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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stumbled on TJ 14335, addressing axle ping. It says:
Remove the wheel hub bolt to access the drive shaft. Push the drive shaft out of the hub as far as possible.

Clean both hub and drive shaft interface thoroughly using Volvo cleaner.

Apply thread locking paste (or ACE Pipe thread compound / TFE paste).

Reinstall all parts.

Allow the thread locking paste to harden 30-60 minutes before using the vehicle."
Does any one know for sure, are they applying the paste to the splines or to the threads of the bolt?

Also, is that "ACE" as in "ACE Hardware"?



ACE TFE.jpg
 

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In those "fixes" paste is applied to the splines to help absorb any play and NVH. It might work, but it is usually normal wear on the CVs. Ensure to get new axle bolts as they are stretch to torque.
 

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Re cause of axle ping. Volvo has been wrong all along.

My 2004 V70 with 110K, when I grab the axle (withe tire off and car on jack stand), if I slide the axle in and out along its axis,
the ping is easily heard.

So, after new CV inner and out boots and new grease, axle ping is gone.

So the ping is from axle moves in and out (when you go from R to D or accelerate, then decelerate) in a joint with little grease.
Grease is a combo of "soap" and oil. So over the years, the "soap" liquefies, leaving only the oil behind ---> axle ping.

replace the CV boots and you will be fine.
 

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My splines where greased 4 years ago and have been silent ever since.

Of course success depends on how much play was present and what thickness grease you use. Mine was done by a dealer with experience and some decent axle grease.


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Classic axle ping has been frequently noted as being due to excessive CV stub and wheel hub spline contact space and was raised as an issue from the beginning and with brand new vehicles. Number of things over the years to address this specific concern, green thread locker with an overnight sit and rubber cone axle screw inserts as examples. PTFE pipe putty is mostly noted as a solution these days, although I'm sure grease will do the same (mitigate direct metal to metal contact).

Axle SEMS screw, as is noted above, really needs to be used only once for best results. If you do them torque to spec (35Nm+90 no cone, 50Nm with cone), you'll feel the bolt stretch at the very end.

Can absolutely be CV joint, but it's not just CV joint that can cause the sound.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So, "Yes" to the ACE hardware pipe dope?
 

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So, "Yes" to the ACE hardware pipe dope?
Yes and No,

Once you remove the axle bolt removed (can be done in situ with wheel on the ground), you will see that the hole is NOT blind. It connects to the CV Joint and you will see grease.

Nothing wrong with plumbing Pipe dope (the stuff they use in household plumbing or natural gas iron piping), AS LONG AS the pipe dope stays on the threads of the bolt.
If the pipe dope is allowed to get into the grease compartment of the CV joint ---> potential for problem.

PS: You can do this "cheap" experiment: remove the axle bolt, get a grease gun and squirt Castrol HD grease in there.
Move the axle in and out along its axis. If the ping noise goes away, you have the answer.
That is for OUTER joint.

For Inner joint, you can lift the larger diameter side (once the Oetiker clamp is removed) and add some HD grease.
The problem is: you need new Oetiker clamp. FCPEuro sells the Oetiker clamp by itself.

Other people in "matthews Volvo forum" reported similar experience like mine: axle ping goes away once new grease/boot is done.
 

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A quick test for the O.P.,

Raise the front wheels and support on jack stand (safety first).
Then grab the axle and slide it in and out ALONG its axis.
If you re-produce the ping, the answer is there: dry grease.

The BMW 5-series and X5 has similar issue in the REAR CV Joint: dry grease causing clanking noise, once new grease is in, clanking noise goes away.
 

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Can absolutely be CV joint, but it's not just CV joint that can cause the sound.
At a 170k miles of use, more likely normal CV wear than the axle ping experienced on Volvos during the initial warranty period where the "loctite" or grease were applied. Hopefully, the pipe putty solves the problem because good quality axles are expensive for the rebuilt Volvo ones and GKN is not available for the front axles. As noted earlier, repacking might be a good option too.

For the splines, I have tried the grease, loctite, pipe putty, and installed my own rubber cone in the non-cone bolt, but my ping comes back. I might remove both axles at some point in the spring and carry them to a rebuilder to have them repacked. At the same time they are out, I might remove the angle gear to change seals and inspect the sleeve. That's the thing, if you do the repacking of the axles, the job gets bigger because the axles are half the work to removal of the angle gear (noted for the 3.2 and 2.5, V8 may need exhaust removal for access).
 

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Yes and No,

Once you remove the axle bolt removed (can be done in situ with wheel on the ground), you will see that the hole is NOT blind. It connects to the CV Joint and you will see grease.

Nothing wrong with plumbing Pipe dope (the stuff they use in household plumbing or natural gas iron piping), AS LONG AS the pipe dope stays on the threads of the bolt.
If the pipe dope is allowed to get into the grease compartment of the CV joint ---> potential for problem.

PS: You can do this "cheap" experiment: remove the axle bolt, get a grease gun and squirt Castrol HD grease in there.
Move the axle in and out along its axis. If the ping noise goes away, you have the answer.
That is for OUTER joint.

For Inner joint, you can lift the larger diameter side (once the Oetiker clamp is removed) and add some HD grease.
The problem is: you need new Oetiker clamp. FCPEuro sells the Oetiker clamp by itself.

Other people in "matthews Volvo forum" reported similar experience like mine: axle ping goes away once new grease/boot is done.
Hey, I'm just now approaching this problem with my 05 V50. I just changed both CV axles to new ones from O'Reilly. If I grab the axle itself and push in and out (laterally from wheel towards transmission) I can hear the click on both sides. I did angle torque the bolts as specified by spec, so if I take them out in theory we're supposed to throw them out, but they're a week old so I might be able to re-use.

Are you saying basically I could pull the center cap from the wheel, take the axle bolt out, push grease *through* the bolt hole into the outer joint, and that would fix it?

Then for the inner, I need to take off the Oetiker clamp and just push more heavy grease into the inner joint?

I ask because I read the IPD bulletin from their site and they suggested greasing the splines inside the hub with some heavy grease. Do I need to provide a cushion of heavy axle grease between the axle and hub splines?

Additionally, would it serve me to buy the anti-ping bolts, or can I place some kind of cone over the ones that came with the axle to serve the same purpose?

Is this noise indicative of some kind of irrevocable wear on the axle or hub that will eventually fail catastrophically?

TIA.
 

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Hi. My dealer greased my splines a few years ago and it has been quiet ever since. Undo the center bolt and slide the axle out to expose as much of the splines as you can, and then grease them. Reassemble and test. That’s all.


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Yes to your questions.
- Push grease into the hole (axle bolt removed), I used Castrol HD grease.
- For INNER CV Joint, open the Oetker clamp, if you are careful, you can re-use the Oetiker clamp.
Pack with Castrol HD grease.

Trust me, once the CV joints are fully packed with HD grease, the ping will go away. You have nothing to lose.
 
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