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Testing out the new mic before next month's P1 sound test. I need to lower the gain a little, picking up a bit too much ambient noise, and the high notes in 1st sound kind of glitchy.


Leaving my mark for those at CTD6 to find. :D
It's sad that I know EXACTLY where that is... I've camped at the campsite on the other side of the river countless times in the last 15 years :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #442 ·
I always use my light bar or the fully exposed bi-xenon bulb for my "brights," so I replaced my high beam bulbs with projector LED bulbs and wired them up as the city lights.

Top Left: How the bulb looks in the assembly.
Top Right: The projector LED bulb with two additional LED rings and reflective bands.
Bottom Left: Parking lights on.
Bottom Right: How well JUST the parking lights illuminate the road.


https://goo.gl/photos/AMhJGhuBnbYFcVt99
 

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Discussion Starter · #445 ·
Got a Black Box G1W dash cam, because I have way too many "fishing stories" from my drives and now I'll finally have proof. I am very impressed with the wide angle video quality of this thing! 32GB memory card provides over 6 hours of looping video. Automatically turns on and off with the car and also has a sensor to turn on if it detects a hit when the car is parked.



Built the mount as an extension off my radar detector bracket which remains solid while driving.

 

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Discussion Starter · #446 ·
When I installed my Sparco seat, I relocated the airbag where it is out of the way and would not do any damage if deployed.
I'm not sure how, but the electrical clip going into the airbag broke. This triggered an airbag warning. I was able to repair it with super glue and it was fine for about 3 months, but it broke again. Rather than messing around with it further, I copied many others and went for resistors instead.

Couldn't find a low watt 2ohm resistor, so I got five 10ohm 1/4 watt resistors. After clearing the codes, the resistors prevent the airbag message and warning light.
Some people reported they still had an "airbag service" message upon start up (which clears with pressing the messages button) but I don't have anything. :D

A picture of the car right now...

 

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Discussion Starter · #447 ·
Even with the Federal Summer "Racing" tires, no problem driving around on the ice cover roads.


Thankfully avoided being hit by this flying 2x4!

 

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Wow, scary stuff Michael! Some summer tires are surprisingly good on snow and ice, I had a set of General Exclaims and they were surprisingly sticky even on few inch of snow. Probably the type of rubber compound that makes it a better. Do the general public in Georgia mount all-season (at the very least?) tires?
 

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Discussion Starter · #449 ·
Do the general public in Georgia mount winter tires?
No one here does. The snow/ice was only present for 1.5 days. It was 70°F the day after.

It usually snows 1 or 2 times a year here, and I'm in the north Georgia mountains. But it usually melts and is completely gone by the next day. Only the major roads get treated, so most schools/businesses close and people just stay home for the day.

The thing people fail to realize, when it snows here, it immediately melts and then turns to ice on the roads. So even the most confident 4x4 northern drivers can find themselves stuck. It might be a joke that everything closes at the threat of 1" of snow, but in a state really doesn't have any winter preparation, the roads become very dangerous.
 

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It might be a joke that everything closes at the threat of 1" of snow, but in a state really doesn't have any winter preparation, the roads become very dangerous.
I can imagine! I mean here in Canada, we have the heavy equipment and the prepared stock to salt the roads because we're so used to it, in your region it makes very little sense to do that.
Even tire shops here in Canada only sell All-season tires that are at least at a bare minimum to handle some snow. It's completely different climate, so It's not a joke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #451 ·
I've seen one snow plow on the road and I think the owner is also a licensed plumber for the other 364 days. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #453 ·
Where did you get the brushed aluminum foot rest? I would love to have one.
It was part of a pedal set for automatic cars, took it out of my S40 when I sold it.
$50 for the set, but that was a few years ago. Made it China, but surprisingly great quality and very little wear to the rubber pads, even after years of use.

 

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Installed the wheel bearing lock braces.

The kit comes with the brace and replacement bolts for everything that you'll be undoing.


It is normal for the front hub bearings to sit out about 0.5mm.


The bracket installs over the dust shield using extended bolts.




It should sit flush with the hub once installed.
Interested in getting a set of these?

Where did you source yours? PN information?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #457 ·
What does the wheel bearing lock brace do?
It's a "common" problem for P1s to have the hub bearing separate from the knuckle, which is even more common on lowered vehicles or cars running aggressive offset wheels or spacers.
If the bearing separates by even 1mm, it will throw a number of errors (ABS, TRACS, BLIS, and a few others), while codes will only show ABS faults.

It's not common enough for Volvo to issue an extended warranty, but it was common enough that they made a part to prevent it from happening.

I was experiencing all of the symptoms of this issue, so I purchased a new hub/knuckle assembly and installed these brackets at the same time as preventative maintenance. It ultimately turned out to be a pinch in the ABS wiring, but I never would have tracked that down had I not eliminated the other variables first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
Last night, I finally got around to replacing all of the clutch lines. It was actually a pretty easy job since I don't have the battery in the engine bay.

The O rings between some of the connectors were definitely a bit worn. While I was at it, I also removed the shock dampener from the fluid feed into the slave cylinder. As Hussein mentioned, this helps moderate the flow of fluid, which is also why there is a bit of a lag when quickly changing gear. I'm not sure whether my problem was O rings, which were letting air in but not fluid out (completely possible), or this dampener getting stuck (a likely culprit since my recent clutch issues often occur after a few quick gear changes). Another possibility is that the dampener was getting stuck, then allowing the system to suck in air from the worn O rings.
Either way, air was definitely getting into the system and I was not losing any fluid.

New vs. Old feed line between the reservoir and master cylinder.




First section of the hard line running from the master to the slave. New on top, old on bottom. You'll notice that the rubber top piece slid straight off the line. Had to pull it out of the female connector before installing the new line. You'll also notice that the old line clearly has a smaller opening than the new line.







Old vs. New line that feeds into the slave.



Blurry pictures, but here is where I removed the shock dampener.





Carefully removed using a screw.



I will need to be a bit more careful with hard launches and quick gear changes now that this dampener is removed. But this definitely eliminated the lag!

Every component of my hydraulic clutch system has been replaced, so I'm really hoping this solved all the problems.
After doing a full flush/bleed, the clutch is now firmer than ever. I've bled this clutch at least a dozen times in the last two years and it has never felt this great. Put about 200 miles on it since yesterday and so far so good. I'll be abusing the car this weekend, so we'll see how she does!
 
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