My R just left me high and dry?
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ETM, fuel pump, MAF ?!?<p>Did you get an immobilizer message in the DIM?<br>Just for the heck of it, try your SPARE key.<p>Good luck man...what a crappy weekend for it to happen <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif" BORDER="0">
Re: (phuz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>phuz</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ETM, fuel pump, MAF ?!?<p>Did you get an immobilizer message in the DIM?<br>Just for the heck of it, try your SPARE key.<p>Good luck man...what a crappy weekend for it to happen <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif" BORDER="0"></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Yup tried a second key. What does the immobilizer message look like? I do not think I got one everything looked normal on the dash.<p>It is a 2005 with 30K on the clock if that helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>phuz</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ETM, fuel pump, MAF ?!?<p>Did you get an immobilizer message in the DIM?<br>Just for the heck of it, try your SPARE key.<p>Good luck man...what a crappy weekend for it to happen <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthdown.gif" BORDER="0"></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Yup tried a second key. What does the immobilizer message look like? I do not think I got one everything looked normal on the dash.<p>It is a 2005 with 30K on the clock if that helps.
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Re: My R just left me high and dry? (Dubfound)
Did you get a single"click" noise or numerous subsequent clicks out of it? Or no noise at all when you tried to start it? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
Did you get a single"click" noise or numerous subsequent clicks out of it? Or no noise at all when you tried to start it? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0">
Re: My R just left me high and dry? (danielocean03)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>danielocean03</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you get a single"click" noise or numerous subsequent clicks out of it? Or no noise at all when you tried to start it? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>No noise at all. When I would turn the key <B>all the way </B>it to crank over everything would shut off. And when I <B>release</B> the key everything would turn back on
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>danielocean03</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you get a single"click" noise or numerous subsequent clicks out of it? Or no noise at all when you tried to start it? <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/confused.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>No noise at all. When I would turn the key <B>all the way </B>it to crank over everything would shut off. And when I <B>release</B> the key everything would turn back on
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Re: My R just left me high and dry? (Dubfound)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Dubfound</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>No noise at all. When I would turn the key <B>all the way </B>it to crank over everything would shut off. And when I <B>release</B> the key everything would turn back on</TD></TR></TABLE><p>That is completely normal, most cars will switch off electric consumers to save the battery during the cranking period to lessen the amperage draw on the battery. It sounds as though you may have a fault with the ignition switch or circuitry heading from the ignition switch to the starter assembly. <p>Typical failure of the starter is characterized by some noise, whether it is a grinding bendix gear against the pressure plate (flywheel) or a click from the failed solenoid. The only other thing I can think of is maybe you have just enough amperage on a low battery to make your electrical instruments and accessories appear normal, but not enough to kick the starter. <p>Being that we are in the heat of summer right now, I would be willing to guess that you've used your A/C a fair amount this summer, and the "afterblow" feature of your HVAC system (designed to dry out the airbox to prevent mold) coupled with your engine cooling fan have drawn your battery down and it could just be in need of a good recharge. That very thing happened on my 02 XC with the OE battery this spring. I've only recharged it and it has not even delivered a sluggish start since. <p>You have a 2003, it could be the 6 model-year-old battery if it is still original. You should have a 600 amp battery, if you go to the dealer for a new battery, go spend the extra $20~ on the 800 amp battery. And I would highly recommend a factory battery. Good Luck! