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Discussion Starter · #321 ·
Haha, and the Volvo blades actually say Volvo on them, which makes it totally worth the few bucks extra. :)
$5 more than the Bosch blades, but it put my shopping cart over $xxx so I could use a $10 coupon. So in the end, they were the cheapest option. ;)
Lifetime replacement warranty on these too!
 

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Duuude, the seat controls on the side make it look so much better. Nice work on getting that mounted on the SPARCO!
 

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Discussion Starter · #323 ·
Duuude, the seat controls on the side make it look so much better. Nice work on getting that mounted on the SPARCO!
Thanks! Have you even started to look at your Sparco project?

After taking apart that 850 seat, it looks like the seat belt bolts to the very bottom rail. So if you can recycle P80 rails, you shouldn't have any problem still using the stock seat belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #324 ·
I decided it was time to extend the fog grilles into those stupid bump-outs on the front bumper. SUPER pleased with the results, looks a lot more aggressive (and smiley) in my opinion. Eventually, I may add ducts for brake vents.

Only about 1" of the metal bumper is exposed, which I also painted black to make less apparent.





It does look a little strange from the side, but I'm still very pleased with how it turned out.

 

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Discussion Starter · #327 · (Edited)
Thanks guys! A bit intimidating to cut into the bumper... But I've also cut into the hood. So I guess I'm not too scared when it comes to being destructive with this car. ;)

The lines were cut out of the actual bumper. Here's a picture from my test fitting; after cutting, before sanding/painting.



Fender alignment looks hideously off because I didn't have the bumper in place, it was just resting against the car.
 

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What did you use to cut it? Some pretty steady hands, you have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #330 ·
320mm TheBelgian rear brake kit:

320 rotor next to the 280 stock


TheBelgian extended caliper bracket










320s front and rear





The braking feel is extremely balanced with a lot more bite than stock 280 rears and 300 fronts. Using HAWK HPS pads on all four corners.

This car can stop on a dime.

 

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Three cheers for bigger rotors! To my non-car oriented wife I always explain the easy way to spot a car that actually is fast, vs one that appears fast is to look at the size of the brake rotors. It's a pet peeve of mine, and yours look fabulous. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #333 ·
drjonez Race Mode switch

First step is to get the seat out of the way. You can leave the seat in place and simply slide it all the way forward, but I found it easier to just undo the 4 bolts and tilt it back.
(video for fully removing the seat if you're not familiar with where those four bolts are)


Pull back the carpet to reveal the Yaw Sensor





I split the yellow/red wire for my switch



My write up is for those with the facelift interior.
Here is the switch for my LED light bar, so I could not put my switch there.



Here is the switch for the LED light bar in my 04.5 S40. Could be another possible location for a switch.



In my C30, the plan was to put the switch in place of the useless change cubby.
With the console trim pulled off, the cubby simply unclips from the bottom.



I cut a piece of rigid aluminum to fit in that slot, then drilled a hole for my switch. I had to reverse my switch so that when the cover is closed, it remains on (complete circuit for traction control) and I can turn it off for "race mode." I also wrapped that piece of aluminum in black vinyl to make it a little more OEM looking.



I drilled a hole through the cubby to feed the wires.





Cubby snapped back in, holding my switch plate in place.



The end result with race mode "on" (while the switch is turned "off"):



And for daily driving:



When race mode is enabled, this is what the dash displays:



You can flip the switch at any time to disable traction control. To turn traction control back on, the switch my be flipped to complete the circuit for the Yaw sensor and the car will have to be restarted. Upon initial restart, I have no warning lights or messages, all is as it should be.
 

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I decided it was time to extend the fog grilles into those stupid bump-outs on the front bumper. SUPER pleased with the results, looks a lot more aggressive (and smiley) in my opinion. Eventually, I may add ducts for brake vents.

Only about 1" of the metal bumper is exposed, which I also painted black to make less apparent.



It does look a little strange from the side, but I'm still very pleased with how it turned out.

Money Shot right there. Simply Amazing work, I think I'm getting a ton of ideas now. Thanks Michael!
 

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Discussion Starter · #336 ·
Money Shot right there. Simply Amazing work, I think I'm getting a ton of ideas now. Thanks Michael!
Thanks Alfred! Done anything to the R recently?
 

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Discussion Starter · #337 ·
Got my new camber arms installed, that fixed the wheel wobble and one of my clunks, but I also discovered a bent rear shock. The fronts are fine, the wheels are fine, but the shock does not go straight up and down and it makes a clunking noise over bumpers, no leaks though!

The H&R coilovers are nice, but if I'm paying to replace rear shocks, I want something with adjustable dampening.
Thanks to the desperate guys on the Mazda 3 forums, before Koni, Bilstein, etc. made shocks for them, they were looking at other alternatives. While the old Focus C170 platform is different from the C1 platform, there are many similarities. The rear suspension has an identical geometry; shocks, springs, sways bars, etc. all fit.

Many have raved about the KYB shocks, the price was definitely right at only $63 a piece with a lifetime warranty. I really like that the adjustment knob is on the side and not the top, so adjustment is easy.


The only real concern is the weight difference. The 2004 Focus is ~300lbs lighter than our cars, but considering that those are sedans with expected rear passengers, and I have no back seat, I imagine these will be fairly sufficient.
They should be here by next week, so I will keep you updated on confirmed fitment and ride quality.
 

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Got my new camber arms installed, that fixed the wheel wobble and one of my clunks, but I also discovered a bent rear shock. The fronts are fine, the wheels are fine, but the shock does not go straight up and down and it makes a clunking noise over bumpers, no leaks though!

The H&R coilovers are nice, but if I'm paying to replace rear shocks, I want something with adjustable dampening.
Thanks to the desperate guys on the Mazda 3 forums, before Koni, Bilstein, etc. made shocks for them, they were looking at other alternatives. While the old Focus C170 platform is different from the C1 platform, there are many similarities. The rear suspension has an identical geometry; shocks, springs, sways bars, etc. all fit.

Many have raved about the KYB shocks, the price was definitely right at only $63 a piece with a lifetime warranty. I really like that the adjustment knob is on the side and not the top, so adjustment is easy.


The only real concern is the weight difference. The 2004 Focus is ~300lbs lighter than our cars, but considering that those are sedans with expected rear passengers, and I have no back seat, I imagine these will be fairly sufficient.
They should be here by next week, so I will keep you updated on confirmed fitment and ride quality.
Weight difference shouldn't matter, it's the shock valving that should matter. You should have them revalved to whatever spring rate you're using. This is where a lot of people confuse weight of the car. The spring rate should be in consideration when choosing a spring and vehicle weight is accounted.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while on the toilet.
 

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Thanks Alfred! Done anything to the R recently?
Nah some minor stuff here and there, mostly maintenance mode nowadays since having a kid, some priorities have shifted. After seeing how this thread has grown, got me excited again :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #340 ·
Weight difference shouldn't matter, it's the shock valving that should matter. You should have them revalved to whatever spring rate you're using. This is where a lot of people confuse weight of the car. The spring rate should be in consideration when choosing a spring and vehicle weight is accounted.
I admit, I don't know much about shock valving. But lots of positive reviews of these struts with lowered cars on the Mazda and Focus forums, so we'll see how they are.
Coming from the H&Rs, I'm sure anything will be an improvement.

Nah some minor stuff here and there, mostly maintenance mode nowadays since having a kid, some priorities have shifted. After seeing how this thread has grown, got me excited again :)
I hear you there. No kids for me yet, but priorities have slightly changed with married life. It has mostly been the cheap cosmetic mods and upgrading worn parts in the last few months.
 
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