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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I'd share my sidehop experience so far. Yes, I know there are lots of threads on this, but I thought I'd update my own thread (mainly for my records!) on what I'm doing to try and eliminate it.

History: owned an 04 MY S60R a few years ago, plagued with side-hop, and decided to get rid after 1yr ownership and spent £££s on angle gear, turbo, etc...

15 or so cars later, I'm now in a 05 MY S60R! Much better condition, everything works :) But side-hop has reared it's ugly head yet again. It's very bad at times: had a scary moment when going round a roundabout and the rear just stepped out when one side hit a bump. Was *very* scary.

So, I thought I'd keep this thread up to date with the incremental changes I'm planning on doing.

Today, the car is in a Volvo dealership having IPD front+rear ARBs, rear HD drop links and the "magic" alignment settings... Will report on the difference (if any) at the end of the day, though I find it quite hard to think of the S60R without side-hop! Maybe I'm getting used to it ;)

Next on the list, probably in a few weeks time, would be installation of rear Ultra Racing chassis brace...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I forgot ask: does anyone have a technical explanation of what happens? I was just standing under the car trying to figure out what happens when the rear hits a bump and what would cause the car to "step" aside.

Two thoughts:

1. can shock damping alone cause the car to steer from the rear?

2. or if the toe of one of the rear wheels changes during compression (not sure whether more toe in or toe out), does this mean the wheel is not straight hence will steer the car?

I've searched but struggled to find a technical reason as to why it happens, and why it is less pronounced (or even gone) when the 4C is disabled?
 

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Go and get track sway bars..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Go and get track sway bars..
25mm track ARBs being fitted as we speak :)

I'm also doing the bush TNN whilst I'm at it. We were prying about the rear and saw there was no real play, but the "link" lower bush had some in. The bush TNN speaks for the upper bush in the link, so we're just changing both links - easier that way!
 

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Use Powerflex bushings
 

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Mine had it a little bit when I got it, but aligning with zero toe in on the rears, with a SUM calibration made it go away. IMO shock response does contribute to the effect hence the SUM cal. I'm also on TME springs, but stock antisway bars. Ride Quality is AWESOME. Would love to someday add at least the thicker rear sway, if not both though...
 

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renew the front ball joints & the front rubber topmounts & side hopping will be as good as disappeared
&change the ARB's & anti sway bars to track use specs
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
renew the front ball joints & the front rubber topmounts & side hopping will be as good as disappeared
&change the ARB's & anti sway bars to track use specs
Had new control arms + top mounts are in perfect condition. Not sure how the front relates to the rear hop though?

Update: replaced the ARBs with 25mm track spec IPD ones & HD drop links, and had the 0 rear toe alignment done. No change to side-hop - there is this road close by with ~10 sunken man hole covers and the car just dances over them :(

I also changed both "figure of 8" links at the rear:



Everything disconnected:




I ordered the revised bushing for the TNN above, but we didn't get time to fit. It looks like a pain in the ass job, and also possibility of damaging sub-frame! Also,those bushes on my car didn't have any play whatsoever, so not sure whether changing them will make any difference.

Next on the list:

Ultra racing 4-point rear chassis brace

4 new tyres (Vredstein Ultrac Sessanta, or something with a very stiff side wall).
 

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The only thing I could think of fixing the side hop is to swap the inner front toe control arm bushings for powerflex bushes. The stock bushing is a big flimsy bushing looking very similar to the stock round upper engine mount.
The reason is simple. When one of the rear wheels hits a pot hole it will force the actual wheel to toe outwards and the driver will experience the rear end to act nervous in a fraction of a second.

Found here
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The only thing I could think of fixing the side hop is to swap the inner front toe control arm bushings for powerflex bushes. The stock bushing is a big flimsy bushing looking very similar to the stock round upper engine mount.
The reason is simple. When one of the rear wheels hits a pot hole it will force the actual wheel to toe outwards and the driver will experience the rear end to act nervous in a fraction of a second.

Found here
It just so happened I ordered these last night ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update (I know this has been covered before, again mainly for my benefit!):

Disconnected rear accelerometer in the boot. Car defaults to somewhere between sport and advanced, very nice setting in my opinion. Gone over some usual bumps and side-hop is mostly gone, although there is still a slight wiggle.

I then connected it back up, put it into "sport" and went over the same bumps. More of a wiggle than without 4C, given suspension stiffness is about the same. So the 4C makes it worse.


Next step:

1. Fit inner rear toe control arm bushes & upper void link bushes. Check what it's like with/without 4C.

2. Fit Ultra racing rear chassis brace. Check what it's like with/without 4C.

3. Fit better tyres.

4. If all of the above fails, call it a day, and drive it as it is with either (a) 4C off or (b) if it gets better with the above mods, 4C on.
 

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i had side hop in my 05 VR. changed out the left rear axle. it required dropping everything in the center rear of vehicle down to slide it out. when we reinstalled everything. DID not change out a thing... side hop was gone. got it re-aligned and its been fine for the last 6k. maybe something was loose? my car had 160k on it when i did that
 

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I'm in the group where SUM calibration seems to have fixed sidehop.
I have had this car 2 months and have put 5K miles on it including the 1750 miles to drive it home from purchase.
I had several sidehop instances on the drive home and noticed it on local roads a few times. I did the SUM calibration. I have not had it do the sidehop since the calibration.
186K and the car has new fronts 20K back but is riding on original rears.
 

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I must also add in that I changed out the rear and front 4c shocks before I changed out the rear axle. Did a sum recalibration too after.

Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
All useful to know.

My car has done 70k, had new front shocks a few thousand miles ago. Rears don't appear to be misting or anything, so I presume they are fine. There is some side hop inherent in the P2 chassis, but for now, I'm enjoying the car with the rear accelerometer disconnected. It feels like a real car, none of this 4C sky hook on stilts feeling, none of the 4C doing weird things. I just want the car to behave like a normal car.

I wish Volvo made the 3 buttons static damper settings rather than having all this fancy technology that doesn't really work.
 

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Btw, my rears were not blown, only one out of the 4 were blown. Others were worn out. Suspect that they were originals.

Sent from my HTC Sensation using Tapatalk 2
 

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I changed all the things you said you have, I received this hint(I don't know anymore on which forum) to renew the ball joints & renewed the upper mounts also, since then, My car doesn't have the sidehop issue anymore(and the roads in Belgium are terrible)
 

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i just changed out the front control arm front bushing and the bushing in the tech note and rear upper control arm front bushing void bushing from powerflex. ride ok, no side hop yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
i just changed out the front control arm front bushing and the bushing in the tech note and rear upper control arm front bushing void bushing from powerflex. ride ok, no side hop yet
I've got the void bush I need to fit, and also the large powerflex inner control toe arm bush too (which apparently is a pain to get out). This isn't the one in the tech note, but this one:

http://www.powerflex.co.uk/product-details/Rear+Toe+Control+Arm+Bush+Front/822.html

(#5 on the diagram).
 

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i changed the #5 bushing for the 2012 xc90 one which is a full rubber bushig has no void like the s60 or older xc90. the control arm bushing was seized in the rear subframe. w broke the volvo tool. then we melted the rubber with torch nd got the center sleeve out then used an air saw t cut a relief in the outer sleeve then air hammer it out of the frame.
 
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