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MyNameIdeasWereTaken AWD C30 Progression Thread

288051 Views 865 Replies 113 Participants Last post by  MyNameIdeasWereTaken
2008 Volvo C30 T5 "Belle"


Phase 1:
V2.0 Cosmic White / Laser Blue Metallic
FWD M66​
272whp
345ftlbs of torque
0-60mph: 4.925 seconds
Phase 2:
V2.0 Cosmic White / Laser Blue Metallic
AWD M66​
266whp
331ftlbs of torque​
Stock Options:
Bi-Xenon headlights (DRLs disabled)
Fog lights
Dynamic Stability Traction Control
Cruise Control
Rain Sensing Windshield
Brushed Aluminum Interior Trim
Power/Memory Driver Seat
Dynaudio
"Illumination"
Sport Pedals
Carbon Fiber B-Pillars
Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Sunglasses Holder
Rubber Floor Mats
Rear Bumper Reflectors
Auto-dimming Mirror with Compass
R-Design Gauges
Rear Mudflaps
Stock Options:
Bi-Xenon headlights (DRLs disabled)
Fog lights
Dynamic Stability Traction Control
Cruise Control
R-Design Interior Trim
"Illumination"
Sport Pedals
Carbon Fiber B-Pillars
Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Rear Bumper Reflectors
Auto-dimming Mirror with Compass
R-Design Gauges
Rear Mudflaps
Exterior Cosmetic Modifications:
Exterior Cosmetic Modifications:
Interior Cosmetic Modifications:
Interior Cosmetic Modifications:
Audio & Electronics:
3 Way 12V Splitter
Garmin GPS
Cobra Radar Detector
Kinivo Bluetooth Aux Unit
Glowshift Boost/Vacuum Gauge
Glowshift Volt Meter
Battery Relocation
(see more info here)
Eyourlife LED Light Bar (see more info here)
Black Box G1W Dash Cam
Quad Fog Lights
Audio & Electronics:
Performance & Handling:
H&R Coilovers
Elevate Rear Sway Bar
Massive Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
Forge Recirculation Valve
Elevate Turbo Control valve
IPD HD Coilpacks
Custom Short Ram Intake
Elevate Intake Plenum
Do88 Intercooler
Elevate Intercooler Hardpipe Kit
Elevate Silicone Hose Set
Elevate Non-Resonated Cat Back Exhaust
Manzo Catless 3" Downpipe
Newman Camshafts
Custom Shark Tune
Stainless Steel Brake lines
Eurosport Tuning Front Strut Bar
TheBelgian Half Cage
(see more info on rear brace here)
Meyle HD Endlinks
Mazda 3 Torque Mount with WhiteLine Kit
Greddy RS type BOV
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Porsche 70mm Throttle Body
(see more info here)
Hotchkis RSB Brackets
Mishimoto Aluminum Coolant Reservoir
(see more info here)
Wilwood 6 Piston 320mm Front Brakes
TheBelgian 320mm Rear Brakes
(see more info here)
drjonez Race Mode switch (see more info here)
KYB Adjustable Shocks
Clutch Shock Load Limiter Delete
(see more info here)
Performance & Handling:
AWD Conversion (see a video here)
H&R Coilovers
Elevate Rear Sway Bar
Massive Adjustable Rear Camber Arms
Forge Recirculation Valve
IPD HD Coilpacks
Custom Short Ram Intake
Elevate Intake Plenum
Evolve Intercooler
Elevate Intercooler Hardpipe Kit
Elevate Silicone Hose Set
Custom Non-Resonated 3" Exhaust
Custom Catless 3" Downpipe
Custom Shark Tune
Stainless Steel Brake lines
Eurosport Tuning Front Strut Bar
Custom Rear Upper Stabilizer Bar
Honda Pilot Endlinks
Damond Torque Mount
Greddy RS type BOV
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
Porsche 70mm Throttle Body
(see more info here)
Hotchkis RSB Brackets
Mishimoto Aluminum Coolant Reservoir
Volvo 320mm Front Brakes
TheBelgian 320mm Rear Brakes
(see more info here)
KYB Adjustable Shocks
Clutch Shock Load Limiter Delete
(see more info here)
Awards & Features:
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321 - 340 of 866 Posts
Haha, and the Volvo blades actually say Volvo on them, which makes it totally worth the few bucks extra. :)
$5 more than the Bosch blades, but it put my shopping cart over $xxx so I could use a $10 coupon. So in the end, they were the cheapest option. ;)
Lifetime replacement warranty on these too!
Duuude, the seat controls on the side make it look so much better. Nice work on getting that mounted on the SPARCO!
Duuude, the seat controls on the side make it look so much better. Nice work on getting that mounted on the SPARCO!
Thanks! Have you even started to look at your Sparco project?

