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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. About a week ago I replaced the rear trailing arm bushing with a powerflex poly bushing. Also I replaced the rear control arm bushings with ipd camber bushings. I bolted everything up and tried to get the alignment as straight as possible. Took it to get an alignment and the guy tells me the best he could do is 2.3 degrees to on the pass rear. I just replaced that toe link about 1-2k miles ago to correct the same issue. But back the the toe was only out one or two tenths of a degree. And it was fine after I realigned it. So I knew something was up. I was thinking maybe I installed the trailing arms on the wrong sides but I checked them by part number and they seem right. So the guy aligns the toe all around to compensate for that huge 2.3 degree discrepancy.

Fast forward to yesterday. I hit a bump less than a minute away from my destination and I hear this horrible grinding noise. It sounded like the first time I put my trans and subframe back on (it ended up being the prop shaft rubbing that heat shield that it goes through, I bent it out of the way and never had a problem since).

Then I notice the steering wheel is at the 10:30/11:00 range. Wtf? Then the check engine light pops on. Then the DSTC service message comes up. So with a jack and tire iron I try to bend the heat shield as much as I can. The grinding isn't as bad. I limp it to a friend's place and check all the major suspension components- tie rods, control arms, hubs, wheel bolts, axles, etc. everything seems fine. So I barely limped it home.

TL;DR

Replaced trailing arm bushing with poly, installed ipd camber arm bushings, get alignment. Best they can do
Is 2.3 degrees toe on rear pass side. Used to be 0.0 after on replaced the toe link less than 2k miles ago. Steering wheel gradually drifts way out of whack (obviously from toe). Hit bump, hear grinding noise, and suspension thunks, check engine light and dstc message pops on.

I know it's safe to say one of the rear toe link eccentric bolts HAS to be loose from the idiot tech. But any idea what the hell else is going on? I know the drive shaft has a bad cv in the front. I did see the O2 sensor cable testing on the coolant like for the turbo. But as far as dstc goes??? And also why is one side suddenly out 2.3 degrees.

Obviously I need to photo document everything so that shop can pick up the bill.
 

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Did you bend the toe rod? I know mine was bent and it was bad. LOL. Very bad.

Also, you may need the iPD rear toe bars to get the toe right.

Grinding is probably drive shaft somewhere. But it could be any bearing or drivetrain bit going up in smoke.

In the past I have taken an old cell phone that was disposable, set it to record video, and drove over it slow with it facing up to find a grinding noise. There are also creative places you can tape such a thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's not the worst idea.

To reiterate: the toe link has been replaced recently and was fine before the install.

And I can't find my dice unit or my general obd scanner. So I have no idea what the hell is going on.

Any ideas about the steering wheel being cocked 45 degrees to the left and dstc message?

I assume the alignment went out, but the tie rods are tight and toe link eccentric bolts seem fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just scanned the code. P0089. Fuel pressure regulator. I going to check the fuel system and see if it's the pem, pump, or pressure sensor. That code seems to be completely unrelated. But it said I drove on it for 98 miles which was right about when everything went nuts. I found my dice unit so I'm going to see what is going on with the anti skid control message.

As for the steering wheel going out, I'm going to check the toe links and tie rods for any signs of loosening up. Beyond that, I'm at a loss.

Also I'm going to pull the prop shaft to see what condition the center support bearing is in.
 

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Also check spring seats and LCA bushings, you could have damaged all kinds of things when you hit that bump. Hell, for that matter you need to get under your car and carefully inspect it, if you slammed it hard enough to temporarily glitch the fuel control system you shocked everything in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It wasn't a hard bump. Nothing worse than a man hole cover.

Spring seats look fine. All strut bolts + nuts are fine. I'm going though the control arm bolts now
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Both rear eccentric bolts weren't tight on the toe links. Barely more than finger tight. Lesson of the day: never trust anyone and befriend someone with an alignment rack. I think I might invest in toe plates after this whole debacle. Also I'm sure the toe wasn't messed up on the passenger rear corner because it's pretty apparent the tech had no idea what he was doing.

The Volvo steering module is apparently clever enough to figure out when the alignment is boned. At least according to
Vida where I had an out of alignment code.

The heat shield on the body had loose bolts, so I bent it out of the way and bolted it down. That's what was rubbing against the drive shaft.

As for the fuel system I have to narrow it down. Any ideas besides checking fuel pump load and checking fuel pressure values?
 

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If the bump was enough to slosh around the remaining gas in a nearly empty tank then it might have been a temporary glitch. Clear it and see if it stays away, if it comes back it may be a separate issue that coincidentally occurred.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The lowest it ever went to was half a tank. I'm almost positive it's a legitimate fault code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
In case anyone encounters a similar problem, it appears the fuel pressure sensor conveniently decided that it was time to stop working. A $50 sensor from Amazon did the trick.
 
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