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Dubfound</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>No noise at all. When I would turn the key <B>all the way </B>it to crank over everything would shut off. And when I <B>release</B> the key everything would turn back on</TD></TR></TABLE><p>That is completely normal, most cars will switch off electric consumers to save the battery during the cranking period to lessen the amperage draw on the battery. It sounds as though you may have a fault with the ignition switch or circuitry heading from the ignition switch to the starter assembly. <p>Typical failure of the starter is characterized by some noise, whether it is a grinding bendix gear against the pressure plate (flywheel) or a click from the failed solenoid. The only other thing I can think of is maybe you have just enough amperage on a low battery to make your electrical instruments and accessories appear normal, but not enough to kick the starter. <p>Being that we are in the heat of summer right now, I would be willing to guess that you've used your A/C a fair amount this summer, and the "afterblow" feature of your HVAC system (designed to dry out the airbox to prevent mold) coupled with your engine cooling fan have drawn your battery down and it could just be in need of a good recharge. That very thing happened on my 02 XC with the OE battery this spring. I've only recharged it and it has not even delivered a sluggish start since. <p>You have a 2003, it could be the 6 model-year-old battery if it is still original. You should have a 600 amp battery, if you go to the dealer for a new battery, go spend the extra $20~ on the 800 amp battery. And I would highly recommend a factory battery. Good Luck! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0">
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Re: My R just left me high and dry? (Dubfound)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Dubfound</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Came out of the store and it would not turn over? Checked the battery and it had plenty of voltage. Everything worked radio, locks windows but it would not crank over. I got it towed to the dealer.<p>Any ideas?<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Auto or manual?<p>If you have an auto, then ignore the rest of my post but if manual, did you try starting without pressing the clutch? Your clutch position sensor may have gone kaput. This happened to me a few times before.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>Dubfound</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Came out of the store and it would not turn over? Checked the battery and it had plenty of voltage. Everything worked radio, locks windows but it would not crank over. I got it towed to the dealer.<p>Any ideas?<br></TD></TR></TABLE><p>Auto or manual?<p>If you have an auto, then ignore the rest of my post but if manual, did you try starting without pressing the clutch? Your clutch position sensor may have gone kaput. This happened to me a few times before.
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Re: My R just left me high and dry? (danielocean03)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>danielocean03</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>That is completely normal, most cars will switch off electric consumers to save the battery during the cranking period to lessen the amperage draw on the battery. It sounds as though you may have a fault with the ignition switch or circuitry heading from the ignition switch to the starter assembly. <p>Typical failure of the starter is characterized by some noise, whether it is a grinding bendix gear against the pressure plate (flywheel) or a click from the failed solenoid. The only other thing I can think of is maybe you have just enough amperage on a low battery to make your electrical instruments and accessories appear normal, but not enough to kick the starter. <p>Being that we are in the heat of summer right now, I would be willing to guess that you've used your A/C a fair amount this summer, and the "afterblow" feature of your HVAC system (designed to dry out the airbox to prevent mold) coupled with your engine cooling fan have drawn your battery down and it could just be in need of a good recharge. That very thing happened on my 02 XC with the OE battery this spring. I've only recharged it and it has not even delivered a sluggish start since. <p>You have a 2003, it could be the 6 model-year-old battery if it is still original. You should have a 600 amp battery, if you go to the dealer for a new battery, go spend the extra $20~ on the 800 amp battery. And I would highly recommend a factory battery. Good Luck! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I certainly agree with the fact that most non-essential electrical consumers are shut down during cranking, I have a hard time with the fans being the culprit.<p>After blow runs the HVAC fan for 5 to 7 minutes, 50 minutes after shutdown. Fan is on high, drawing about 5 Amps, for a run duration of 6 minutes or 1/10 of an hour. That could accout for 0.5 Ah capacity taken from a 60 Ah battery. Not significant in my mind. <p>I have only heard the engine fan run, after shut down, for a matter of seconds, but if we gave it 1 minute, that is 1/60 of an hour, and lets give it a 10 Amp draw. That is less than 0.2 Ah on our 60 Ah battery. <p>Add to the above the fact that Volvo battery management, on the newer cars, eliminates such things as afterblow if it detects low battery voltage. I agree that Volvo software is not the most reliable, but I have actually seen this work on my 2005 V70R.