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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My build update

All the parts came back yesterday from the Cryogenic Lab. Everything is now 60% stronger than the OEM stuff. The rods are about 80 grams lighter. The 9.0:1 pistons should be here any day now. The new improved cylinder head with all the porting was finished last week and it also had the Cryo done. The Cylinder head is going to the Ceramic guys today, to be completely done in Ceramic Coating. I should have pictures of the Ceramic head by the end of the week.

Pics:

The engine parts back from Cryo (Valves and springs in the white box).



Exhaust Runner and Dog Leg bored out, gasket matched and polished.



Both the Exhaust and Intake bowls were opened up



Intake bowl was opened up and the runner left alone. Improved air disturbance was what we were looking at. Helps the fuel ignite faster



Intake runner was gasket matched

 

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looks good man!!
did you decide on a snail yet or are you just going to run the k24 for a bit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
looks good man!!
did you decide on a snail yet or are you just going to run the k24 for a bit?
Going to run the hybrid a bit. It comes in later on the boost. Should be a nice mix for a while.

The car should run a bit faster with the 9.0:1. Talked to the builder for a while and discussed how worried I was. He said the .5 change wont matter with the cooling properties that I added... Cryo, porting, Ceramic coating everywhere will help take away the knock. The best part is I should pick up a few MPG.
 

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The best part is I should pick up a few MPG.
LOL, I can see the new thread for justifying an engine build. Thousands of dollars but, hey I picked up some MPG. :p The ceramic coating sounds like it's gonna look sick. Looking forward to seeing that hotness.
 

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Awesome list of parts :D Where are you getting the pistons from? I'll be looking for 9.0:1 for a 2.4L block eventually. Also, how did you drop the weight on the rods? Any additional work to the crank (which is already supposed to be lighter and more balanced than non-R motors)? Hollow/filled or stock valves?

Just humor me on this one though... the issues with the "R" motors is the thin cylinder walls, and the accumulation of heat around them, as there are not enough cooling channels in the head. As I'm sure you haven't added any additional cooling channels, what exactly is helping to "cool" the block over stock (what are the "cooling properties" you mentioned)? It hasn't been sleeved or dropped to a smaller bore, right?

Regardless, this is complete awesomeness, and as you well know, 9.0:1 is the ideal place to be. This thread makes me happy. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
LOL, I can see the new thread for justifying an engine build. Thousands of dollars but, hey I picked up some MPG. :p The ceramic coating sounds like it's gonna look sick. Looking forward to seeing that hotness.
lol, maybe not the best part, but...

Cryo Engines see more horsepower/torque plus better MPG. It's simple put as a more efficient engine due to how the metal molecules are realigned.

More info: http://www.torquecars.com/tuning/cryogenic-treatments.php

Graphs:


http://www.nwcryo.com/motorsports.html

Then you add in the fact that high compression engines see a higher MPG, plus ceramic coated engines run cooler... to tell you the truth, I'm anticipating high 30's per mpg, with the foot off the aggressive boost. I was seeing peak 35mpg before the engine rebuild, wouldn't be outside the realm in the high 30's.

Awesome list of parts :D Where are you getting the pistons from? I'll be looking for 9.0:1 for a 2.4L block eventually. Also, how did you drop the weight on the rods? Any additional work to the crank (which is already supposed to be lighter and more balanced than non-R motors)? Hollow/filled or stock valves?

Just humor me on this one though... the issues with the "R" motors is the thin cylinder walls, and the accumulation of heat around them, as there are not enough cooling channels in the head. As I'm sure you haven't added any additional cooling channels, what exactly is helping to "cool" the block over stock (what are the "cooling properties" you mentioned)? It hasn't been sleeved or dropped to a smaller bore, right?

Regardless, this is complete awesomeness, and as you well know, 9.0:1 is the ideal place to be. This thread makes me happy. :D
I'm letting the builder get the pistons. I know George at Viva stocks Forged piston and rods.The only reason I didn't get them from George is that I didn't want to be the middle man between the builder figuring out what I needed in size and having George get the order to him. I would highly recommend George if you know the size and what you need. Really in short, the builder is orchestrating between the parts, cryo, ceramics and machining... and I'd be slowing it down if I stepped in.

My builder is on youtube and he goes by the name Fiatnutz. He has a few videos on reducing the weight of the rod. I may be wrong on the grams, since I was in and out yesterday to take pictures and drop off the old oil pan... then a 2 hour drive home. But, Several ways to reduce them, here are a few:




As far as the cylinder walls... one of the keys you're missing is Cryogenics. Engine cryogenic parts are 60% stronger, run cooler and more efficient. The other part is the ceramic coating on both manifolds that reduce 2200 degrees to 110 degrees. We found this out after I just had the exhaust system overhauled with ceramic coatings... including the entire turbo. I was grabbing the turbo and pipe with my bare hand after 30 minutes of WOT driving... that's just how cooler it runs. We took readings in the whole exhaust track and never found a spot above 130. Now add that to the entire cylinder head, piston heads, valve heads and oil pan. With the manifolds not able to conduct or transfer heat, nor the head, means the charged air runs cooler and the chamber itself is a bit cooler. Heat is distributed better over a wide area. You also don't develop hot spots that trigger pre-detonation.

