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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey
So about a year ago I picked up a 2003 s60 2.5 awd with 170kms for a very low $800 Canukastan Pesos which works out to about $300 of those American dollars! My attempt at humor.
The reason the PO sold so cheap is after dealing with the now infamous delayed reverse gear engagement and flaring shifts a trip to the transmission shop soon enlightened them the end of life was near unless a large amount of cash left at the front counter.
That's when they decided to sell it cheap as to ease their conscious of not ripping some unsuspecting used car buyer.
I acquired this car for the sole purpose of performing a couple auto-box revival experiments. On the drive home it was apparent the drive to reverse delay appeared but only when hot.
My first approach was to drain and fill plus remove the return line and pump out the bad and extremely brown sludge,,, seriously it looked like used engine oil. I also spliced in a Wix transmission filter on that line for future duty.
The s60 was now given to my wife for winter driving while I rejuvenated the tired suspension on her beloved 2001 V70 base m56.
I never really gave her much info on the other than this would be her daily until I was finished with the V70,,I waited patiently and soon the reports started coming in.
My wife has experience with a 2004 Nissan Maxima that used the same transmission BTW so she knew the signs of a failing shift and delayed reverse and how they become violent if left untreated.
So she spent about 5 months with this as her daily and the fluid replacement and return line filter did not eliminate delayed reverse or the flared shift,, but problems did not get any worse... It seems the new fluid was able to help but not fix the problem.
So now with her V70 back in service it was time to move on to my second experiment,, Remove and send out the 3 linear solenoids for cleaning and reinstall. https://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fd2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net%2Fuploads%2Fpart%2Fmain_image%2F3450%2F59947-68K.jpg%3Fv%3D1525277626&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sonnax.com%2Fparts%2F3452-remanufactured-linear-solenoid-kit&docid=NTWoER4Kh1AFfM&tbnid=qfnHrBRro3nYRM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwiW6uz6zoTiAhUG0awKHWDeBm0QMwhAKAAwAA..i&w=750&h=580&bih=615&biw=1024&q=aw55-51sn%20linear%20solenoids&ved=0ahUKEwiW6uz6zoTiAhUG0awKHWDeBm0QMwhAKAAwAA&iact=mrc&uact=8
I know some of you may buy new Sonnax solenoids from Ebay and thats fine,, But I have a transmission shop close by that cleans/Tests/calibrates and modifies for "self cleaning" back cover for $200 so that is what i do.
I did this same operation on my C70 transmission that was in much more advanced stages of the degradation and it completely cured it but i always wondered if i needed to,, maybe I could've just replaced fluid??
In my experience now i have to say NO,, changing fluid may help but will not completely eliminate sludge in solenoids and symptoms will continue. "Never say Never" tho.. maybe it did work for some people,,Not for me.

Dropping the sub frame to access the transmission side cover is not for everyone I do understand that but it is doable and now that I've done it a few times I have the process down to a reasonable time.

Success!! S60 shifts perfect now. Castrol TransMax "import blend" from Costco online is the fluid I use although anything 3309 compatible will do.
Just a side note on that inline filter?? Jay at Transmission Technology here in Cambridge explained that he doubts very much if it does any good.
His theory is that buried deep inside the AW51-55sn there is a filter on the suction side to protect the pump... so if it gets plugged?? Well I guess you can figure the rest.
Cheers
Stay curious my friends
 

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Thanks for that write-up and insight. Going to keep Transmission Technology in Cambridge in my "one day I'm going to need this" reference notebook as I'm not too far away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep
Jay is easy to talk with and will enlighten you with fact based knowledge gained from years in the business.
Cheers!
your Sig says 01 V70 2.4t?
I just acquired an Mystic silver 01 V70 t5 with a sad auto trans,,plan on swapping it to a manual. But the best part of this story is the guy that owned it was closing his Pioneer Transmission shop because he said "there is no money in this any more" Said "people come in and get a quote and just walk out the door again and go lease a new car for $0 down instead of fixing their older car."
Sign of the times folks
Cheers
People don't have cash any more I guess to fix stuff?
 

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This can often help.
I managed to get over 50,000 mor miles out of my 2003 automatic V70 , before declaring it dead.
It had 240,000 miles on it. It had the solenoids repaired/cleaned, lots of oil, but needed a valve block or full rebuild.
I was going to do that, and striped and reassembled a scrap box to practice on , having rebuild an automatic before.
But was offered a manual car with a dead engine, so a lot cheaper to swap my engine in to the other car.
 

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Yep
Jay is easy to talk with and will enlighten you with fact based knowledge gained from years in the business.
Cheers!
your Sig says 01 V70 2.4t?
I just acquired an Mystic silver 01 V70 t5 with a sad auto trans,,plan on swapping it to a manual. But the best part of this story is the guy that owned it was closing his Pioneer Transmission shop because he said "there is no money in this any more" Said "people come in and get a quote and just walk out the door again and go lease a new car for $0 down instead of fixing their older car."
Sign of the times folks
Cheers
People don't have cash any more I guess to fix stuff?
That and the cash for clunkers program killed the old used car market in the past decade.
Combined with the fact that today most people simply just don't trust heavily used cars, and there's your influx of SUV's that can't drive at all.

Props for the 01 t5, I just got one in November as well for 800 bucks. It's even mystic silver. You don't happen to have a wing you want to sell, do ya?

