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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I'm having a misfire issue at start up I'm hoping you can help diagnose and establish a plan of attack for searching out the problem. Here is what I got:

V70R, all stock, bought it at 28k miles in 2011, all scheduled maintenance performed by the book at dealer, only ever used castrol full synthetic I supply, 102k miles now, original coils, plugs changed at 60-70k

About a week and a half ago the car began to stutter on my wife at start up (it's her car). She turned it off and on again with no issues but it had thrown a code. When I got home the next day I went out to the car and had the same misfire let it run until the revs dropped then turned it off and on again with no misfires at restart. Checked the codes and it had thrown P0302 and P0304 cylinder 2 & 4 misfire. this misfire does not always happen, a few days this week it started in the morning with out any issues at all.

Originally I thought it was a ambient cold start issue because it was only misfiring in the morning when the ambient temp was in the 50s until yesterday when it misfired after work when the temp was 71. Again I let it run till the revs dropped turned it off then on again with out the misfire. The misfire never occurs while driving, although I have not been pushing it since the issues started.

Through searching on here I found coil related misfires, potential pcv misfire issues and coolant leak issues.

Coils:

Original. I had originally thought this was the issue until I pulled the codes and saw the misfire is on two cylinders. Isn't it unlikely that two coils would fail at the same time? To trouble shoot this should I remove the cover and swap the coils around to see if the misfire moves?

Pcv:

Original. Did the glove test after I looked at the top hose down through the intake and found oil vapor leaking out at what appears to be a lip where the top hose meets another connection (?) just below the top of the manifold. It also looked rather grimey so I know at the very least I need to replace that hose even if it isn't the cause of the misfire. I do not see any drips on the driveway though.

When I attached the glove to the oil fill connection the glove did not blow up but was sucked in slightly. I have also not seen the dip stick popping out.

Coolant:

Have never had radiator or hose issues and have never had to fill the exp tank although the current level is closer to the min than the max. Car has never over heated and the needle has never moved past dead center on the gauge. If there was a crack or leak in gasket I would have thought I'd have a misfire at every start up after sitting for a while. I have also not witnessed any large amounts of white smoke during the misfire or smelled any out of the ordinary smells from the exhaust.

Maf:
Stock never been touched to my knowledge.

Where do you guys think I should start? My usual approach would be to replace every potential but business isn't great this year and unplanned expenses means I need to be more targeted in my approach.

Any input is appreciated and thanks for bearing with me on the long post.


Ps
Here is some freeze frame data from the thrown codes, maybe it means something to one of you guys.

Fuel sys1- OL
Fuel sys2- NA
Calc load %- 41.2
Ect(F)- 64.4
stft b1%- 0.0
Ltft b1%- (-1.6)
Fuel pres(psi)- 55.3
Eng rpm- 1753
Speed (mph)- 0
Spark advance (deg)- 1.5
IAT(f)- 60.8
MAF(lb/min)- 3.6
Tps(%)- 23.1
Run time(sec)- 5
Command evap(%)- 0.0
BARO(InHg)- 28.9
Ecu volts(V)- 14.539
Load value (%)- 63.9
EQ ratio- 1.058
Rel tps(%)- 11.0
Ambient (f)- 57.2
Tps b(%)- 23.1
Acc pedal d(%)- 7.8
Acc pedal e(%)- 7.8
Command tac(%)- 14.9


Thanks!
 

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Combustion gas check.


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Coils:

Original. I had originally thought this was the issue until I pulled the codes and saw the misfire is on two cylinders. Isn't it unlikely that two coils would fail at the same time? To trouble shoot this should I remove the cover and swap the coils around to see if the misfire moves?
I would start here. These have very commonly failed by now. Worth a check and it's easy to do.

BaxtR's recommendation is cheap and easy to try, as well.
 

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I would start here. These have very commonly failed by now. Worth a check and it's easy to do.

BaxtR's recommendation is cheap and easy to try, as well.
i was just re reading through this and i would also check coils and plugs. if they havent been replaced since you got the car then i would recommend replacing them..