After taking apart that 850 seat, it looks like the seat belt bolts to the very bottom rail. So if you can recycle P80 rails, you shouldn't have any problem still using the stock seat belt.
3
I decided it was time to extend the fog grilles into those stupid bump-outs on the front bumper. SUPER pleased with the results, looks a lot more aggressive (and smiley) in my opinion. Eventually, I may add ducts for brake vents.

Only about 1" of the metal bumper is exposed, which I also painted black to make less apparent.





It does look a little strange from the side, but I'm still very pleased with how it turned out.

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That was a brave move, but very well executed! Changes the look of the front end a lot. I like it though! Very unique for sure
Thanks guys! A bit intimidating to cut into the bumper... But I've also cut into the hood. So I guess I'm not too scared when it comes to being destructive with this car. ;)

The lines were cut out of the actual bumper. Here's a picture from my test fitting; after cutting, before sanding/painting.



Fender alignment looks hideously off because I didn't have the bumper in place, it was just resting against the car.
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What did you use to cut it? Some pretty steady hands, you have.
What did you use to cut it? Some pretty steady hands, you have.
Standard dremel tool
9
320mm TheBelgian rear brake kit:

320 rotor next to the 280 stock


TheBelgian extended caliper bracket










320s front and rear





The braking feel is extremely balanced with a lot more bite than stock 280 rears and 300 fronts. Using HAWK HPS pads on all four corners.

This car can stop on a dime.

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Three cheers for bigger rotors! To my non-car oriented wife I always explain the easy way to spot a car that actually is fast, vs one that appears fast is to look at the size of the brake rotors. It's a pet peeve of mine, and yours look fabulous. :)
Looking great

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
13
drjonez Race Mode switch

First step is to get the seat out of the way. You can leave the seat in place and simply slide it all the way forward, but I found it easier to just undo the 4 bolts and tilt it back.
(video for fully removing the seat if you're not familiar with where those four bolts are)


Pull back the carpet to reveal the Yaw Sensor





I split the yellow/red wire for my switch



My write up is for those with the facelift interior.
Here is the switch for my LED light bar, so I could not put my switch there.



Here is the switch for the LED light bar in my 04.5 S40. Could be another possible location for a switch.



In my C30, the plan was to put the switch in place of the useless change cubby.
With the console trim pulled off, the cubby simply unclips from the bottom.



I cut a piece of rigid aluminum to fit in that slot, then drilled a hole for my switch. I had to reverse my switch so that when the cover is closed, it remains on (complete circuit for traction control) and I can turn it off for "race mode." I also wrapped that piece of aluminum in black vinyl to make it a little more OEM looking.



I drilled a hole through the cubby to feed the wires.





Cubby snapped back in, holding my switch plate in place.



The end result with race mode "on" (while the switch is turned "off"):



And for daily driving:



When race mode is enabled, this is what the dash displays:



You can flip the switch at any time to disable traction control. To turn traction control back on, the switch my be flipped to complete the circuit for the Yaw sensor and the car will have to be restarted. Upon initial restart, I have no warning lights or messages, all is as it should be.
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I decided it was time to extend the fog grilles into those stupid bump-outs on the front bumper. SUPER pleased with the results, looks a lot more aggressive (and smiley) in my opinion. Eventually, I may add ducts for brake vents.