<p>If there is nothing that takes place when turning the key to "start" I would expect the antenna ring, around the key, a part of the immobilizer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>danielocean03</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>That is completely normal, most cars will switch off electric consumers to save the battery during the cranking period to lessen the amperage draw on the battery. It sounds as though you may have a fault with the ignition switch or circuitry heading from the ignition switch to the starter assembly. <p>Typical failure of the starter is characterized by some noise, whether it is a grinding bendix gear against the pressure plate (flywheel) or a click from the failed solenoid. The only other thing I can think of is maybe you have just enough amperage on a low battery to make your electrical instruments and accessories appear normal, but not enough to kick the starter. <p>Being that we are in the heat of summer right now, I would be willing to guess that you've used your A/C a fair amount this summer, and the "afterblow" feature of your HVAC system (designed to dry out the airbox to prevent mold) coupled with your engine cooling fan have drawn your battery down and it could just be in need of a good recharge. That very thing happened on my 02 XC with the OE battery this spring. I've only recharged it and it has not even delivered a sluggish start since. <p>You have a 2003, it could be the 6 model-year-old battery if it is still original. You should have a 600 amp battery, if you go to the dealer for a new battery, go spend the extra $20~ on the 800 amp battery. And I would highly recommend a factory battery. Good Luck! <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> </TD></TR></TABLE><p>I certainly agree with the fact that most non-essential electrical consumers are shut down during cranking, I have a hard time with the fans being the culprit.<p>After blow runs the HVAC fan for 5 to 7 minutes, 50 minutes after shutdown. Fan is on high, drawing about 5 Amps, for a run duration of 6 minutes or 1/10 of an hour. That could accout for 0.5 Ah capacity taken from a 60 Ah battery. Not significant in my mind. <p>I have only heard the engine fan run, after shut down, for a matter of seconds, but if we gave it 1 minute, that is 1/60 of an hour, and lets give it a 10 Amp draw. That is less than 0.2 Ah on our 60 Ah battery. <p>Add to the above the fact that Volvo battery management, on the newer cars, eliminates such things as afterblow if it detects low battery voltage. I agree that Volvo software is not the most reliable, but I have actually seen this work on my 2005 V70R.<p>If there is nothing that takes place when turning the key to "start" I would expect the antenna ring, around the key, a part of the immobilizer.
Re: My R just left me high and dry? (IwantaS60R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>IwantaS60R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Auto or manual?<p>If you have an auto, then ignore the rest of my post but if manual, did you try starting without pressing the clutch? Your clutch position sensor may have gone kaput. This happened to me a few times before.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>It is a manual. I did try this because it was the first thing that I thought of after the battery was tested. The guy who tried to jump me was an electrician and he was in his van with all his voltage tools.<p>I actually do not use the AC too often.<p>The car was sitting for about 15 minutes max after the last time it was running. The battery is ruled out.<p>I do not know much about cars but my guess would have to be some sort of sensor or ignition issue.<p>This car is new to me about 1 month old (2005 with 30K miles.) I have noticed that the door locks with the remote seam to be sluggish? Not sure if it is normal or just me? Some times they do not work when I press the button. As I was waiting for the tow I realized the shopping center I was stuck in had a Radio Shack and I picked up a new battery for the fob that did nothing.<br>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>IwantaS60R</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><p>Auto or manual?<p>If you have an auto, then ignore the rest of my post but if manual, did you try starting without pressing the clutch? Your clutch position sensor may have gone kaput. This happened to me a few times before.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>It is a manual. I did try this because it was the first thing that I thought of after the battery was tested. The guy who tried to jump me was an electrician and he was in his van with all his voltage tools.<p>I actually do not use the AC too often.<p>The car was sitting for about 15 minutes max after the last time it was running. The battery is ruled out.<p>I do not know much about cars but my guess would have to be some sort of sensor or ignition issue.<p>This car is new to me about 1 month old (2005 with 30K miles.) I have noticed that the door locks with the remote seam to be sluggish? Not sure if it is normal or just me? Some times they do not work when I press the button. As I was waiting for the tow I realized the shopping center I was stuck in had a Radio Shack and I picked up a new battery for the fob that did nothing.<br>
Re: My R just left me high and dry? (Dubfound)