EDIT: you said you replaced them about 30-40k ago.. i would check plugs about every 25-30k but thats just me. maybe they need to be re gapped


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I would start here. These have very commonly failed by now. Worth a check and it's easy to do.

BaxtR's recommendation is cheap and easy to try, as well.
+1

After 102k miles on original coils, I'm thinking coils.
 

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Dying coils like to give up the ghost when they encounter the first cold temps of fall since the big temp swing adds stress to the decaying coil insulation and makes them more likely to short.

Once they warm up they come back on line, so my money is on the coils. Been replacing bad coils on my neighbors truck lately and now that fall is getting crisp we now realize we have another to change.
 

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I have also read on this forum that it is not uncommon at all for a few (coils) to fail around the same time
 

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Just from a purely statistical perspective, two coils simultaneously going bad is more likely than rolling snake eyes on a set of dice. Old coils getting their first cold snap is a great way to make more than one die at the same time. Its like randomly shooting into a house and hitting more than one person.
 

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Check the wires to each coil. I had mine dry rot and arc on coil 4. Found and fixed.
 

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Have the same issue with mine #2 and #4 misfire on cold start-up. I have replaced all the Plugs and the #2 and the #4 ignition coils. Still have the issue. I think it might be carbon deposits on the valves so they may not be closing tightly. This only happens when it first starts when it is cold. I do not have a check engine light though (just feel it). When running scans I always have multiple misfires on these 2 cylinders. I have run Seafoam through it a couple of times but it's still there. I just deal with it and I drive the crap out of mine. The car runs beautifully regardless of this problem though.

Matt
 

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20z bottle of techron and a heavy foot
I've never needed to use this on my Rs, but I've absolutely used it on all of my carbureted engines with incredible success. If you're having fuel system build-up issues, that stuff is definitely capable of treating it.
 

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I would definitely check the gap on the plugs. I bought some oem plugs and never checked the gap and about 6-8 months later I started having misfire issues. They were only a few hundredths of an inch off but after I gapped them my idle has been much improved and I haven't been getting any weird stutters or hesitations or anything major.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update:

This past Saturday morning my wife calls me after driving two miles in the VR to Starbucks that the low coolant message appeared. Instantly I thought the worst.

Had her wait until I arrived to look at it. Coolant is now below the mark I made last week and was below the min mark on the tank. We left the car and drove to the stor to buy coolant. Filled it to half way and immediately drove the car to the dealer. I figured if it's a hose leak they will find it faster and if it were anything worse then they were the only ones to have touched it.

Got a call today with the news I was not hoping for, Bad head gasket! Dealer suggested I Trade it in after quoting me 3500 to fix it; I suggested they call the Volvo rep as it is unacceptable that a stock car with 102k miles whose engine has in large part only been serviced by them have a bad head gasket. They were very understanding and told me they would get in touch with them.

My question to you guys is has anyone had a head gasket go on a stock motor with this mileage, and what if anything did Volvo do about it? What other prices have you guys gotten on this work? While I like to turn a wrench, watching this job on YouTube did not leave me feeling good about doing it myself.

Thoughts, advice?

Thanks!
 

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Don't let them replace your HG without doing a complete inspection of the cylinders for cracks. Several folks here have paid good money to replace head gaskets only to have the problem remain
 

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Don't let them replace your HG without doing a complete inspection of the cylinders for cracks. Several folks here have paid good money to replace head gaskets only to have the problem remain
^ This, the only way your HG is blown is if the car has recently been badly overheated. If not then sleeves are your likely culprit.
 

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Yeah thats a block crack from all the data in my last research. Get your money out of Volvo if you can. I swear this should be a class action.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Volvo will not provide any goodwill assistance. Their reasoning is the duration of time outside of warranty. I don't think I'll be buying another Volvo.

Is there a way to confirm its a crack in the sleeves and not the actual head gasket without going through the expense of having the head removed?

Thanks.
 
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