Only about 1" of the metal bumper is exposed, which I also painted black to make less apparent.



It does look a little strange from the side, but I'm still very pleased with how it turned out.

Money Shot right there. Simply Amazing work, I think I'm getting a ton of ideas now. Thanks Michael!
Money Shot right there. Simply Amazing work, I think I'm getting a ton of ideas now. Thanks Michael!
Thanks Alfred! Done anything to the R recently?
Got my new camber arms installed, that fixed the wheel wobble and one of my clunks, but I also discovered a bent rear shock. The fronts are fine, the wheels are fine, but the shock does not go straight up and down and it makes a clunking noise over bumpers, no leaks though!

The H&R coilovers are nice, but if I'm paying to replace rear shocks, I want something with adjustable dampening.
Thanks to the desperate guys on the Mazda 3 forums, before Koni, Bilstein, etc. made shocks for them, they were looking at other alternatives. While the old Focus C170 platform is different from the C1 platform, there are many similarities. The rear suspension has an identical geometry; shocks, springs, sways bars, etc. all fit.

Many have raved about the KYB shocks, the price was definitely right at only $63 a piece with a lifetime warranty. I really like that the adjustment knob is on the side and not the top, so adjustment is easy.


The only real concern is the weight difference. The 2004 Focus is ~300lbs lighter than our cars, but considering that those are sedans with expected rear passengers, and I have no back seat, I imagine these will be fairly sufficient.
They should be here by next week, so I will keep you updated on confirmed fitment and ride quality.
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Got my new camber arms installed, that fixed the wheel wobble and one of my clunks, but I also discovered a bent rear shock. The fronts are fine, the wheels are fine, but the shock does not go straight up and down and it makes a clunking noise over bumpers, no leaks though!

The H&R coilovers are nice, but if I'm paying to replace rear shocks, I want something with adjustable dampening.
Thanks to the desperate guys on the Mazda 3 forums, before Koni, Bilstein, etc. made shocks for them, they were looking at other alternatives. While the old Focus C170 platform is different from the C1 platform, there are many similarities. The rear suspension has an identical geometry; shocks, springs, sways bars, etc. all fit.

Many have raved about the KYB shocks, the price was definitely right at only $63 a piece with a lifetime warranty. I really like that the adjustment knob is on the side and not the top, so adjustment is easy.


The only real concern is the weight difference. The 2004 Focus is ~300lbs lighter than our cars, but considering that those are sedans with expected rear passengers, and I have no back seat, I imagine these will be fairly sufficient.
They should be here by next week, so I will keep you updated on confirmed fitment and ride quality.
Weight difference shouldn't matter, it's the shock valving that should matter. You should have them revalved to whatever spring rate you're using. This is where a lot of people confuse weight of the car. The spring rate should be in consideration when choosing a spring and vehicle weight is accounted.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk while on the toilet.
Thanks Alfred! Done anything to the R recently?
Nah some minor stuff here and there, mostly maintenance mode nowadays since having a kid, some priorities have shifted. After seeing how this thread has grown, got me excited again :)
Weight difference shouldn't matter, it's the shock valving that should matter. You should have them revalved to whatever spring rate you're using. This is where a lot of people confuse weight of the car. The spring rate should be in consideration when choosing a spring and vehicle weight is accounted.
I admit, I don't know much about shock valving. But lots of positive reviews of these struts with lowered cars on the Mazda and Focus forums, so we'll see how they are.
Coming from the H&Rs, I'm sure anything will be an improvement.

Nah some minor stuff here and there, mostly maintenance mode nowadays since having a kid, some priorities have shifted. After seeing how this thread has grown, got me excited again :)
I hear you there. No kids for me yet, but priorities have slightly changed with married life. It has mostly been the cheap cosmetic mods and upgrading worn parts in the last few months.
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