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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks all for your input on my opinion thread. Listened to my heart and went with the local 63. I really have enjoyed the last three days of driving..she's started everytime without a hitch but runs a little rich so my clothes are always highly combustable after a ride.

This is how she sat on day 1


Have already removed the front spoiler and will replace with original bumper, received today from PO. I will probably put the vto 8 spokes from ipd on fairly soon and will add another picture when the wheels and bumper are on.

Interior is fine for now with seats from BMW, droopy headliner, door panels are fine. But will plan on redoing the interior and installing rear 3pt seat belts for the kiddos. Other than that, no definate plans other than just enjoying it for awhile
 

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...she's started everytime without a hitch but runs a little rich so my clothes are always highly combustable after a ride...
Consider an immediate check for raw gas leaking from the carb{s} (with engine running), hoses, filter(s), fuel pump, etc.

Also check the fuel tank filler neck, gas cap and look under the trunk mat for any gas leaks. Ditto under the car from the tank to the fuel pump.

Thanks.

George Dill
 

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Very nice car. Those wheels and tires look good on it, but there is a chance that these tires are too much, and the wheels may not have the correct offset. If you plan to stick with them, check ball joint condition regularly. I think that if you switch to a smaller tire you may lose very little if any adhesion, yet the steering effort and life of components may go up. On my ipd car, I have the original 4.5" wide wagon or P1800 wheels and 165 tires, and while the car has excellent handling, I may be on the low end of the acceptable tire/wheel size. Volvo was recommending 5" or 5.5" wide wheels for competition work from what I recall, and I think a 185 or 195 size tire would be all you need.

Also, on the ipd set up car, a smaller steering wheel is very useful if you plan to drive the car hard. The cornering limits are much improved over stock, but when the back end gets loose, it does so rapidly, and the small steering wheel will help you catch it and control a nice and safe power slide...

I had a rich state and over-flowing carbs on my 67 due to excessive fuel pressure. A pressure regulator fixed my problem, but I have heard from this forum that a thicker fuel pump gasket can reduce the pump stroke and have similar results.

I agree about the front bumper. In traffic, the bumper is always useful. Not too long ago, a ford Exploder stopped in front of me on a small road, and then backed right into my 67 doing at least 5 mph, probably more like 10. Despite the lowered suspension and the tall bumper of the Exploder, there was no damage on my car, thanks to the over-rider bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I agree about the front bumper. In traffic, the bumper is always useful. Not too long ago, a ford Exploder stopped in front of me on a small road, and then backed right into my 67 doing at least 5 mph, probably more like 10. Despite the lowered suspension and the tall bumper of the Exploder, there was no damage on my car, thanks to the over-rider bar.
Currently trying to piece the two front bumpers together into one good one...however, it looks like the 'arms' that attach the bumper to frame are tweaked and will cause the bumper to be unlevel. What is the best way to adjust/bend these brackets for the bet fit on the car?


Does anyone have any experience with the stainless bumpers from a company called PTT in VietNam?...$350 for front bumper with $143 2-day shipping


http://www.sgbumperscar.com/Volvo Amazon US Style.htm
 

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Currently trying to piece the two front bumpers together into one good one...however, it looks like the 'arms' that attach the bumper to frame are tweaked and will cause the bumper to be unlevel. What is the best way to adjust/bend these brackets for the bet fit on the car?

Does anyone have any experience with the stainless bumpers from a company called PTT in VietNam?...$350 for front bumper with $143 2-day shipping

http://www.sgbumperscar.com/Volvo Amazon US Style.htm
The PTT bumpers have USA-base suppliers. New bumpers won't have the mounting arm included but...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-122-F...t=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

...win this bid and clean these up then get your front bumper parts straightened and re-finished local to you.

For under $300 this would put a big new smile on the '63 AND its owner!

