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Discussion Starter · #301 ·
E-bay Pedals

Installation was a lot harder than I anticipated.

Here's a simple fix-it tip if you're installing these pedals too.

Brake pedal:
1. Remove the rubber pad on the brake pedal.
2. Line it up with the new pedal and drill holes for the screws.



3. Cut away the excess rubber so the washers will fit in place.
4. Tighten all the screws (make sure not to over tighten or else you may tear the rubber pad).



5. Cut the tips off of the screws.



6. Wrestle with the pedal to get it back in place on the car.

Gas pedal notes:
The holes that you need to drill are just outside of the existing grooves in the plastic pedal. What I found to be easiest was to drill straight into the grooves, then angle the drill to widen the holes until the pedal cover would be centered on the gas pedal. If this is confusing, you'll understand what I'm talking about as you're installing your own.

The Dead pedal screws right into place.

Review:
I'm quite pleased with the quality and appearance of these pedals, especially for the cost; much cheaper than anything else on the market for our cars. The "almost Volvo font" looks identical to Volvo's font and the pedal shapes are a perfect match to the factory pedals. The rubber grips are also quite grippy and well attached.

My only complaint is that the mounting hardware was insufficient for the brake pedal and had to be modified, and the gas pedal was a slightly more curved than the stock pedals (though it was easily bent into the necessary shape).

I guess the only true negative is that the dead pedal rubber grips are not set on an even grid, they're kind of randomly spaced.

(Please ignore the dirty carpet and over exposed phone pic, I'll take a better picture after I vacuum up the drilled out scraps)
 

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looks good MNIWT!
 

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Those look factory just the theme I am shooting for. I had to really stare for awhile at the dead pedal to understand what you were saying about the spacing on the rubber grips so it doesn't really stand out that much because the eye focus's on the grips in the center which are centered properly. Stoked for mine to get here.
 

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I'm not sure if I like it or dislike it. I think I'm bothered by the logos...
What are those? laser cuts? silk screened? something else? I would want to remove either the one on the pedals or the one on the left foot rest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #306 ·
What are those? laser cuts? silk screened? something else? I would want to remove either the one on the pedals or the one on the left foot rest.
The logos are laser cut. It is a lot of "Volvo" text in one area, but the pedal design can't be beat for the price.
 

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Ha snap! I know what you're saying but I'm such a pain with these kinds of details I don't think I could live with it :facepalm:

The pedals look nice though . . . I would have done it if it wasn't for those logos.
Does it add height to the pedals or simply replaces the OE rubber?
 

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Discussion Starter · #308 ·
Ha snap! I know what you're saying but I'm such a pain with these kinds of details I don't think I could live with it :facepalm:
Hey, that's why I really respect your car, the mods you've done, and your opinion. I'm a little OCD, so things have to be perfect (to my standards) in the end. I understand where you're coming from ;)

Does it add height to the pedals or simply replaces the OE rubber?
Adds 3-4mm, but the R-design pedals add a little height as well.

 

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Hey, that's why I really respect your car, the mods you've done, and your opinion.
Thanks man, that hit the spot ;)

I'm a little OCD
Trust me! who's not at some level or on something? OCD is just being human.
Ever walk over concrete side walk panels and try to match your foot step to its spacing. Most won't say they do it sometime but it's a very common thing to do :D

Adds 3-4mm, but the R-design pedals add a little height as well.
I guess that's not necessarily bad. It brings the pedal closer to you which allows a few mm to seat comfortably in the seat... ha ha
 

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Where did you pick these up? And are they making them for the M66 cars? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #311 ·
Ever walk over concrete side walk panels and try to match your foot step to its spacing. Most won't say they do it sometime but it's a very common thing to do :D
Every time I do! I also count stairs and continuously make random objects sit flush with one another.

Where did you pick these up? And are they making them for the M66 cars? :)
They're e-bay pedals; made, sold, and shipped from China. I don't know if the store has a manual set or not, I do know that SwedeSpeeders bought them out of their stock for automatic cars though.
 

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Looks like no joy for the row-your-own boxes.. oh well.

