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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It wasn't the PCV.

The bracket broke, the engine mount failed, the engine sagged. The noise was the timing belt and various pulleys grinding against things they shouldn't grind against. The sagging engine hit and tore the CV joint boot, so the oil I noticed was actually axle grease slinging out of the boot.

$1200 for the bracket, mount, and timing belt issue.
$490 for the CV joint boots.

Three weeks into owning a 40k mile Volvo and this ****ing catastrophic **** happens for no reason.

Edit: I told them to do the bracket and motor mount, and the CV joint. The timing belt and gears/pulleys aren't too damaged. I think I am selling the car after 3 weeks of ownership as I have no faith in its reliability and durability. I want to get the car running smoothly, that's it.

If you guys persuade me to keep it, I'd do the full job. Problem is, I have 5 minutes to decide.

What do you think?
 

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That sucks, I just replaced my motor mounts last week and have only 39k on my car. Was it the top mount that broke(dogbone shaped bracket), the bottom one is so beefy I can't see that one breaking. 2 hrs or less for replacing both mounts, might as well do them both, the new ones are a slightly improved design. Sorry you had the bad luck, sh*t happens, and it's repairable.If the timing belt, belt tensioner and idler pulley are at all suspect, I personally would replace those too. What does the tech say?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a call out to him, waiting on a callback. I will see what he thinks regarding the timing belt system.

But yea, a motor mount is a part that shouldn't fail without warning. Hell, it shouldn't fail at all. If a Toyota can run 250k miles on original mounts, why can't a Volvo make it to 45k miles?

I'm just really disappointed right now. It was a great car for the first three weeks of ownership. Peppy, spacious, etc. Then the true Volvo revealed itself. I want to get the car into decent shape, running smoothly, and sell this piece of **** as soon as possible.
 

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All cars can have problems, you would have no forewarning of a bracket breaking, however failing rubber in the mounts will reveal itself as increased vibration under load. I have never heard of that bracket breaking before. S40's/V50's are generally very reliable cars, your disappointed, rightly so, 3 weeks into ownership, and a major repair bill. Good luck.
 

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what year is your car? thats a bummer to hear, but as madden said, its all repairable. i have had my car since 22k, and it just broke 90k, and aside from doing the brakes, the only issue i had was the pcv issue, witch was covered under warranty, but was later deemed a recall. honestly i have only heard of a few cars being utter piles of junk, but volvo was good about the lemon law. very much understand your frustration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yea, the actual metal bracket that holds the rubber motor mount snapped. That dropped the motor over an inch down on the passenger side and led to all the other issues. I know all cars can have issues, but a failed metal bracket screams of manufacturing defect. I am left footing the bill since the warranty is out.

As an attorney, I can't help considering contacting Volvo Customer Service to see what can be done in this kind of situation.

@primo: It's a 2006 with 40k miles and no prior accidents. No warning failure of a metal bracket caused $1700 in damages.
 

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If that's your profession, you might as well try it. I personally wouldn't, but hey, you might get a leg up there.
 

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I'd go after Volvo on this one. This is very odd. Metal shouldn't just fail if the car was driven normally. At 40K, nothing should break.
 

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Since it was the passenger side that dropped, it was the upper dogbone bracket that supposedly broke. The driver side lower bracket is steel, the passenger side upper top half is cast aluminum, but the way it sits should put very little stress on it,it's bolted vertically to the chasis, it mostly just holds it in place, most of the stress is taken by the lower half of the upper mount which is also steel and bolted into place on to the engine, did the bracket actually break, or did it tear free of the rubber? Volvo has redesigned the mounts, if the rubber was failing, you would have had warning signs. The dogbone bracket is very visible it's right underneath the coolant expansion tank. Again good luck, sounds like a freak occurance to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
@madden: Either the metal bracket failed or the bolts securing the bracket sheared off. I haven't actually seen the part yet, I'm driving up there tomorrow morning to look over the work orders and the engine compartment before giving final authority to commence work. Three things could have caused that: 1) Manufacturing or design defect in the bracket, 2) Manufacturing or design defect in the bolt, or 3) Over-torquing the bolts. There was no accident or violent bump that caused it. I was simply driving down the road and the noise started as soon as the bracket failed, dumping the rubber grommet and the engine with it.