In the explanation I posted earlier in the compression thread, does show that one for one, the high compression engine will run a tad bit hotter, because we are choosing a high compression ratio, rather than the high boost. But, after discussion with the builder, it's the belief that the bigger more efficient FMIC I have, plus all the cooling properties, that the car will run cooler or at worst, the same as before. Don't forget I have the A-mist system which will also pull heat from the walls.

The valves are OEM. I was going with Ferrea valves, but they we so bad with e-mails and didn't every respond. I found out the OEM has a sodium filled center that helps with longevity. I had them sent to the Cryo lab, so they are now 60% stronger. In the end, the Cryo OEM valves are probably the route to go.... and I know that's the route Boosted took in his VMS engine.

I'm hoping the 9.0:1 is the sweet spot. Definitely biting my nails.
 

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I think 9:1 is the generally accepted "sweet spot" of most high HP turbo builds, so rest assured. ;)

I do have some questions/concerns about your ceramic treatment, however. The concept behind the ceramic coatings is to help insulate parts and KEEP heat from escaping. You want to run your turbo and exhaust as hot as you can, so your ceramic coating will keep the heat localized to the turbo-back and insulated from the rest of the world. However, you say that you're doing this to the rest of your block/head? Treating your entire intake mani would be similar to using an isolating gasket I suppose, but how do you figure that treating the head/block will make things run cooler?! Maybe to the external observer, hitting it with an IR thermometer will make things appear cooler, but all that heat is kept inside of the block and not escaping/dissipating, thus running hotter. THAT is where my concern lies.

There have been a number of members/lurkers here who have cracked their blocks, stock and modified; many more than you may think. In this small world, I have TWO blown motors adorning my foyer (well, three really, but just two with cracked blocks). I am obviously not trying to rain on anyone's parade, as I envy your build. I simply don't want you and your machine shop to overlook a known flaw. I truly hope that I (and others) are wrong.

Regardless, you have provided and continue to contribute a wealth of information yet seen on this forum. I will definitely continue to take notes and add some of what I've learned here to my [eventual] build :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Ceramic Coating on the cylinder head was complete and the valve job was completed. The shop didn't ceramic coat the valves, so I ended up having the shop send those out on Monday. When they come back this week, they'll slide back in and the head will be complete. New Exhaust manifold comes back from the ceramic coaters this monday. Pistons are in the que for coating.

Latest shots from today's visit:

Chopped up old head cover so that we had a template to do the valve job



Ceramic coated cylinder head, love the fresh decking job... pics don't do it justice







Ceramic was done to the dome and through out the exhaust side



 

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Killer B....I am decently mechanically inclined but the fact that I have NO idea what those parts are (well sorta but still) is pretty impressive man. I am upset about my axle bearings coming apart and me trying to get the half shaft back together. Meanwhile...you've got an R motor torn all apart at your place....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Killer B....I am decently mechanically inclined but the fact that I have NO idea what those parts are (well sorta but still) is pretty impressive man. I am upset about my axle bearings coming apart and me trying to get the half shaft back together. Meanwhile...you've got an R motor torn all apart at your place....
Part your looking at with the ceramic is #2 upside down



The opening post is #1 & #27. Number 27 goes in between the two #1 parts.
 

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Yup.....just as confused as I was 2 minutes ago!!!
 

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Just so's you know, I'm going to shamelessly steal and copy your ideas. :D Simply an awesome build man!!!! :thumbup:

-Steve
 

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Talk about super hot engine PORN!!!! Love it!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Should have more photos this week. Pistons were suppose to be in last week, but it seem JE was overloaded with NASCAR stuff. Valves came back yesterday from the Ceramic Coaters.

George got out the order of ARP studs, NGK cold sparks, Vacuum lines and Gasket. IPD got out the order of 3 Oil filters, Oil seals and other seals yesterday. Rounding the corner to finishing this week if the pistons come in.

Getting ready to go get a couple of cases of Royal Purple Break-In Mineral Oil
 

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I can never find the 'like' button on this forum...

-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think it's time for some more pic's... what do you guys think? :)

New toys in this week



ARP studs



The old pistons were used for JE to pop out a 9.0:1 compression piston. You can see how cooked they were... melted around the edges.





NASCAR stuff slowed down last week, so JE did the new molds and popped out a new set of forged pistons. The shop got them yesterday and sent them to the ceramic coaters. I took pictures of the info and specs. My machinist will snap pictures when they come back.







Intake Valves





Exhaust Valves

 
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