monkey11's S60 - OZ, ipd, & Koni mods!
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Thank for posting these for me!
Sorry about the picture quality
In a week or so the massive brakes will fill the front wheels. (CAN'T WAIT!)And I really mean FILL!
What is cool about the 17' wheels is the ride. They have enough play to absorb the little bumps. 19" would look great, but I think the ride would suffer. Also the car is pretty low, my fender clearance is about max now.
Thanks to Brembo and Tire Rack.com for all the help!
Sorry about the picture quality
In a week or so the massive brakes will fill the front wheels. (CAN'T WAIT!)And I really mean FILL!
What is cool about the 17' wheels is the ride. They have enough play to absorb the little bumps. 19" would look great, but I think the ride would suffer. Also the car is pretty low, my fender clearance is about max now.
Thanks to Brembo and Tire Rack.com for all the help!
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421 Posts
Man, that car looks hot!
With bigger brakes it will look incredible, keep up the good work!
With bigger brakes it will look incredible, keep up the good work!
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478 Posts
Looks sweet
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[This message has been edited by volvos70turbo (edited 06-24-2002).]
[This message has been edited by volvos70turbo (edited 06-24-2002).]
Indeed!
P.S. There's just something about the white (around the wheel well) versus the black (within the wheel well) that makes the eye "want" to see more silvery wheel. I think it's a trick of the eye. Those really are HUGE wheels, so the comments about wanting larger wheels are probably just due to the way the white-versus-black tricks the eye into wanting to see more silvery wheel fill out the black hole!
Regardless, they look fantastic!
[This message has been edited by Lisa62 (edited 07-10-2002).]
I really like the tires. They are very quiet, have excellent grip in the dry. The HTR + are supposed to be "AA" wet traction, although I have yet to see. All of the reviews were very positive with the HTR + models. They even have a mud and snow rating thats pretty good.
Thanks
Thanks
Hey vetteguy,
Thats pretty funny...I just realized that! Well if all goes well, it might end up an 11 second S60. I was looking to put a supercharger on her, but it just won't fit.
So I'm working on some advanced intake cooling and exhaust testing. If that fails I might go to a nitrous oxide system.
It's all time or money.... Suspension and brakes always come first for me.
Thats pretty funny...I just realized that! Well if all goes well, it might end up an 11 second S60. I was looking to put a supercharger on her, but it just won't fit.
So I'm working on some advanced intake cooling and exhaust testing. If that fails I might go to a nitrous oxide system.
It's all time or money.... Suspension and brakes always come first for me.
Monkey, I have an old 760 and the way to make those move is by holding the wastegate shut with a pressure valve etc.
If only one could do the same with the new engines. Unfortunately the ECU won't allow it. But..I thought that there must be a way to spoof the boost levels being read by the ECU, then the wastegate would stay closed longer maybe and higher boost would result.
Can anyone out there chime in? How is boost measured and sent to the ECU? I know the wastegate is controlled by an electro-pneumatic switch which passes pressure to the wastegate actuator.
Anyone? This could be a cheap way to get more power. OTOH, timing and fuel delivery would probably be all messed up.
If only one could do the same with the new engines. Unfortunately the ECU won't allow it. But..I thought that there must be a way to spoof the boost levels being read by the ECU, then the wastegate would stay closed longer maybe and higher boost would result.
Can anyone out there chime in? How is boost measured and sent to the ECU? I know the wastegate is controlled by an electro-pneumatic switch which passes pressure to the wastegate actuator.
Anyone? This could be a cheap way to get more power. OTOH, timing and fuel delivery would probably be all messed up.
Hey Vetteguy,
I like the idea you are using. I would think the ECU controls engine timing/ ignition curve and the fuel. I would think that a manual boost controller and manually adjustable blow off & wastegate....well, it has got to be do-able. I will do some more homework once the brakes are done. Big ol turbo is next. I'll let you know what I break. Johann will probably be a great source for the info.
I like the idea you are using. I would think the ECU controls engine timing/ ignition curve and the fuel. I would think that a manual boost controller and manually adjustable blow off & wastegate....well, it has got to be do-able. I will do some more homework once the brakes are done. Big ol turbo is next. I'll let you know what I break. Johann will probably be a great source for the info.
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8,469 Posts
The car looks great. Keep us posted on the brakes.
No, you can't do it like the old days with a boost controller because the ECU will see the increased boost and retard timing and fuel delivery to try and lower the boost. That is why you have to 'trick' the ECU.
Again, in the old days, the ECU would cut out at very high boost levels. This is counteracted by installing a second valve similar to the wastegate valve to fool the ECU and extend the boost cutout.
Can't do that now since (i beleive) that the boost sensor is electropneumatic and is located in the intake manifold (there are two sensors that I can see). If someone with ECU knowledge can tell us what that signal is (4-20mA for example), we can provide some circuitry to keep the wastegate open.
In other words, lets say that at 2psi of boost, the sensor sends 10mA and at 5psi (which i think is max) it sends 20mA. The ECU sees 20mA and opens the wastegate. So we build circuitry that continues to send 10mA until say 10 psi of boost. Then it sends 20mA.
Maybe. I have no idea how automotive electronics work at this level but...I do own a small electronic biz that designs and manufactures prototype circuit boards. If someone can figure it out, I'll make em for cheap.
That's if it would work!
Again, in the old days, the ECU would cut out at very high boost levels. This is counteracted by installing a second valve similar to the wastegate valve to fool the ECU and extend the boost cutout.
Can't do that now since (i beleive) that the boost sensor is electropneumatic and is located in the intake manifold (there are two sensors that I can see). If someone with ECU knowledge can tell us what that signal is (4-20mA for example), we can provide some circuitry to keep the wastegate open.
In other words, lets say that at 2psi of boost, the sensor sends 10mA and at 5psi (which i think is max) it sends 20mA. The ECU sees 20mA and opens the wastegate. So we build circuitry that continues to send 10mA until say 10 psi of boost. Then it sends 20mA.
Maybe. I have no idea how automotive electronics work at this level but...I do own a small electronic biz that designs and manufactures prototype circuit boards. If someone can figure it out, I'll make em for cheap.
That's if it would work!
Hey Mike C70, I think you will be happy with your choice.
Thank you George. I'm still waiting on brake lines from goodridge, the wait is killing me. I went down to Brembo last Friday just to look at all the peices. I am toying with the idea of the 355 rotors (14.2"). the inside dia. of my wheel is a sliver over 15". That would leave less than a 1" gap between the wheel and the rotor. (cool or crazy?) Snoogans should go with the big rotor for sure.
Thank you George. I'm still waiting on brake lines from goodridge, the wait is killing me. I went down to Brembo last Friday just to look at all the peices. I am toying with the idea of the 355 rotors (14.2"). the inside dia. of my wheel is a sliver over 15". That would leave less than a 1" gap between the wheel and the rotor. (cool or crazy?) Snoogans should go with the big rotor for sure.
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