I've done good so far with not modding this thing. Minus the K&N air fiter. But that's not a mod. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #313 ·
choc101 said:
In the meantime I went ahead and ordered the VOLVO badge lettering and have purchased some cans of that plasti-dip so I can start messing around with it. Any tips on installing and how to best use that stuff would be appreciated. For example, is plati-dip what you used to color you lettering on the rear or was that a paint? In going through your progression thread it's hard to tell when you use a paint or the dip. The silver touch inside is a nice touch too so I'd like to maybe steal some of that if I can figure out how to do it. I've also been trying to figure out the best way to smoke out my lights and I've come across some stuff on the web (ever heard of HeadLightArmor) that could help me out.
I see your confusing with the blacking out of the letters. The first time I blacked them out using black spray paint, which lasted for a while but eventually started to look cheap. I then plasti-dipped my letters and haven't had to touch them up since! In my case, I didn't order the newer style letters, I simply removed my older letters and spaced them out (5" between each letter (measuring from the center of each letter)). Note that the newer letters are slightly larger than the older style letters; the bigger letters look better spaced out.
You can either plasti-dip the letters on the car or take all the letters off and plasti-dip them before reapplying them. As far as application goes, I ran a piece of masking tape across the back of the car to give myself a level base line. I then marked where the center was and began reapplying my letters with 3M high bond foam double stick tape.

Check my how-to videos thread (in my sig) to see removal of many of the interior parts. Then just prime and paint with whatever color you want.

I've heard of headlight armor, but I'm not really familiar with what it is. If you want to darken the headlights, the best thing to do would be to paint the internal components or to apply a smoke vinyl over the outside of the headlight lenses. Using tint spray on headlights is extremely likely to chip and will undoubtedly decrease your light output.

As for the mirror turn signals and taillights, I used Rustoleum tint spray with a few layers of duplicolor clear on top. I haven't taken a picture of it, but I recently waxed/polished my taillights so they shine like the factory finish, only a shade darker than brilliant-Volvo-red.
 

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I see your confusing with the blacking out of the letters. The first time I blacked them out using black spray paint, which lasted for a while but eventually started to look cheap. I then plasti-dipped my letters and haven't had to touch them up since! In my case, I didn't order the newer style letters, I simply removed my older letters and spaced them out (5" between each letter (measuring from the center of each letter)). Note that the newer letters are slightly larger than the older style letters; the bigger letters look better spaced out.
You can either plasti-dip the letters on the car or take all the letters off and plasti-dip them before reapplying them. As far as application goes, I ran a piece of masking tape across the back of the car to give myself a level base line. I then marked where the center was and began reapplying my letters with 3M high bond foam double stick tape.

Check my how-to videos thread (in my sig) to see removal of many of the interior parts. Then just prime and paint with whatever color you want.

I've heard of headlight armor, but I'm not really familiar with what it is. If you want to darken the headlights, the best thing to do would be to paint the internal components or to apply a smoke vinyl over the outside of the headlight lenses. Using tint spray on headlights is extremely likely to chip and will undoubtedly decrease your light output.

As for the mirror turn signals and taillights, I used Rustoleum tint spray with a few layers of duplicolor clear on top. I haven't taken a picture of it, but I recently waxed/polished my taillights so they shine like the factory finish, only a shade darker than brilliant-Volvo-red.
Thanks...let me process some of this stuff and I'll let you know if I have any questions with anything. You've been very helpful. :D
 

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I think it looks good but I would stop above the grille and keep the front clean
 

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Too rice-y? Too rally? Thoughts?

i'm all for trying it. plasti-dipping it yourself? if you hate it, the stuff comes off pretty easy so i'm told?
it does make me want to race you though.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #318 ·
i'm all for trying it. plasti-dipping it yourself? if you hate it, the stuff comes off pretty easy so i'm told?
it does make me want to race you though.....
If I did do this, I would dip it myself. I'm pretty good with a rattle can and I have experience with plasti-dip.

However, I've decided that this wouldn't go with the clean look I'm trying to keep and I'd probably regret it after a month or so of living with it. It sure is fun, but I'll save my stripes dream for when I own a hatch back. Though... I may still try something like this for CTD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #319 ·
New Elevate TCV and cat.



I also got my new light switch today; back to black!



Now I have a question for everyone... I know that a Stage 0 is basically getting the car back into perfect shape, as if it were a brand new car. But I'm confused as to how you define the other "stages" of a "tune." When people say they have a "polestar stage 2 tune" or something similar, does that mean they have polestar software tune with all the general "stage 2" parts? Do people say they're at a "stage __ tune" without having a software modification?

I saw this write up, but I'm still a little confused for how we define and identify these things in the Volvo world.
 

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Where does the cat go? How much power?

I believe the stages are per the tune. This is an example but to get stage 2 tune you need to have down pipe bla bla bla etc. Then get stage 2. So I guess we have stage 0 because the car is factory and now tune. Stage 1 will be tune with stage 0 combined.
 
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