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Recently purchased an M41 tranny (out of '68 p1800) for future replacement of my M40...still at PO's garage (he was kind enough to store it temporarily) so I can't confirm if J or D but think is D from the picture I snapped. I've read that I will need the shorter driveshaft from either the m35 or the 1800. The tranny comes with the driveshaft from the 1800, but is a 2 pc drive shaft...why 2 pcs?
 

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od swap

"Recently purchased an M41 tranny (out of '68 p1800) for future replacement of my M40...still at PO's garage (he was kind enough to store it temporarily) so I can't confirm if J or D but think is D from the picture I snapped. I've read that I will need the shorter driveshaft from either the m35 or the 1800. The tranny comes with the driveshaft from the 1800, but is a 2 pc drive shaft...why 2 pcs?"

This is the drive shaft you want. Almost direct swap. Assuming nothing has been changed, the flanges should be the same. (will mate with your differential) The only swap you might have to make is the support hanger for the center bearing.
If yours is a '63 it will have the early type center support bearing hanger with 2 grommets. You will want to remove that hanger from your drive shaft and install it on the '68 drive shaft. The later ('68) has a large rubber donut that encircles the bearing and it retained in a two part housing - part welded to the tunnel and the lower half which bolts to the tunnel. Find that retainer from a later car and you can install it in your '63 with a little work.

Two piece drive shaft to allow for rear end travel. One piece wouldn't clear the tunnel?
 

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Recently purchased an M41 tranny (out of '68 p1800) for future replacement of my M40...still at PO's garage (he was kind enough to store it temporarily) so I can't confirm if J or D but think is D from the picture I snapped. I've read that I will need the shorter driveshaft from either the m35 or the 1800. The tranny comes with the driveshaft from the 1800, but is a 2 pc drive shaft...why 2 pcs?
When you are ready for the M41 swap start a new thread so we can fill it with pertinent info.

Thanks.

George Dill
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Fixed a leaking Heater Control Valve last night with NAPA repair kit PN 660-1000. $10.83 versus ~$170 for new valve from IPD.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good show - consider pics and a write-up on your fixes so we can share wisdom with the community.

Thanks.

George Dill
Was Googling and came up with some posts on BrickBoard from PhilS back in '07 maybe? Perhaps this is our very own Phil Singher? Since I didn't take any pictures, and the Brickboard posts referred to Phil having a nice write-up, I've PM'd Phil to see if this is truly him and if he still has any info he could share. If not, I'll post instructions that came with the rebuild (a simple rubber seal) and relay lessons learned.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think I've made the back seats as safe as can be with the three point belts and, most recently, secure headrests...now for the rest of the interior....Does anyone have thoughts on the best approach fro DIY carpet set? Would be nice to have a pattern, if they exist, or should I quit being a cheapskate and purchase a set from Swedish treasures?
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Discussion Starter #15
Looks good. Does the front and rear seat upholstery match? Very nice looking car.
Thanks, Dimitri...actually the front seats are out of an E30 series BMW...comfy, but obviously don't match the original vinyl of the back seat. I did get a quote of $3500 to redo everything: seats, headliner, carpet, all panels, but since this will never be a car that warrants that type of expenditure, I'll just live with it the way it is and try to redo some things, on my own, over time.
 

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Thanks, Dimitri...actually the front seats are out of an E30 series BMW...comfy, but obviously don't match the original vinyl of the back seat. I did get a quote of $3500 to redo everything: seats, headliner, carpet, all panels, but since this will never be a car that warrants that type of expenditure, I'll just live with it the way it is and try to redo some things, on my own, over time.
are those seats a direct bolt on? no? i didn't think so. would you be so kind to share some pics of the underside to show how they are mounted?

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
are those seats a direct bolt on? no? i didn't think so. would you be so kind to share some pics of the underside to show how they are mounted?

thanks!
BM...PO did the install of the seats, but looks pretty straightforward with perhaps an adapter bracket (the black angled piece on top of the sliders in pics below)...hopefully you can get the idea from these shots with my phone:






 
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