I cracked my oil pan, very mildly, and found that considering the cost of labor to have it welded (removing it from the car, welding it, and then putting it back on) that it made more sense to scour the internet for a used one and just replace it. If you like I can point you in the direction of some places where you might find one. A used one cast me $150 plus $250 to have volvo install it for you. Much cheaper than $400 for a new one, or paying to have it fixed only to have to deal with it again!
I have no clue how I've cracked it, I do not recall at all scratching over any surface, anyway it is a small leak, not that it is getting wormer outside, it is leaking a little faster then before. I've JUST CALLED THE DEALER AND THEY SAID IT WOULD BE LIKE $1,100 to replace, they are out of their minds, dealer in Westport, CT....
I just talked to this local guys where I live, and he said the next time I have a couple of days off, he would drain the oil, clean the oil tank, and use some kind off compound to fix it. He said total cost will be around $200, it sounds like a deal to me...
He told me it is an Aluminum Pan, is that correct? Can you weld aluminum?
, I figure I got nothing to loose. It says it bond with Aluminum, and it resist temperature up to 500 degrees F.
I've drained all the oil, cleaned the hole from the inside with some brake cleaner, let dry over night. In the morning I got a paper towel, and tried to clean the inside of the tank from the oil drained plug. Cleaned the area outside the tank, where the crack was, and applied some J-B weld. I should be able to put oil back in my car tomorrow morning, and hopefully I'll have no more leaks….
This is from J-B weld site
Tensile Strength: 3960
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Resistant to: 500° F
Mechanics -- you can use J-B WELD with confidence. It is designed for safe, reliable, permanent repairs in engine compartments and heated environments up to 500° F. It's strong as steel and impervious to water, gasoline, chemicals, and acids. Working with J-B WELD is quick, easy, and convenient -- and saves you time, work, and money!
The only time I used JB weld was when I was patching up my exhaust on my old Suzuki motorcycle. Nothing lost there if it doesn't work. If you're going to JB weld any engine related part then be absolutely sure that you have a clean smooth surface for the stuff to adhere to.
It still can't be as bad as what we've seen Marshall Engine Remanufacturer's do. We once got a 390 Ford for a customer and it looks like they used Bondo on the head to fill in some cracks
. Didn't help that the engine was rebuilt to piece-of-crap standards in the first place.
J-B weld makes a good temporary fix... if it holds. After my pan cracked my volvo mechanic friend lifted it up, drained it, and then used J-B weld. It didn't hold the first time, then we rubbed the pan down with some solvent, sanded to give a surface that it could adhere to, and redid the J-B. Like I said, it worked, but not a good permanent fix. Just replace the unit with a cheap used one. It will cost you less than welding it only to have to deal with it again... IMO
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.