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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My '04 SR has around 60K miles and the front struts were leaking. I went in large and replaced the 4C's, lowered with Eibachs, and installed IPD sways front and rear. I also did the LCAs and ball joints. Finally, I added H&R spacers, 10mm front and 15mm rear. I had it aligned and it looks like I will need to get camber bushings in the rear. I am at 2 degrees with the lowering springs.

Here are pics of before and after the suspension work.
Rear wheel well - Before


Rear wheel well - After


Front wheel well - Before


Front wheel well - After


Back of caR - Before


Back of caR - After


Before


After
 

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But how does it ride?
 

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looking great - awesome job!
would be even better with a front lip

I thin that most of the cars should be lowered - there's just no need to have such a huge fender gap - it looks so fugly
 

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Could you confirm what I heard that apparently sport mode is now advanced and advanced is awful?
I'm interest in buying those but I heard bad comment what about you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ride is pretty sweet. With new struts, sways and springs it better be! But I don't know how much of each is contributing.
There is still just a touch of side hop occasionally if I am cornering over bumps. The rear doesn't seem fully locked in to me. My previous car was a MINI S with sport suspension. I am not sure it is at all realistic to have go-cart handling in a car with this much more weight and wheel base. But there is no roll in the R now.

As far as the 4C settings go, I don't feel that everything has been turned up a notch like others have said. Comfort is not like a Cadillac cruiser, but c'mon, we are on 18" wheels with a low profile. What do you expect? Advanced is not too harsh IMO. I think it feels great as long as the road isn't pure sh%t.

Sent from my Lumia 900 using Board Express
 

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My '04 SR has around 60K miles and the front struts were leaking. I went in large and replaced the 4C's, lowered with Eibachs, and installed IPD sways front and rear. I also did the LCAs and ball joints. Finally, I added H&R spacers, 10mm front and 15mm rear. I had it aligned and it looks like I will need to get camber bushings in the rear. I am at 2 degrees with the lowering springs.
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the spacers and the lug bolts?
 

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Ride is pretty sweet. With new struts, sways and springs it better be! But I don't know how much of each is contributing.
There is still just a touch of side hop occasionally if I am cornering over bumps. The rear doesn't seem fully locked in to me. My previous car was a MINI S with sport suspension. I am not sure it is at all realistic to have go-cart handling in a car with this much more weight and wheel base. But there is no roll in the R now.

As far as the 4C settings go, I don't feel that everything has been turned up a notch like others have said. Comfort is not like a Cadillac cruiser, but c'mon, we are on 18" wheels with a low profile. What do you expect? Advanced is not too harsh IMO. I think it feels great as long as the road isn't pure sh%t.

Sent from my Lumia 900 using Board Express
Did you recalibrate the SUM? If not, you really should.
 

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there's just no need to have such a huge fender gap
How about ground clearance? Besides the obvious benefit in snow, there's also the huge speed bumps at the entrance to the convention center in Duluth that my exhaust (with center resonator deleted) scrapes when I drive over it in my stock ride-height S60R. I'm certain anyone lowered would probably scrape their whole underside, and if you have a body kit you'll probably destroy your side skirts. If you still have the center resonator, it will get shoved up and destroy your driveshaft.

So yeah, maybe thats a reason to have some fender gap? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get the spacers and the lug bolts?
Lugbolts from radusa.com
Spacers from 1x racing
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Looks so much better without the wheel gap. I have ran the last 75K miles with evolve springs & body kit with winglets and as long as you pay attention to where you are going, ground clearance is not an issue. You do need to be careful around parking curbs though
 

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Before you get the camber bushings I would suggest that you try it as is, watch the tire wear, and rotate tires on a regular schedule (which you should do anyway). -2 degrees isn't completely terrible and some BMWs have this much camber stock. The reason I suggest this is that you can end up with worse problems than the camber. In my case I put in the camber bushings and ended up in a situation where my toe couldn't be brought into spec. I had bad toe and good camber and it toasted the tires pretty fast. There is some relationship between camber and toe and I didn't have enough adjustment left on the toe. I finally got things straightened out by using some aftermarket toe bars in the rear which let me put the toe where I wanted.

Now, as far as I know I am the only person to run into these tow problems after lowering + camber bushings so YMMV. But I'd imagine that sample size is pretty small.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Boom goes the dynamite. Did you have a good 1xRacing experience like I did?
Yessir! I was trying to remember who posted about these two. Great prices, Good service. What more do you want? Thanks Vio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Before you get the camber bushings I would suggest that you try it as is, watch the tire wear, and rotate tires on a regular schedule (which you should do anyway). -2 degrees isn't completely terrible and some BMWs have this much camber stock. The reason I suggest this is that you can end up with worse problems than the camber. In my case I put in the camber bushings and ended up in a situation where my toe couldn't be brought into spec. I had bad toe and good camber and it toasted the tires pretty fast. There is some relationship between camber and toe and I didn't have enough adjustment left on the toe. I finally got things straightened out by using some aftermarket toe bars in the rear which let me put the toe where I wanted.

Now, as far as I know I am the only person to run into these tow problems after lowering + camber bushings so YMMV. But I'd imagine that sample size is pretty small.
Good idea. Thanks for giving me pause. If I do the math: My new Conti's cost about $800 all in. If I estimate their life at 20,000 miles that is .04/mile. If my camber eats 5000 miles out of that, it equates$200 which is the cost of the buying the camber bushings. I think you are right to just rotate frequently. I'll bet I'll get more than 20K even with the camber.
 
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