@chromecarz00: Should I contact Volvo immediately, or after repairs? The car is in the dealer service bay as we speak. This type of failure shouldn't occur at 40k miles, and, at a minimum, a discount would be nice. A full blown goodwill warranty coverage would be primo.
 

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Definitely contact Volvo.
Volvo does not treat you like a person unless you have a warranty.... hard truth. Whats the worst that could happen if you attempt a repair prior to taking it to a dealer? Give it a shot, I just replaced a wheel bearing and re-wired my ecu wiring harness. Volvo quoted me 1800$....
 

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Volvo does not treat you like a person unless you have a warranty.... hard truth. Whats the worst that could happen if you attempt a repair prior to taking it to a dealer? Give it a shot, I just replaced a wheel bearing and re-wired my ecu wiring harness. Volvo quoted me 1800$....
Rewired your ECU? Impressive, I'd love to chat about that as one of my ECU clips broke off and it's not cheap to fix...

Safeway, I'd contact them and let them know what happened at least. Our BMW 5 series water pump went out after warranty, and we contacted them - not asking for compensation - to inquire about recalls. They ended up covering our repair for us as a sign of goodwill, even though it wasn't in warranty and it was done by independent while talking. What's the worst that could happen?

If they don't end up doing anything after contacting you, feel free to pursue legal action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Volvo does not treat you like a person unless you have a warranty.... hard truth. Whats the worst that could happen if you attempt a repair prior to taking it to a dealer? Give it a shot, I just replaced a wheel bearing and re-wired my ecu wiring harness. Volvo quoted me 1800$....
I had it trailered to the dealer, so it is currently sitting there in the service bay. I'd have to have it picked up and trailered to my place before attempting a repair. I can definitely replace a motor mount, but the CV boot is a little time intensive. I'm thinking about having the dealer do the CV boot and the motor mount, so the car is drivable.

With VVT, a lot of people suggest against working on the timing belt. At this point, I'm not sure whether it actually needs to be replaced or not. The guy said that the teeth on the pully are ever so slightly rounded on one edge - same with the belt itself. Since it wasn't running long, I am under the impression that the timing belt and pulleys are probably fine. The technician simply said that when anything happens to the timing belt, they always suggest doing the whole timing belt service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And I'm calling these guys tomorrow morning:

Volvo Cars of North America, LLC
Attn: Volvo Customer Care Center
1 Volvo Drive
P.O. Box 914
Rockleigh, New Jersey 07647

Tel: 1-800-458-1552
Email: Use our Contact Us form if you are an existing Volvo customer.
Hours: 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST, M - F
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
This is the timing belt. It rubbed a bit after the engine dropped. The service technician says it could go either way. Replace or not replace. Would you replace it? It's $700 at the dealer.

To repair and replace the motor mount, bracket, bolt, etc, the dealer wants $505. Seems like a lot to replace a $130 part.

 

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You can get the mount for $83 + shipping on tascaparts.com (I priced it this morning). There's also a good write up for installing it in the sticky section. Average DIY install seems to be about an hour or so.
 

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That seems a little high, I had both mounts replaced and it took less than 2 hrs. I paid 220.00 (IPD)for both mounts and 176.00 labor to install them at a local Indy. Their charging you book time which is not the actual time it takes, and is often highly inflated. Total install for both mounts 396.00, parts and labor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What do you think about the timing belt though? Replace it or leave it as is?

I can have the dealer do the CV boot and then trailer it from the dealer to my father's garage to replace the motor mount myself.
 

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I'd replace the belt. That's something you do not want to mess with--and it looks compromised--you want a belt that is without imperfections across the entire belt or more strain will pull on areas that are weaker.

I bought the heavy duty / high performance belt (tougher belt with a tougher tensioner) kit from FCPEuro last week during their Labor Day 10% sale, and will have it on there this Friday. Not gonna play around with it myself. I'd rather have a tech who has all the proper tools. The biggest issue for me is with the crank bolt, and I'm not gonna try and locate an impact wrench, etc.
 
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