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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
where to get that, instead of buying a whole new switch (lie the one for antenna, hazard lights or sunroof) ?? i have 97` 960, and i cant find them in automotive stores... <br>dealer?
 

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Re: mini lightbuls in the switches (VolvoBob)

Welcome to Swedespeed, Maciej.<p>If you still have some prize money remaining <p><A HREF="http://www.retailaccess.com/prizes/RA_2005_01.html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.retailaccess.com/prizes/RA_2005_01.html</A><p>visit here for bulbs...<p><br><A HREF="http://www.mysimon.com/Auto-Parts-and-Accessories/9000-10940_8-0.html?sdcq=dnatrs-price_range_0_10-au_compatible_with_volvo-au_by_year_1997-960/dflltrail-Below" TARGET="_blank">http://www.mysimon.com/Auto-Pa...Below</A> $10~Volvo~1997~960<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Prize is loooong time gone ;P<p>and light bulbs... aparently dealer is the only option, for $7 a piece <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/zeroforum_graphics/screwy.gif" BORDER="0"> ( a bit too pricey for a tiny light bulb) so since i think that is far too high for a light bulb, I will converse my swithces to LED, and even if one will be more than $7, they will last forever... <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
914890
 

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Re: (He3r0)

1-800-745-6023<p><A HREF="http://www.icc-control.net/W-Interconnections--Inc..html" TARGET="_blank">http://www.icc-control.net/W-I....html</A><p>In stock - call for price.<p>George Dill<p>
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Re: (gdill2)

too late <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/frown.gif" BORDER="0"><br>though, ii have in car more lightbulbs that requied replacement,<br>i`ve converted switches to LED`s, <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> about 5 minutes for one <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"><br>Picture Before:<br><IMG SRC="http://he3r0.ovh.org/volvo/b4.jpg" BORDER="0"><p>Picture After:<br><IMG SRC="http://he3r0.ovh.org/volvo/aftr.JPG" BORDER="0"><p>Only one warning for somebody that will decide to follow my steps,<br>original ilumination is green`ish, filter in the switch is blue, so yellow light from regular lightbulb + blue filter = green`ish light. I`ve forgot about that and I did put white LED`s, so now I have that blue`ish lookin color. <br>so for "original" look, yellow LED`s are requied. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://********************/smile/emthup.gif" BORDER="0"> <p><br>Ps. Please dont laugh from my soldering skills... im still mastering them <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: (ko_kidd)

Radioshack, bright white 1100mcd + 1kohm resistor, per lightbulb.
 

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Re: (He3r0)

Awesome, I'll definitely have to try this out and see how it works. <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/cool.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (ko_kidd)

How did you come up with that figure--I'm having trouble figuring out what the current of the vehicle is.<p>I know the voltage is 12V...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yeah and 1kohm will work with any led, <br>1,5 and 3v <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"><p>and... dimmer works <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (He3r0)

How did you work out this math?<p>I'm not doubting you but it doesn't make sense to me.<p>DC circuit in series:<p>V = I * R<p>current is like 220 amps (maybe) * 1000 ohms = 220,000 volts<p>I mean there's probably something I'm missing here, but of course I'm assuming the amperage is the same throughout the car--unless someone can explain why not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: (ko_kidd)

usually LED can take max of 20mili Amps for 12v ive got about 1kohm<br>for 220v should be ok 100kohm. <br>forget about math <br>get a multimeter and variable resistor/potentiometer (VR)<br>and play <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"> <br>DC(+)------------VR------------multimeter---LED<br>DC(-)---------------------------------------------LED<p>set VR on max, and check reading on multimeter, now go down with VR check reading on multimeter, and look at LED <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/wink.gif" BORDER="0"> its fun <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0"><p>and math... you can check results afeter tests <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/tongue.gif" BORDER="0"> <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0"> <p>
 

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Re: (ko_kidd)

A good website to get good LEDs cheap is <A HREF="http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/" TARGET="_blank">http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/</A>. I used their LEDs for a number of applications in my car including upgrading from old school bulbs.
 

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Re: (VolvoIntimidator)

How well are these bulbs working for you?<p>I mean I bought some from radio shack--I'd have to search for the exact rating--and they're pretty bright <U>but the beam is narrow</U>. <p>I'd say it's relatively as bright as the original bulbs but I didn't bother to try and fix together the housing because the beam flat-out wasn't wide enough to light my instrument panel enough.<p>I have a 740 and the lights I'm trying to replace have a little clear plastic Y-thing that takes the light from a bulb and splits it in two and sends it to two instruments.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (ko_kidd)

actually they're working really good, but one is illuminating one switch. if I were you, I would try to eliminate that Y thing and put 2 diodes instead of one with that splitter, but that maybe more time and money consuming then that whole thing is worth.<p>I will try to take some pictures of my switches.<p>Have fun...<br>Maciej <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/biggrin.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: (He3r0)

just did that in my 940 with the Y thingy, does not look bad, but 11mcd is a bit too dim, anuthing stronger will rock <IMG NAME="icon" SRC="http://www.vwvortex.com/vwbb/smile.gif" BORDER="0">
 

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Re: (ko_kidd)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD><i>Quote, originally posted by <b>ko_kidd</b> »</i></TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming the amperage is the same throughout the car--unless someone can explain why not.</TD></TR></TABLE><p>It's voltage that's constant, you figure current out last. Voltage and load determine current. The resistor is actually there because without it, the LED will burn itself up by drawing more current than it can actually handle.<p>So 14v/1000 ohms = .014 amps, or 14 mA. Keeps the LED nice and cool and it'll last forever. Another sanity check on your math would have been to look at the power window circuit fuse. It's got a 30 amp fuse on it? No way 220 amps could go through the switch.<p>
 
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