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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I got the Volvo dealer to replace the upper spring seat and strut bearing on my 2011 S60 last Friday. They also did an alignment afterwards. Shortly after getting my car back (no more noisy steering!) I noticed the handling felt a little off. Under hard acceleration then suddenly lifting the throttle the car wanders a bit (it never did this before). Now after driving it for a few days I noticed the scary part. Under high speed left turns (highway and the odd on ramp) turning left only, the stability control kicks on very abruptly and early. It is repeatable and I tried the same curves going both ways (left turns and right turns). It handles just as before (very well) when turning right.

It's so bad I would consider it dangerous. I took it back in to the dealer today and told them the issue. I took a tech out for a drive but of course could not replicate it (only slow left turns in traffic). He knows what the symptoms are and I was told rechecked his work and checked the alignment. They said everything seems fine. I agreed to let the tech take it home for the night and hopefully it is fixed or he is able to replicate it.

The only thing they noticed was that one spec on the alignment changed 0.3 degrees (they did not specify which).

My main concern right now is how to proceed when they ask me to pay. The car did not have this issue before they performed work on it last week. There is no warranty. After spending $550 to fix the last issue on Friday I don't want to pay any more, especially if they caused this.

What are your thoughts on how to handle payment and what the issue may be?

Thanks!
 

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Be nice and work with them. Offer that since the tech is taking YOUR car home using YOUR fuel and hopefully driving high speed turns to duplicate the DTSC kicking in that some kind of a deal can be worked out. Might work, might not...

You didn't mention if your roads were icy or wet--gotta ask...?
 

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Be nice and work with them. Offer that since the tech is taking YOUR car home using YOUR fuel and hopefully driving high speed turns to duplicate the DTSC kicking in that some kind of a deal can be worked out. Might work, might not...

You didn't mention if your roads were icy or wet--gotta ask...?
+1. Chances are they wont charge you of if they can replicate it and it was related to something they did.
 

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It's alignment , Turn the DSTC in sport and see if it still kicks in. I put toe out in the rear of mine to encourage it to rotate on corner entry. It wanders like no other on the interstate and I can activate the Stability control under just slightly spirted driving since doing so. Have them stick a bunch of toe in back in the rear and it will go back to the way it was. Also Alignment racks do need to be calibrated every so often and there is a chance theirs is out. Perhaps try a different alignment shop.

P.S. if you keep driving it you'll get use to it. But if it's as bad as you say it's likely wearing a tire out. Mine wandering on the interstate bugged me for about 2 days before I got use to it and enjoy the extra turn in.

Also, don't send the tech home asking him to drive it like a mad man to get the dstc to activate. Even if he gets it to happen it won't tell him much other then your going fast enough with enough of an angle that the car thinks it's sliding. Just put it on a different alignment rack and see what it says. Willing to bet you've got some toe out or even just zero toe in the rear. (also check tire pressures).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. Here's an update.

I got a call this morning from the dealership. The tech was able to easily repeat the condition over night. They did some more checking and apparently both the front ball joints have excessive wear causing this condition. The strange part is that the car handled great until the took the strut out last week. I talked to the service manager and he explained that the wear on the ball joint must be uneven because they could only get play by manipulating it in specific spots. He said it might have been reinstalled in a different position which lead to this condition.

They really annoying part is that I took it to a tire shop 1 month ago for an alignment. They said that both ball joints showed excessive play and should be replace before doing the alignment. I took it to the dealer for a second opinion and specifically asked them to check the ball joints for play. They told me that they were fine and did the alignment. I took a trip and when I got back the passenger side strut bearing started to show wear. I got that replaced Friday.

The service adviser I'm dealing with is extremely hard to deal with and was not willing to make any concessions. I asked to talk with the service manager and expressed my displeasure that even when specifically asked to check the ball joints they did not find the issue. He agreed with me and offered to refund me for the alignment done 1 month ago, and the one that needs to be done after the control arms are replaced.

I would like to do the work myself but would have to order the parts from the US, and that will probably take 1+ week. I don't feel safe driving the car the way it behaves so I am getting the dealer to do the work. If this does not fix it I will be very unhappy.

Thanks for your advice everyone and let let me know your thoughts on the latest developments.
 

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I would expect a break on the labor for the ball joint replacement, since I believe the control arm has to be dropped to do the struts and brakes removed too. If they comped me for the labor to get to where the strut relacement took place, I would feel better, but thats me.
 

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I would expect a break on the labor for the ball joint replacement, since I believe the control arm has to be dropped to do the struts and brakes removed too. If they comped me for the labor to get to where the strut relacement took place, I would feel better, but thats me.
IIRC you take the axle bolt out not the ball joint when doing struts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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That is correct.

The service manager told me they don't need to take the control arm out, but do disconnect it via the ball joint.
IMO the labor to get to that point should be covered by them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I got it back on Thursday and it's good as new (finally). 55,000 miles... This better be the last issue for a while!
 

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I got it back on Thursday and it's good as new (finally). 55,000 miles... This better be the last issue for a while!
Do you mind if I ask what they ended up doing and the cost?
 
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