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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


So you’ve seen my thread about my replacement white 855R but I don’t think I started one for my black 97 855R!

This is a 97 850R wagon. Has 355k on the odometer as of August of 2019.

Engine is stock, but has been M56 swapped back at around 200k. I daily this car during the nice months, but I don’t like to drive it in the winter.

Mods so far:

V70 hatch with spoiler with 3rd brake light
Plastidipped roof since the original clear has failed

Powerflex torque mount and top mount bushings (all 4)

94 850 subframe with Delrin subframe bushings
93 aluminum control arms with power flex black control arm bushings
IPD sways and links
IPD springs
Bilstein HD shocks and struts
C70 convertible subframe brace
Ultra Racing front and rear strut braces

DO88 silicone coolant hoses (all 8)

302s in the front, braided stainless hoses all around

IPD skid plate

Mods on hand, waiting to install:
DO88 radiator, intercooler, RIP kit
2004 C70 subframe - aluminum bushings
1998 C70 delta link - its a little bit wider
A set of Nebulas

Honestly this is the most fun car I’ve ever owned to drive.

My drive to and from work runs about 120 miles a day. So, I just keep racking up the miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Some of the issues the car has that I need to address.....

Oil consumption. I go through a quart a week or so. I’ve fixed the leaks, so it’s being burned. Is the turbo worn out? Is it the valve stem seals? Maybe it’s both! I check the dipstick every fill up and usually end up adding a quart every 2nd fill.

If the car idles very long, it smokes grey out the exhaust a lot. It’s more than a little embarrassing.

Oil pressure. Occasionally, the oil light flickers in the dash. Just for a second or two and goes out. I’m told the oil pan may need to be dropped and ‘de sludged’ and resealed.

This is an interesting problem for me for sure. I can’t decide whether I should drop the pan, do all the work, slap on a rebuilt cylinder head and maybe a slightly larger turbo and drive on, or do an engine swap.

If I swap, I have at least 3 choices.

1. The engine from my totaled 97 850R wagon, a ~175k N engine that had a bit of a lifter tick. Pan has never been dropped. I did rebuild the head at about 130k due to a burnt valve, but I used fel pro valve stem seals and a reinz head gasket kit. So it either needs the pan resealed, some lifters replaced, and potentially a head swap to get OE gaskets in the engine
2. A B5244T5 / K24 combo from an 06 s60 t5. Combo has roughly 100k on it.
3. A B5244T5 / K24 / FWD M66 combo from an 07 S60 T5M I own, around 170k miles. Car is a salvage car I considered rebuilding but decided against.
4. Some other engine I haven’t found / pulled / bought yet :)

I’m struggling with which option to choose. The 2nd gear synchros are also on the way out, sometimes pops out of gear when cornering. It’s been that way for the last 40k though. So, either a replacement m56, or ideally that M66, would make sense at the same time.

Until the white 850r is drivable, I don’t expect to even consider doing the swap.

And, there’s part of me who says fix the original engine and see how long it lasts as a tribute to Volvos longevity.
 

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I’m confused by the c70 subframe. You have a much better setup in the car already. Why change it?

Oil consumption is likely all seals. Turbo, valve stems, maybe rings but these engines stay tight in that regard most of the time.

Your suggested engine swap possibilities leave a lot to be desired in terms of ancillary supporting mods or value to work/money.

If it were my project, I would source a new trans. Easy. Check compression. If good, roll with that block. Dump the subframe with driveline on it and work on it out of the car. New CHRA, separately source and refresh/maybe port a N head. Keep it decently stock so it’s not a Frankenstein, fix the tired bits with better than new and then just drive it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I’m confused by the c70 subframe. You have a much better setup in the car already. Why change it.
The c70 subframe I pulled because the rear trans mount I got for the m66 uses the 4 bolt control arm subframe. I agree the 2 bolt control arms are superior. I just didn’t know any other way to make it all bolt up.
 

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The c70 subframe I pulled because the rear trans mount I got for the m66 uses the 4 bolt control arm subframe. I agree the 2 bolt control arms are superior. I just didn’t know any other way to make it all bolt up.
Oh you got a m66?
 

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I'd be more inclined to fab up a mount than to swap the 4-bolt subframe, personally.
 

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The c70 subframe I pulled because the rear trans mount I got for the m66 uses the 4 bolt control arm subframe. I agree the 2 bolt control arms are superior. I just didn’t know any other way to make it all bolt up.
Since the m66 doesn’t get you anything besides a weaker 1/R and an extra gear in the same spread and a major mounting hassle, why bother?

M66w requires a 23 spline clutch and a $550 single mass or even more expensive dual mass.

M66W (T5)
FDR = 4.00:1
1st = 3.39:1
2nd = 1.91:1
3rd = 1.27:1
4th = 0.95:1
5th = 0.78:1
6th = 0.70:1

I’d suggest a M56 LK from a 01 p2t5. Bolts up, 21 spline allowing 850r clutch, p80 smf.

M56LK
FDR = 4.00:1
1st = 3.38:1
2nd = 1.91:1
3rd = 1.19:1
4th = 0.91:1
5th = 0.70:1

Gonna be just as fast in 1, 2, 3rd will top out at 94 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, at nearly 360k, the oil pressure got worse, so a more immediate fix was required. And because I work all the time.... a mechanic friend came to the rescue!

Subframe dropped



Pan removed



Piece of paper in the pickup. Need to cut open the filter and see if this came out of the filter!



