[11110000]

K-cammed, that is. Oh, how sweet! It really added a growl to the exhaust note, and the lumpy idle just adds to the experience. This thing has much more punch over 3K RPM now, really pulling hard from 4K to the redline. There is a little less torque down below 2K, but not so much that I'll miss it. I didn't get to really wring it out, since its raining/sleeting right now, but I can tell you I'm a happy camper.

I didn't even have to adjust the shims. I put in the new cam, torqued it down, and measured 0.015" on six of the lifters, 0.017" on the other two. How's that for quality Swedish steel?

 

[[email protected]]

So it really made a noticeable difference huh?

 

[11110000]

Yeah, it really did. It just feels right to me having the engine pull hard to the redline, rather than running out of breath at 4K RPM. Its got a smooth torque spread, so it doesn't give you a sudden rush like a turbo or variable cam system, it just pulls harder.

I've got to get used to the feel of the new cam, the new clutch and the new Kumhos all at once now! What a hard life...

 

[towerymt]

Cam timing straight up, right? I just recently bought a used VX3. I expect it will be great with a manual trans, but it would probably take some tuning with a cam gear on an auto. Now that I know of two B23F engines with a K cam & M46, I don't think there will be any down side to a slightly less aggresive cam (as long as it passes emissions!).

I just had a (clogged) cat converter replaced about a week ago, and all the sudden the exhaust is throaty at idle and I can actually hear it from inside the car! It feels like I gained 5+HP back.

 

[11110000]

Yeah, with a manual, it really only makes things better. An automatic - I imagine you'd have to enjoy rolling starts more than standing starts, or adjust the timing. I have the cam timed straight up. I took it out today for a real shakedown run, and I must say I am impressed. There are a number of 2-lane 55MPH backroads around here with ample passing zones. And a number of people who drive about 5 - 10MPH under the limit. Passing power is really great - just drop it in third and punch it! Second gear is enough to break the rear end loose in tight corners, even with my 225s! Now maybe I could use a 3.73 rear end (currently 3.31).

I'm still working on the pics - I did some cosmetic work on the valve cover that might be of interest too.

 

[towerymt]

quote:

Originally posted by 11110000:
Second gear is enough to break the rear end loose in tight corners, even with my 225s!

That's a lot of fun. I like to enter corners kind of slow in 2nd gear and then accelerate through them at full throttle. Just have to watch out for the loose sand left over from snow. I've been trying to drift a lot more lately because I don't care about my tires, since they'll be replaced soon.

quote:

Now maybe I could use a 3.73 rear end (currently 3.31).

Me too. That's the one I'd get since it's so easy to find a B230F/AW70 combo. The 3.54 isn't worth the effort.

quote:

I did some cosmetic work on the valve cover that might be of interest too.

Sure. I'd like to do something with mine because it has wear marks from the plastic piece that separates the plug wires. It rested on the top of the valve cover and wore through the finish. I need to find wires that will fit like the ones on this car.

 

[ChrisKC240]

hi all...

i know i;m not really helping the original poster of this topic, so i want to apoligize for that first. but i have a few questions...

i must have missed something, or just not paid much atention. but what is a K-cam? i've heard of vx, i'm not that shelterd. but whats the difference? and changing the rear gears? i didnt think they made many choices for the diff. unless its custom, but its not is it?

i also have a few thoughts on the xc 245. i like the ideas on springs, but i definetely think that you'll need some sway bars. no way is it going to be any fun on stock ones.

good luck.

 

[ChrisKC240]

oops... i got my topics cinfused. sorry. you can just disregard the 245 xc comments....

 

[11110000]

The K-cam was offered in the Canadian B23E. With the 'big' 405 head and K-Jet injection, it put out 136HP. It offers much more lift and duration (and overlap) than the M-cam. By comparison, the VX cam sacrifices a little bit of raw power for a more refined idle and lower emissions.

Basically, the cam moves the torque peak up to 4500RPM. You get a lumpy idle, and you probably can't pass emissions testing, but it sure is fun.

240s have Dana 30 rear ends, same as many Jeeps. They were offered with a 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 3.91 and 4.10 from the factory, depending on model year, engine and tranny.

 

[towerymt]

cam = duration | lift (intake/exhaust)

M = 232/230 | .374/.413
T = 225/218 | .409/.399

A = 241/240 | .413/.413
B = 244/245 | .417/.417

VX3= 245/236 | .448/.419

Unitek 256 = 256/256 | .469/.469 (Phase 1)

K = 253/250 | .471/.471
H = 258/254 | .472/.452

The M & T are stock cams that are horrible for performance, but decent for low end torque and daily driving. The A & B are a step up, good for slightly better performance. The VX3 starts to compromise low end torque if not advanaced. The K & H are at the top for performance from an OEM Volvo cam, but they will sacrifice low end for the screaming high RPM power. The Unitek Phase 1 cam is supposed to have a wide power band, but it's impossible to find any dyno results. If I had any way to verify the good things everyone says about the Phase 1, I might think about spending the money for one (~$350). However, a used VX3 (mine was $120), K (~$50 on ebay), or even an A cam (~$50) from a Canadian B21A is a much better deal.