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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a bit of a mystery that I believe stems from a mount bushing problem somewhere.

Here are the symptoms:

1) Upon turning the car off there is a shutter that a friend (accurately) describes as the "pee shivers".
2) When in 6th gear, the stick moves when I go on and off the accelerator pedal.
3) 1st and 2nd are a bit tough to get in most of the time. Sometimes they're smooth as silk, but the majority of the time there's some resistance.

What I've done so far:
-New upper engine and lower trans torque mounts (Thank you, IPD). The bushings were bad on both, so this helped a little bit.
-Changed Transmission oil. Everything feels more smooth, except 1st and 2nd initially getting in.
-Checked my shifter cables and they appear to be seated correctly.

My transmission shop diagnosed from a description over the phone that the cause is stretched shifter cables, which they claim cannot be adjusted and are a dealer-only replacement. I thought they could be adjusted, so that made me question their knowledge of the R and Volvos in general.

Are there any other mounts I could check/change that could potentially be causing this? Maybe it's a bushing somewhere under the spaceball? Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
^^ I thought of that as a potential fix, but I like the feel of the stock throw. I probably would do it if I knew it would fix the problems.
 

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The "pee shivers" thing needs better description. DO you mean when engine shuts down the car shakes?
If so the front and rear engine mounts are hydraulic damped and when they age they settle and pass more vibes. It is a slow decay thing and often when they are replaced you notice a big difference. The mounts have limiter cables wrapped around them and when the cable is really bowed away from the sides of mount that indicates collapse. The problem is the cables are loose when new so the degree of cable bow is a difficult call.
1-2 engagement: is reverse smooth to select or does it require a stiff push or grind also?
Clutch not fully disengaging from failing hydraulic slave or master shows those symptoms (1, 2, and R high effort). The cables do two things, one moves fore-aft and the other selects the gates (1-2, 3-4, 5-6, r) Usually the cable deal will make 1-3-5 OK and 2-4-6-r crappy or vice versa or the o0ther cable would make the shifter lock at times due to not finding the gate and stopping the fore-aft motion.
 

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I think I've seen this before... about 6 years ago. I think it had to do with wire system under the hood... like it was binded up. If the mounts were not aligned up right, that could also throw the wire system off a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The "pee shivers" happens the second I turn the ignition key to off. It happens for about a second. You can barely feel it from the cabin, but you can tell from the sound that it's the engine vibrating/moving. The car itself doesn't move as it's not that harsh.

It sounds a lot like it must be these motor mounts. Can anyone describe to this novice exactly where they're located or how to see them? It sounds like I'm going to have to take it somewhere to have them replaced anyway, unless I don't have to support the engine when changing them.

Unfortunately, my problem does sounds more like the clutch not fully disengaging. R never grinds, but especially on cold mornings it takes a bit of a push downward to get into gear.
It only happened once for about a mile, but my brake pedal felt like there was a lot of air in the lines. I stopped and pumped the brakes with the car off and then running, let it sit while I was at work, and it has been fine ever since. Seems like this could be bad news for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anybody know if these mounts are the same on regular S60s or are they R specific?
 

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No special mounts for R.
The shiver when shut down does sound like the hydraulic damping of the two round mounts has failed.
The front mount also figures into it also.
The cheaper mounts sold are not good at cancelling the shivers. I have installed some that were a waste of money and time. The new cheapo mount may have stopped some major rumble or issue from the old mount having fully collapsed but the cheapo mount didn't dampen engine moans and groans that the OE mounts did when new. The front engine mount under crank pulley seems to require the right durometer rubber or it can really makes for some engine noise transmission into car.
I know Volvo geniune mounts are good but there may be others someoen has used that were good
 
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