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How can those values be “normal”? It’s. 100% complexity implausible for a sensors to read that without being faulty
It isn't the sensor , it is the app translation of the hex code from the sensor that is (probably) out of wack
 
I'm at my 2 week medical crap right now. I drove here on EV only so engine will still be cold. I plan on running the test/logs when I leave in a couple hours.
 
OK, I tried, and I think I failed on 2 reasons.
1 - I pulled down from B to B1 to cause engine to start, I should have used Power. After a bit the engine shut off again.
2 - I was watching the info, and I think I let it run too long, and some scrolled off (so I missed the initial start-up logging, sorry).
BUT, here is what I did get, right after the engine shut off on its own. The engine was started right around the 1:00 mark, and at 2:50 (ish) is when the engine engaged to Drive. The one interesting thing to me was oil pressure, it really cranks it up on start, that's a great thing in my book. Also spike when it went into gear. Amazing tech (when it works)
Image

@Markm87 - I'll do it again, maybe tomorrow morning.
 
One odd thing that might confuse things a bit is this
Image

FWIW, that location was at approximately 1200 ft, judging by this area, but odd how it fluctuated to sea level constantly. Other than those 2 moment, that don't correlate with anything else.
 
Discussion starter · #129 ·
@Pioneer4x4
Apologies for the delay responding, my wife has been in hospital so has been a busy couple of days looking after her and our 3 children!

Thank you for sharing your recorded data, that's really helpful and very much appreciated.

I would say the first observation is that, as @Dyno already mentioned, it's now clear we cannot trust the "[ECM] boost air pressure after turbo" readings on this app, although we already suspected this it's really good to have confirmation of this so it can be ruled out completely.

It also looks like my engine oil pressure doesn't reach anywhere near the values yours does, I will look into this further and take some more readings from my car over the next couple of days for comparison.

Finally, my car seems to fast idle at around 1400 rpm for ~45 seconds, yours however only started at around 1000 rpm and quickly settled at ~900rpm.

Otherwise, I can't see much else that stands out between the two.

Unfortunately I missed timing advance off that configuration file, it would have been interesting to see how that compared too.
 
@Pioneer4x4
Apologies for the delay responding, my wife has been in hospital so has been a busy couple of days looking after her and our 3 children!

Thank you for sharing your recorded data, that's really helpful and very much appreciated.

I would say the first observation is that, as @Dyno already mentioned, it's now clear we cannot trust the "[ECM] boost air pressure after turbo" readings on this app, although we already suspected this it's really good to have confirmation of this so it can be ruled out completely.

It also looks like my engine oil pressure doesn't reach anywhere near the values yours does, I will look into this further and take some more readings from my car over the next couple of days for comparison.

Finally, my car seems to fast idle at around 1400 rpm for ~45 seconds, yours however only started at around 1000 rpm and quickly settled at ~900rpm.

Otherwise, I can't see much else that stands out between the two.

Unfortunately I missed timing advance off that configuration file, it would have been interesting to see how that compared too.
I'll run it again soon, and I swear mine fast idles at 1400 as well, until it engages. I don't know if the "Log" reflects the gauge/graphs on that dashboard you setup.
And I hope all is well (or will be well) with your wife. I'm going through some tough crap right now, plus moving, plus fixing up a 103 year old house to sell. And health can IMMEDIATELY alter everything.
 
Discussion starter · #131 ·
So the latest update...

The turtle icon has been appearing on the dash recently, it only flashes on for around a second each time however it leaves the following message in the car status page on the main screen:

"Reduced Performance - Acceleration Performance Reduced"

Once the ignition is turned off and back on, the message is gone.

I managed to get the car to the dealership with the message still visible and they found the following code which they beleived is responsible for the turtle icon:

IEM-U300362

Apparently this is a low voltage to the Inverter module for the ERAD, they now believe there could be a wiring issue somewhere.

