gen3 Haldex on the V8 XC90 (aka "Instant Traction") is a proactive system with a 60/40 power split, so the rear wheels are ready to go almost immediately like a real AWD vehicle.

All first generation V8 XC90s and some 3.2L XC90s use the gen3 Haldex controller.
Confirmed Haldex part numbers are: 5Wp33504-01, 5Wp22228-02, 5Wp33504-03, or 5Wp22228-04
Volvo part number is: 36001160

You will need to swap the DEM (differential electronic module), solenoid, and pressure sensor. It takes about 5 minutes and only 2 screws. It's a plug and play upgrade with no software required.





Important Notes:

Just because the back end can kick out so effortlessly does not make this a drift mode like the new RS. Considering the 3 piece drive shaft and tiny rear axles, I would highly discourage attempting to build a drift mode for this car with stock parts.

While this swap is successfully working, with no warning lights or errors, on a 2009 with DSTC and on my 2006 with no traction control. We cannot yet confirm this will flawlessly work on all P1 Volvos.

The real testing begins now, as we determine how this effects the fuel economy and how the rear differential holds up with the added power.

As a full disclaimer, the handling characteristics of the car will be transformed from an easy driving AWD Volvo to a rather insane AWD system. While the car is a lot more fun to drive and actually feels like a sports car, you will have to completely relearn how to drive the car. Throttle control is key, as simply mashing the gas pedal can easily make the back wheels spin.

@MooseTech gets full credit for finding this discovery in the process of successfully building the worlds first AWD C30. More details about that here: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showth...legal-and-consumer-owned-C30-AWD-in-the-world
 

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We have successfully swapped a 3rd generation Haldex controller into our V50 and completely transformed how it drives. Launching off the line is insane with power going to the rear wheels immediately and the car now behaves like a true AWD vehicle.
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You sir have made my day!

I've been looking for something to adjust the split for some time and you have come up with a really interesting and simple solution. Fingers crossed that the car holds together and copes with the increased power to the rear end. Do you think there would be a problem plugging this intoa manual V50 since the donor vehicle is auto only?

I'll be watching for your further updates in due course!
 

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Discussion Starter · #478 ·
You sir have made my day!

I've been looking for something to adjust the split for some time and you have come up with a really interesting and simple solution. Fingers crossed that the car holds together and copes with the increased power to the rear end. Do you think there would be a problem plugging this intoa manual V50 since the donor vehicle is auto only?

I'll be watching for your further updates in due course!
My V50 is manual and the other 2009 is also manual. So no problems there. I'm actually more curious how an automatic would handle this swap, since there's a torque limiter in 1st and 2nd gear. It might not make the conversion as pronounced.

That being said, I'll be sure to keep the community updated if anything goes wrong.
As I mentioned, it's still no Subaru. But this is a whole lot more fun than your typical AWD P1 Volvo and there's definitely more power going to the back wheels.
 

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My V50 is manual and the other 2009 is also manual. So no problems there. I'm actually more curious how an automatic would handle this swap, since there's a torque limiter in 1st and 2nd gear. It might not make the conversion as pronounced.

That being said, I'll be sure to keep the community updated if anything goes wrong.
As I mentioned, it's still no Subaru. But this is a whole lot more fun than your typical AWD P1 Volvo and there's definitely more power going to the back wheels.
Just bought the module for my '09 V50 geartronic, hoping torque limiter won't impede it too much. I'll update when I get it all said and done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #480 ·
Just bought the module for my '09 V50 geartronic, hoping torque limiter won't impede it too much. I'll update when I get it all said and done!
Awesome! I'm excited to hear more people's opinions on this. The two cars that have this module installed are definitely driving differently than normal AWD P1s.
 
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