Sounds like you may have a hang up in your controller area network (CAN). I would first attempt to reset the electronics by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, wait a couple of minutes and reconnect- this will reset your CEM logic which will clear fault- if this is the cause.<p>I have traced an electric "fault" to my door module on passenger door. Occurs periodically and have to pull its fuse and reinsert (until I get module replaced). <p><br>Also may be this:<p>TNN37-35-2006-05-23 Title: CEM harness terminal corrosion due to water entrance in plenum<br>Various electrical function and communication symptoms may occur in M/Y 2005-2006 vehicles caused by wet corrosion in the CEM (Central Electrical Module) connector. The grommet that seals the harness entrance to the Plenum box may not seal properly if it has been incorrectly assembled. This may cause a number of different functionality symptoms and DTC's to be set. <p>Examples include but not limited to:<br>�� Headlight on, even if ignition key is taken out of ignition lock.<br>�� Warning messages in DIM (Driver's Information Module) display.<br>�� Warning lamps lit up.<br>�� Brake lights always on.<br>�� No start condition. <p>And here is some other tech info:<p>The central electronic module (CEM) (4/56) is the master unit for the immobilizer function. The central electronic module (CEM) and engine control module (ECM) are linked to each other through codes. The central electronic module (CEM) is also programmed with a code for each ignition key for the vehicle. <p>The central electronic module (CEM) transmits commands and signals to the other units in the system. The central electronic module (CEM) also approves the identity of the key. The key is checked via the antenna ring. The antenna ring is installed around the ignition switch. There is a transponder (communication circuit) in the ignition key. The identification code of the transponder is unique. The code must be learned by the central electronic module (CEM) before the key can be used to start the vehicle. This code is learned during at the factory. New keys can be added afterwards. This Tech Bulletin outlines a very detailed method of diagnosing immobilizer faults: <p>NO: 36-35 <br>DATE: 8-01-2002 <br>MODEL/YEAR: MY99- S80, MY01- S60, V70, V70XC <br>SUBJECT: Immobilizer System Information <br>CHASSIS: N/A <br>REFERENCE: N/A<p><br>The central electronic module (CEM) checks the relay for the starter motor. <p>
Sounds like you may have a hang up in your controller area network (CAN). I would first attempt to reset the electronics by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, wait a couple of minutes and reconnect- this will reset your CEM logic which will clear fault- if this is the cause.<p>I have traced an electric "fault" to my door module on passenger door. Occurs periodically and have to pull its fuse and reinsert (until I get module replaced). <p><br>Also may be this:<p>TNN37-35-2006-05-23 Title: CEM harness terminal corrosion due to water entrance in plenum<br>Various electrical function and communication symptoms may occur in M/Y 2005-2006 vehicles caused by wet corrosion in the CEM (Central Electrical Module) connector. The grommet that seals the harness entrance to the Plenum box may not seal properly if it has been incorrectly assembled. This may cause a number of different functionality symptoms and DTC's to be set. <p>Examples include but not limited to:<br>�� Headlight on, even if ignition key is taken out of ignition lock.<br>�� Warning messages in DIM (Driver's Information Module) display.<br>�� Warning lamps lit up.<br>�� Brake lights always on.<br>�� No start condition. <p>And here is some other tech info:<p>The central electronic module (CEM) (4/56) is the master unit for the immobilizer function. The central electronic module (CEM) and engine control module (ECM) are linked to each other through codes. The central electronic module (CEM) is also programmed with a code for each ignition key for the vehicle. <p>The central electronic module (CEM) transmits commands and signals to the other units in the system. The central electronic module (CEM) also approves the identity of the key. The key is checked via the antenna ring. The antenna ring is installed around the ignition switch. There is a transponder (communication circuit) in the ignition key. The identification code of the transponder is unique. The code must be learned by the central electronic module (CEM) before the key can be used to start the vehicle. This code is learned during at the factory. New keys can be added afterwards. This Tech Bulletin outlines a very detailed method of diagnosing immobilizer faults: <p>NO: 36-35 <br>DATE: 8-01-2002 <br>MODEL/YEAR: MY99- S80, MY01- S60, V70, V70XC <br>SUBJECT: Immobilizer System Information <br>CHASSIS: N/A <br>REFERENCE: N/A<p><br>The central electronic module (CEM) checks the relay for the starter motor. <p>
Re: My R just left me high and dry? (wd64)
Well when the technician got into my car today of course it started right up?! No codes were thrown or anything and the only thing he could find is that the connection to the starter was loose. I guess we will have to see and hope it wont happen again and leave me stranded.
Well when the technician got into my car today of course it started right up?! No codes were thrown or anything and the only thing he could find is that the connection to the starter was loose. I guess we will have to see and hope it wont happen again and leave me stranded.
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