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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since I have a 2004 R, the AC drier is huge, and in the way for a FMIC install. I finally moved it to the right position, gave it one final whack, and of course it put a tiny tear in one of the lines, vapor started pouring out, fluid started bubbling, needless to say I got the hell out of there and put buckets to catch the fluid and vented the whole place.

My question now is this, can I just slightly bend the line back into place and apply a liberal amount of JB weld to fix it, and have the AC charged? Or do I need to replace the line?

It's the line running from the AC condenser to the top of the AC drier, and the hole is right where it meets the AC drier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Alright, soldering it with an aluminum rod, system is completely unpressurized, the aluminum rod should allow the line to contract and expand at the same rate, and it's strong enough to contain the pressure.

Hopefully this will work and be permanent.

The hot side piping for the FMIC is a nightmare, cold side is complete, JB welded the IAT into place, same spot as in Mullen's thread, sleeved the plastic cold side pipe with cut 2.5" steel sleeve, so just the hot side remains.
 

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I had similar issue with the ac had to drain it.. you'll need the recharge kits..the port is not the one by the bumper but under the PS res
 

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Buy a new dryer, they're cheap
You can go afterarket as long as it fits, they all work the same way
 

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Alright, soldering it with an aluminum rod, system is completely unpressurized, the aluminum rod should allow the line to contract and expand at the same rate, and it's strong enough to contain the pressure.

Hopefully this will work and be permanent.

The hot side piping for the FMIC is a nightmare, cold side is complete, JB welded the IAT into place, same spot as in Mullen's thread, sleeved the plastic cold side pipe with cut 2.5" steel sleeve, so just the hot side remains.
Good luck lol it's awful ;)
 

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Im really really not looking forward to doing a FMIC in the future...

If only I could survive without AC...
 

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Im really really not looking forward to doing a FMIC in the future...

If only I could survive without AC...
It's a 5-7 hour job TOPS with a proper kit
then you go somewhere and recharge it

If you plan it properly, you make an appt to drain it early in the morning and refill it later in the afternoon
 

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Since I have a 2004 R, the AC drier is huge, and in the way for a FMIC install. I finally moved it to the right position, gave it one final whack, and of course it put a tiny tear in one of the lines, vapor started pouring out, fluid started bubbling, needless to say I got the hell out of there and put buckets to catch the fluid and vented the whole place.

My question now is this, can I just slightly bend the line back into place and apply a liberal amount of JB weld to fix it, and have the AC charged? Or do I need to replace the line?

It's the line running from the AC condenser to the top of the AC drier, and the hole is right where it meets the AC drier.
oh man.. sorry to hear that..
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's actually the line that connects to the condenser that has a hole in it. I soldered the line back with aluminum rod and visibly it looks perfect, the hole was small enough to actually not allow any gas/fluid to leak out after a certain point, I had to pull the lower line to drain the whole system.

It should just require a refill, and my hot side piping is basically complete, just need another 45 degree angle cut down to get it to connect to the charge pipe. JB weld is still drying on the AIT so I'm done for the day.

I guess I'll post up on whether or not the soldering holds, I'll just get the system filled by a Firestone or something on Monday before I make the 4 hour drive home to St Louis.

If the FMIC doesn't make a big difference I'm going to die.
 

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It's actually the line that connects to the condenser that has a hole in it. I soldered the line back with aluminum rod and visibly it looks perfect, the hole was small enough to actually not allow any gas/fluid to leak out after a certain point, I had to pull the lower line to drain the whole system.

It should just require a refill, and my hot side piping is basically complete, just need another 45 degree angle cut down to get it to connect to the charge pipe. JB weld is still drying on the AIT so I'm done for the day.

I guess I'll post up on whether or not the soldering holds, I'll just get the system filled by a Firestone or something on Monday before I make the 4 hour drive home to St Louis.

If the FMIC doesn't make a big difference I'm going to die.
It'll make a good difference :)
 

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If you are opening the system you need to vac down the system before charging it with r134. You can get vac Venturi at HF for cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you are opening the system you need to vac down the system before charging it with r134. You can get vac Venturi at HF for cheap.
I was considering doing it myself, but after looking up exactly how to do it I'd rather just pay $70 to have someone do it correctly.

Provided that my soldering fix actually holds and seals the leak a recharge at a shop shouldn't take long, so I was just planning on having it done Monday morning before my drive home.

If the soldering seal doesn't hold then it looks like I'll be headed back to university foreign cars to get it fixed right.

Would there be any harmful effects if I was to drive for 4 hours without AC refrigerant in the system?
 

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Anyone have a pic where the AC low pressure hook up is?
I got the recharge kit and cant seem to find it.
Under PS res?
 

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Yea, the '04's with the larger AC driers are royal pains. '05+ is easier...oh well I feel your pain.
 

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Low pressure port is under the Power Steering and Coolant reservoir. You need a 19mm socket with a long extension to loosen the cap. I refilled mine 2 days ago...after the FMIC install....
 

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Low pressure port is under the Power Steering and Coolant reservoir. You need a 19mm socket with a long extension to loosen the cap. I refilled mine 2 days ago...after the FMIC install....
If you get a chance please post a pic, I'll like to get cold air circulating in my car again.
:)
 

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Would there be any harmful effects if I was to drive for 4 hours without AC refrigerant in the system?
I just read a thread here maybe 2 weeks ago, another SSer had installed his FMIC and voided the AC system. He was reporting his car was acting weird, the engine cooling fan was on ultra-high speed all the time and other SSers seemed to indicate this was the result of driving with no A/C. Personally I don't know if that's true or not, I imagine you'll find out soon enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I just read a thread here maybe 2 weeks ago, another SSer had installed his FMIC and voided the AC system. He was reporting his car was acting weird, the engine cooling fan was on ultra-high speed all the time and other SSers seemed to indicate this was the result of driving with no A/C. Personally I don't know if that's true or not, I imagine you'll find out soon enough.
Well I'm getting it charged as I type this so we'll see. I turned the AC and air off before I started the car and haven't touched it since. So far no weird conditions but you never know...
 

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I just read a thread here maybe 2 weeks ago, another SSer had installed his FMIC and voided the AC system. He was reporting his car was acting weird, the engine cooling fan was on ultra-high speed all the time and other SSers seemed to indicate this was the result of driving with no A/C. Personally I don't know if that's true or not, I imagine you'll find out soon enough.
That was me :D shes all set now...and only goes bonkers when it's mad hot out
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
AC charged, no leaks (well there was a tiny one, tech said it stopped after a couple of seconds, haven't noticed any dye anywhere so it should be fine), I assume everything is fine...

I "limped" the car home so to speak, never hit above 3psi in the 4 hour drive. I definitely did not want a blown coupler that I couldn't access on the side of the highway far away from home.

Because I had a leak the car was acting very weird, boost wouldn't build above 5psi (which was what my leak limited my boost too before I fixed it) when I floored it in my neighborhood. Immediately after I fixed the leak (before I drove it home) the car boosted to 5psi, hesitated, boosted to 9-10psi, and then I let off, didn't floor it, didn't want a coupler flying off. So right now I'm thinking that the ECU is adapted to the 5psi, and limping it home only furthered this low boost parameter. I'll have to pull the fuses yet again and do some 3rd gear pulls tonight.

The intercooler also sits crooked somehow...it's about 2mm over to the drivers side, not really noticeable, and 2mm higher on the drivers side, which is noticeable....definitely need to open her back up and put some washers on the mounting brackets to make it even...
 
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