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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after my new suspension was put in I began to hear a clunk coming from the front passenger side. I think it is my control arm bushing but I want your insight before I start ordering parts. Would this make the clunk noise?

There is a shiny part and I think thats where the noise is coming from










also, how easy are these to fix? does it involve another alignment?
 

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i would say stut bearing. the control arm bushing wouldnt clunk. would create crabbing or soft ride. Can get the whole arm with busing and ball joint for 120 from oreily. lifetime warranty.

clunk to me would say strut bearing, sway bar or motor mount
 

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In the past people have talk about end-links going bad. However end links get mostly active when one tires is bumped or raised more so then the other. That's just a way to eliminate end-links as an issue.
If the clunk is when going over a bump on one side or while turning right or left then it could be end-links.

Next I know is engine mount but that I don't know when you would hear a clunk noise from it.
 

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If you hit the brakes abruptly and hear a thud or knock then it is likely lower control arm bushings. It is hard to tell from the pics but it looks like you may have cracks in the rubber. If they are bad, consider replacing the entire arms. They come with ball joints mounted and are fairly easy (3 bolts and ball joint nut). IPD has the arms for about $100 each. Make sure to match your VIN. The ball joint shaft is different on later models.
Stan
 

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i agree with TG on this one. $5 it's your end links.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You bring up a great point, before my suspension upgrade I was having a problem of a clunk whenever I turned but I thought it would be fixed with new axle bolts. Since the suspension has been changed, the sound when turning went away but they new clunk is when I go over a bump. It isn't a real loud clunk but does sound really trashy and abrupt. Ill look into getting new end links..
 

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Your bushing is obviously torn & the control arm is hitting the side as indicated by the shiny area. You may have bad links as well but those arms need to be replaced regardless. Your car really isn't aligned properly if the setting keeps moving around while you're driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
so do you think I could get away with just new bushings or a whole new control arm? I might just revamp my whole suspension and get em done on both sides
 

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so do you think I could get away with just new bushings or a whole new control arm? I might just revamp my whole suspension and get em done on both sides
I went with the entire arm figuring with over 100k miles the ball joints would be going before long too. I did find the seals torn and the joints a little lose. The bushings are pressed in so I also figured it easier to replace the entire arms. As i mentioned above, IPD has the arms for about $100 each. It seems like the logical choice and your suspension will be golden. For end links, look at FCP Euro Myle hd links. They are much beefier than Stock.
Stan
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will bad end links cause vibrations down the road or is that from the bushing

also, do I have to get the car aligned if I install new end links?
 

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Will bad end links cause vibrations down the road or is that from the bushing

also, do I have to get the car aligned if I install new end links?
No vibration whatsoever from bad endlink, bushings only.
Alignment for endlinks only? No
 

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No vibration whatsoever from bad endlink, bushings only.
Alignment for endlinks only? No
+1

though bushings isn't the only thing you get vibration from ;)
 

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This "Clunk Noise" was something I had to deal with over the past year or so. Here are the things I tried to figure out were possibilities.
1) Control arms - do not attempt to replace the bushings, there is no way to pull the bushings out of the control arms unless you have a "welding torch," to cut through the metal sleeve inside. A puller will not work neither will a Press. I've tried both and there is no way to do that. The rubber material inside the bushing is somehow mated with the internal and external metal sleeves. You are just better off buying a control arm from Rock Auto. If you are not tracking or raising your vehicle, Deeza sells them relatively inexpensive. The only issue with them is that they oversprayed the internal grooves of the mounting nuts with paint so when you are putting back your OEM bolts its a super bitch. The right passenger side control arms are harder than the driver's side. The front bushing bolt must be threaded past air conditioning pipe lines. You do not have to remove your axles. You do need a ball joint spreader that can be had from Harbor Freight for about $8.00.
2) End Links - these are easy to replace. Make sure when you replace them that when you put the lower link you first put weight on the vehicle by replacing the tires and reassuring that the steering wheel is as straight as possible. You have to reach behind the tire to find the lower end link and then push it through the front sway bar mounting hole.
3) Front sway bar / anti-roll bar or bushings - look at my post about this. Tire rack has Mazdaspeed 3 Hotchkis front and rear for $395.00. You need to drop the subframe. You do not need to remove the subframe as indicated by the Volvo Manual. Hotchkis has clear and specific directions on how to accomplish this. The directions are for a Mazdaspeed 3, but it is exactly like the Volvo S40 T5. The only difference is when putting the front sway bar mounting bushing bracket on our subframe is that you will need 2 washers per bolt beneath the bracket. That's because there is no boss on the S40 subframe as compared to the Mazdaspeed 3 which creates a small height difference on the mounting point. Otherwise the OEM bolts will suffice.
THERE IS NO CLUNK NOISE ANYMORE!
 

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This "Clunk Noise" was something I had to deal with over the past year or so. Here are the things I tried to figure out were possibilities.
1) Control arms - do not attempt to replace the bushings, there is no way to pull the bushings out of the control arms unless you have a "welding torch," to cut through the metal sleeve inside. A puller will not work neither will a Press. I've tried both and there is no way to do that. The rubber material inside the bushing is somehow mated with the internal and external metal sleeves. You are just better off buying a control arm from Rock Auto. If you are not tracking or raising your vehicle, Deeza sells them relatively inexpensive. The only issue with them is that they oversprayed the internal grooves of the mounting nuts with paint so when you are putting back your OEM bolts its a super bitch. The right passenger side control arms are harder than the driver's side. The front bushing bolt must be threaded past air conditioning pipe lines. You do not have to remove your axles. You do need a ball joint spreader that can be had from Harbor Freight for about $8.00.
2) End Links - these are easy to replace. Make sure when you replace them that when you put the lower link you first put weight on the vehicle by replacing the tires and reassuring that the steering wheel is as straight as possible. You have to reach behind the tire to find the lower end link and then push it through the front sway bar mounting hole.
3) Front sway bar / anti-roll bar or bushings - look at my post about this. Tire rack has Mazdaspeed 3 Hotchkis front and rear for $395.00. You need to drop the subframe. You do not need to remove the subframe as indicated by the Volvo Manual. Hotchkis has clear and specific directions on how to accomplish this. The directions are for a Mazdaspeed 3, but it is exactly like the Volvo S40 T5. The only difference is when putting the front sway bar mounting bushing bracket on our subframe is that you will need 2 washers per bolt beneath the bracket. That's because there is no boss on the S40 subframe as compared to the Mazdaspeed 3 which creates a small height difference on the mounting point. Otherwise the OEM bolts will suffice.
THERE IS NO CLUNK NOISE ANYMORE!
Is that febi bushing i postef he same bushing you mentioned?
 

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The bushing on the control arm is the same bushing as with the FEBI in the picture. I don't know why some people sell them separately for the S40 since its not removable at all.
 

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The bushing on the control arm is the same bushing as with the FEBI in the picture. I don't know why some people sell them separately for the S40 since its not removable at all.
Thats bad...I thought the removal of the bad bushing is just by the sliding out and then install back the mentioned FEBi replacement.
 
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