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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Vivi (a Swedish nickname for Sophia I think?) is a 2007 Sapphire Black Metalic on Gobi. She's 6 years old today by her original paperwork. So a good day to start this thread.

I got her at 48K miles, one previous owner and no noticeable wear on the any of the bushings. I bought her sight unseen two states over. The entire negotiation was done through pictures. I saw the first picture of her 4/22/2012. And I paid premium for her at just under $20K on 5/07/2012. And she was delivered to me via closed carrier on Friday 5/11/2012.

I took her to Volvo Master Mechanic Gary Trees in Riverside, CA on Monday 5/14/2012. He went through her end to end. When I picked her up Gary said she'd been broken in but never driven hard. So he did a full end to end service on her then I took her out for a 2000 miles drive up to IPD and then to Washington. She hit 150mph on the highway no problem and we even did a few spirited runs through the back roads near Battleground, WA.

I've decide to start this build thread before I get so far into the mods I can't remember what I've done. I've put a provisional ceiling of $10K in mods. But I've been known to go way beyond that in the past so who knows.

Anyway, I'm going to try and maintain this thread as her story and build thread.
 

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Nice!! Looking forward to the build.
 

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You are really gonna love this car!
 

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Nice! Can't wait to see some mods on it!
 

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48K & he pulled the Head (s) ? ? How many heads does your R have ? are you ****ing kidding me ? Really ? Some master tech. A compression test & a leak down test would of told you the Same thing. But I guess as long as your happy with paying the $.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
48K & he pulled the Head (s) ? ? How many heads does your R have ? are you ****ing kidding me ? Really ? Some master tech. A compression test & a leak down test would of told you the Same thing. But I guess as long as your happy with paying the $.
"Head", heads was a typo.

When you're paying you can get people to do the weirdest things. And I do make strangest requests. Gary said he'd do a compression check. But I wanted him to look at the valves, rings and cylinder walls for visual inspection to see how well lubed the car'd been kept. He probably thought I was nuts.

Haha!!! I'm an extremist, ...like with having my rear fenders rolled and all the fenders flared just a bit. The guy doing the work thought it was a waste of time because you can't see the flairs unless you look very close. But if you ask me, I think they came out perfect! The fender's are about 2" wider at the back and 1" wider in front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
This next weekend I'm having the angle gear pulled out. I want to see it and figure out what I want to do with it. It bothers me that the angle gear is so often referenced as "time bomb, about to go.
 

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Are you currently in FWD only?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Are you currently in FWD only?
No, I want to figure out how I want to handle this point of weakness. I'll most likely just have the collar and gear welded up and sent it out for hardening And while I'm there I may want to consider adding some sort of oil cooling to it.
 

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If you are serious a modding... and it seems you are, I would contact George at ViVA Performance and ask him about a Quaife LSD. It will add a new dimension to the performance capabilities of your RRR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you are serious a modding... and it seems you are, I would contact George at ViVA Performance and ask him about a Quaife LSD. It will add a new dimension to the performance capabilities of your RRR.
Thanks. I'll check into it.
 

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could you epoxy the sleeve to the input shaft? The only reason i say this is because the epoxy seems to hold the collar sleeve in output the of the transmission pretty well (considering it takes forever to remove it) so would it have the same bonding strength if it was between the sleeve and input shaft of the angle gear?
 

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could you epoxy the sleeve to the input shaft? The only reason i say this is because the epoxy seems to hold the collar sleeve in output the of the transmission pretty well (considering it takes forever to remove it) so would it have the same bonding strength if it was between the sleeve and input shaft of the angle gear?
That doesn't work. You don't seriously believe that epoxy would have enough strength to sustain the load rating for the input shaft? The problem with the sleeve is that it doesn't fit well(this is an understatement, it's actually a poor fit) on the input side of the angle gear, in other words, there's a bit of play. So even if you epoxy it to the shaft, that epoxy will break as soon as there is a decent amount of torque applied to it. I would be more concerned of the epoxy debris, as it may start accelerating the wear on the sleeve itself acting as the abrasive material.
 

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Haha!!! I'm an extremist, ...like with having my rear fenders rolled and all the fenders flared just a bit. The guy doing the work thought it was a total waist of time because you can't see the flairs unless you look very close. But if you ask me, I think they came out perfect! The fender's are about 2" wider at the back and 1" wider in front.
If this is for your R, I'd like to see those pics :)
 

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That doesn't work. You don't seriously believe that epoxy would have enough strength to sustain the load rating for the input shaft? The problem with the sleeve is that it doesn't fit well(this is an understatement, it's actually a poor fit) on the input side of the angle gear, in other words, there's a bit of play. So even if you epoxy it to the shaft, that epoxy will break as soon as there is a decent amount of torque applied to it. I would be more concerned of the epoxy debris, as it may start accelerating the wear on the sleeve itself acting as the abrasive material.
There are some pretty insane epoxies out there.
 

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There are some pretty insane epoxies out there.
IDK, to sustain a driveshaft kick torque... if our wheels produce est. 300 torque, imagine the torque it took to create that starting at the angle gear.

I agree with DevolvR, epoxy will not work. If you remember the method shown here in a thread for a long while ago, drilling a hole, etching the shaft and welding through the hole straight to the shaft and welding the hole - short of drilling a hole all the way through and putting a tempered steel rod (like a cotter pin of sort) the weld seems the strongest solution.
 

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"Head", heads was a typo.

When you're paying you can get people to do the weirdest things. And I do make strangest requests. Gary said he'd do a compression check. But I wanted him to look at the valves, rings and cylinder walls for visual inspection to see how well lubed the car'd been kept. He probably thought I was nuts.

Haha!!! I'm an extremist, ...like with having my rear fenders rolled and all the fenders flared just a bit. The guy doing the work thought it was a total waist of time because you can't see the flairs unless you look very close. But if you ask me, I think they came out perfect! The fender's are about 2" wider at the back and 1" wider in front.
ok ojs, how much did it cost you to check it this thoroughly? and did you actually see it with the head off?


also do you have pics of this? Setrab Oil & Trans Cooler :)
 

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If you remember the method shown here in a thread for a long while ago, drilling a hole, etching the shaft and welding through the hole straight to the shaft and welding the hole - short of drilling a hole all the way through and putting a tempered steel rod (like a cotter pin of sort) the weld seems the strongest solution.
The JanHagis method of welding the input shaft by drilling several holes through the input shaft and sleeve works. This permanently bonds both metals together and likely can sustain several hundreds or even thousands of pounds of torque depending on the weld material being used. Of course, his method is not for the faint at heart, his method was a win-win situation as both his sleeve and angle gear were shot. So by doing so, he permanently fixed both items together without any additional costs other than drilling holes and welding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok ojs, how much did it cost you to check it this thoroughly? and did you actually see it with the head off?


also do you have pics of this? Setrab Oil & Trans Cooler :)
The total bill was about $1400. But that included flushing and replacing fluids and a few other things I don't remember. Why do you ask?

Oh, and no, I didn't see the head off. I've been using this same mechanic since 1985ish.
 
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