I have since performed a scan for codes on the car and found a number of codes, many of which are related to voltage issues:

CEM-U110400
CEM-U132A87
DIM-U2F3A82
ECM-P26DC00
ECM-P017068
VCM-U300362
VCM-U103A47
CCM-B12A612
CCM-U300362
AUD-B154994
TRM-U2F0082
PSMD-B14AC11
PSMD-U300362
PSMD-B113724
PSMP-U300362
WAM-U014000
SCL-B102608
IEM-U300362
IGM-U300362

BECM-P0A9D00
BECM-P0AC700
BECM-P0ACC00
BECM-P0AEA00
BECM-P0BC400
BECM-P0C3500
HCMR-U2F0078

All of the codes ending with U300362 indicate a low battery voltage detected on that module.

I am wondering if a low voltage could also be messing with sensors or ignition coils etc.

I have been trying to find wiring diagrams online to see if there is a connection point that is common to all of these modules with no luck so far.

Does anyone know where I can obtain wiring diagrams or does anyone have access to VIDA who could help?
 
Discussion starter · #132 ·
The charts below show the voltage of the 12v battery, logged during a short drive.

This was using electric drive only up until around 14:45 when it switched to the engine.

At this point, the ECU voltage dropped to < 12.2V.

I assume this is due to the lack of a normal alternator, driven by the engine, instead sourcing power from the high voltage battery to charge the 12v battery.

I am wondering though if this is the normal voltage seen on a T8 when using the engine, could anyone confirm this?

Image
 
The charts below show the voltage of the 12v battery, logged during a short drive.

This was using electric drive only up until around 14:45 when it switched to the engine.

At this point, the ECU voltage dropped to < 12.2V.

I assume this is due to the lack of a normal alternator, driven by the engine, instead sourcing power from the high voltage battery to charge the 12v battery.

I am wondering though if this is the normal voltage seen on a T8 when using the engine, could anyone confirm this?

View attachment 203745
I'll give it a shot, do you want to setup a dashboard again?
 
Charging voltage and current of the auxiliary battery are governed by the Aux Battery SOC and temperature, you should add those sensors to your dashboard.

Actually one of the preset screens shows the 12V battery and the start/stop battery

(pre-loaded screens: Settings >> Dashboard - reset to default).
 
Charging voltage and current of the auxiliary battery are governed by the Aux Battery SOC and temperature, you should add those sensors to your dashboard.

Actually one of the preset screens shows the 12V battery and the start/stop battery

(pre-loaded screens: Settings >> Dashboard - reset to default).
On a T8?
 
Discussion starter · #137 ·
I have uploaded a dashboard file, this can be downloaded using the link below:


@Pioneer4x4 it would be great if you could run this for a short drive, but as always completely understand if your too busy. I really appreciate all your help so far with this.

@Peter1234 that's a good suggestion, thank you, I have added battery SOC and battery current to the dashboard.

I have included engine RPM to show the transition between electric motor and engine.

I have also included some other engine parameters (MAP,O2, Fuel Trims etc.) to see if any of these values are affected when the voltage drops.
 
I have uploaded a dashboard file, this can be downloaded using the link below:


@Pioneer4x4 it would be great if you could run this for a short drive, but as always completely understand if your too busy. I really appreciate all your help so far with this.

@Peter1234 that's a good suggestion, thank you, I have added battery SOC and battery current to the dashboard.

I have included engine RPM to show the transition between electric motor and engine.

I have also included some other engine parameters (MAP,O2, Fuel Trims etc.) to see if any of these values are affected when the voltage drops.
I downloaded it, and will see, what I see...
EDIT. Heading out now.
 
I got more info, haven't looked at it yet.
I exported them all to BRC files
4 of them, first EV only, started in Hybrid, switched to Pure after a couple of minutes, then accidentally started the ICE as I was backing into a parking spot.
next 2 were EV only (I think) going between 3 stores (Home Depot, Walmart, Harbor Freight)
Last one I intentionally started it, pulled back to B1, then after warm up (it did do the 1400-900 thing) I then played in POWER for a bit, which is obvious from the graphs!
It won't let me upload BRC files, maybe shoot me your email address?
I'll try to post screen shots tomorrow.
Here is a zip of them on my Onedrive
 
I just re-read all the main posts in this thread. Back in March a couple times you mentioned that there was a correlation between the noise/issue and possibly charge mode, correct? I wonder if you definitively ruled that out, or just haven't gone deeper into it.
 
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