Guy told me it had a shift flare, but compared to my 2003 2.4t's shift flare I couldn't even feel it.

Best car I've ever owned (so far at least... ;))

What does taking the solenoids out entail? I flushed my fluid, put in a filter and transmission cooler, and it shifts fine up and down in drive now. Just the only thing that remains is the park to drive flare, it'll take a few seconds if you move the stick fast down from park to drive. I also don't know of any local transmission specialists, what would ya recommend?. Those new Ebay solenoids work fine for people? I haven't heard anything on em.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you notice a delay or hard shift when moving gear selector from drive to reverse or neutral to drive then your solenoids are becoming sticky and not moving when commanded by the TCM and move abruptly when fluid pressure builds behind them,, that's the delay. The bang is the elevated fluid pressure.
My s60 behaved normal when cold but misbehaved once heated up after say a 20min highway drive then my wife would report delayed hard shift into reverse as she was parking. I though this was because fluid thinned out but now I'm learning the solenoid don't like elevated temps and slightly are weakened and have trouble moving sticky pintle.

Unfortunately on Volvo changing out the solenoids requires dropping the front sub frame only because there's not enough room to remove inspection cover with it still in place.
My process involves suspending engine/trans with suitable rigging. Draining coolant. Removing both front strut and spindle assembly unbolting steering rack. Loosen all 4 sub frame bolts removing only the front 2 and lower front of frame.
This allows access to valve body cover.
There's a bunch of other small things like moving stuff out of the way but if you attempt this job you'll soon realize that.
Take your time and be patient,, try not to break to many of the dried out and brittle connectors.

As far as your choice of solenoids I don't have much.. again I'm using a shop that rebuilds valve bodies and can test rebuild and calibrate the solenoids..I emphasize calibrate.

Pretty sure these shops exist everywhere but this is where I go https://www.transmissiontechnology.ca/
Because even though these trans were used by many different Mfg, Nissan,Gm and Volvo I'm not really sure if these solenoids are one size fits all?
Cheers
Stay curious my friends
 

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If you notice a delay or hard shift when moving gear selector from drive to reverse or neutral to drive then your solenoids are becoming sticky and not moving when commanded by the TCM and move abruptly when fluid pressure builds behind them,, that's the delay. The bang is the elevated fluid pressure.
My s60 behaved normal when cold but misbehaved once heated up after say a 20min highway drive then my wife would report delayed hard shift into reverse as she was parking. I though this was because fluid thinned out but now I'm learning the solenoid don't like elevated temps and slightly are weakened and have trouble moving sticky pintle.

Unfortunately on Volvo changing out the solenoids requires dropping the front sub frame only because there's not enough room to remove inspection cover with it still in place.
My process involves suspending engine/trans with suitable rigging. Draining coolant. Removing both front strut and spindle assembly unbolting steering rack. Loosen all 4 sub frame bolts removing only the front 2 and lower front of frame.
This allows access to valve body cover.
There's a bunch of other small things like moving stuff out of the way but if you attempt this job you'll soon realize that.
Take your time and be patient,, try not to break to many of the dried out and brittle connectors.

As far as your choice of solenoids I don't have much.. again I'm using a shop that rebuilds valve bodies and can test rebuild and calibrate the solenoids..I emphasize calibrate.

Pretty sure these shops exist everywhere but this is where I go https://www.transmissiontechnology.ca/
Because even though these trans were used by many different Mfg, Nissan,Gm and Volvo I'm not really sure if these solenoids are one size fits all?
Cheers
Stay curious my friends
It's never been reverse. Just park to drive, never the opposite.

I will have the subframe out in a few months when I do the delrin bushing / ipd swaybar job. But just wondering if it was worth it for the small park to drive flare.

Thanks for info though. If it starts going neutral or reverse I'll know it needs a clean for sure and look at Ithaca Volvo or something...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm Looking for a wing myself,,plenty for older p80 v70 around here but p2 wings seem pretty scarce
 

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I'm Looking for a wing myself,,plenty for older p80 v70 around here but p2 wings seem pretty scarce
There's one for 200 on ebay right now, mystic silver if you look hard enough. I can't find anything cheaper though, and have plenty of upgrades to do before that with 200 dollars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Once those solenoids are cleaned up it won't do it at all any more and it's be a shame to miss that opportunity with the frame already down.
That banging you feel?? well that will eventually rip out your engine mounts so check them with frame off and it'll beat up your exhaust flex joint til it fails,, Food for thought.
Cheers.
 

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Once those solenoids are cleaned up it won't do it at all any more and it's be a shame to miss that opportunity with the frame already down.
That banging you feel?? well that will eventually rip out your engine mounts so check them with frame off and it'll beat up your exhaust flex joint til it fails,, Food for thought.
Cheers.
I've got replacements from FCP from a stage 0 I was gunna do on my 2003 before I got this thing, just haven't gotten around to checking them/replacing. Did get the torque mounts out though, and they looked about how you'd expect. Thanks for info again! I'll look into it all during that one big job, hopefully I'll have the cash for it all at that point as well heh
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After about a year of waiting and looking for a m56 V70 t5... not 1! But 2 m56 t5 V70 became available in my area shortly after I purchased my V70 with sad slushbox! DUH!! :mad:
 
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