O-ring for the oil pickup also was failed, that pic won’t upload for some reason.

C70 subframe and new Lemfoerder control arms are being installed at the moment, along with a good 16t. Hoping that fixes a lot of the consumption problem - but won’t know until it’s back on the road. Supposed to be finished this weekend!

Been driving an 05 XC70 this week as a loaner. Interesting car. Has some charms to it for sure, but it lacks that essential p80 charm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·


Today’s project... radiator decided to blow out the seal on the passenger side tank last night at 1 AM.

Thankfully it happened a half mile or less from home and I was able to limp it home.



Thankfully, I had a Nissen rad on the shelf that I’d picked up for another project and not needed. Install was fairly quick and painless.

I also have a DO88 radiator and intercooler setup on the shelf for this car, but need to change my intake out for a NA intake first as my RIP kit is for the larger throttle body. Didn’t have time for that today, so I had to go the other route.
 

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Has some charms to it for sure, but it lacks that essential p80 charm...
Gotta drive the right P2 before P2s make any sense. I didn't get it till I drove my S60. I wasn't that excited about even bothering to go look at it, but I was hooked within the first block of driving it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·


Got a flat the other day. Really starting to regret selling the 9 extra Volans I had in 2017!

Guess the next ones I find, I keep. And in the meantime, I better find another spare for this car in case I decide to drive it before spring!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It’s nearly springtime here, and I am ready to get the black car back on the road.

Found a pretty dang nice Volans wheel at a salvage yard for $100. Replaced the cracked one. Threw 2 new tires on the rear.

Spent a good 2 hours cleaning out the interior, trying to freshen things up a bit from kids riding in the car over the last couple years.

Went to pop the hood to check the oil, and the passenger side won’t release. It’s been a bit flaky over the last 6 months, either lifting the hood while pulling the release, or holding the passenger side down, it would release. Now nothing.

Don’t wanna drive it til I check all the fluids.

So, what’s my next step? I’m not sure I can get the car lifted up high enough in my driveway to try and pop the lever on the latch.

Maybe break the corner lens out and try to trip it through the hole the wires come through?

I’m wondering if the cable broke... any sage advice if you’ve been there?

Once I get in, I need to decide what is getting done to this car this year....
 

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Does this help? Maybe work carefully.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHx9PoQ3BLU
It’s nearly springtime here, and I am ready to get the black car back on the road.

Found a pretty dang nice Volans wheel at a salvage yard for $100. Replaced the cracked one. Threw 2 new tires on the rear.

Spent a good 2 hours cleaning out the interior, trying to freshen things up a bit from kids riding in the car over the last couple years.

Went to pop the hood to check the oil, and the passenger side won’t release. It’s been a bit flaky over the last 6 months, either lifting the hood while pulling the release, or holding the passenger side down, it would release. Now nothing.

Don’t wanna drive it til I check all the fluids.

So, what’s my next step? I’m not sure I can get the car lifted up high enough in my driveway to try and pop the lever on the latch.

Maybe break the corner lens out and try to trip it through the hole the wires come through?

I’m wondering if the cable broke... any sage advice if you’ve been there?

Once I get in, I need to decide what is getting done to this car this year....
 

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One of the latches was hanging up on my T5 recently.

Do you have a helper that could pull the release while you push/pull on the hood? Could just be sticky and need some assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
One of the latches was hanging up on my T5 recently.

Do you have a helper that could pull the release while you push/pull on the hood? Could just be sticky and need some assistance.
Yes, one of my kids helped me yesterday. I don’t know if the cable broke or it’s just sticking, but it doesn’t want to open. I tried pushing and pulling. I tried wedging something in there to lift it while I pulled too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, after a rough day at work, I decided to give the hood release a closer look. Was determined to get in, whatever the cost may be....

So, I pulled the lever inside the car, heard 2 clicks instead of the usual one, and it was open! Didn’t have to do any contortionist things or break that turn signal lens out. I did give the latch a good spritz of silicone spray and cycled it several times with a screwdriver before I closed the hood again. It came open 4 more times tonight with no issues, fingers crossed.

Inspected the cables and the ends are intact and undamaged. The one running from side to side seems like it might be a little stretched? I’ll grab one at the salvage yard.

Topped the oil off, fired right up and I noticed some oil on the front of the engine. Noticed bubbles blowing around the dipstick tube. The car passed a glove test in late fall / early winter, so I’ll replace the dip stick o-ring and test again.

I’ve got a NA intake manifold and 960 throttle puck for this car, so if I need to pull the intake to change the PCV, it’ll be a nice upgrade to throw on.

Also noticed the CarPlay radio I installed last fall is dead as a door nail. Fuse under the hood is good. I’ll pop it out and see if it’s fuse is good. If it is, it has a 1 year warranty and I guess I send it off. Or upgrade. Maybe both as the pioneer in my other wagon really makes the power acoustic head unit seem kinda crappy.



Filled the tank.



Also threw a bit of an interior detail job on the car. Not 100% happy but it’s light years better than it was.



I’ve missed shifting gears :)
 

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Glad you were able to get it open with minimal fuss, eventually.

I'm looking forward to when I can get the manual swapped into my T5.
 

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John - if I’m ever lucky enough to have a true daily I want that tag! Didn’t notice until today. Nice job on the car, and the hood open. You’re right- it was a 70 not and 850.
 
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