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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here is my 67 122. I have had this car since 04. I copy and pasted most of this from my build thread on turbobricks, so sorry if it reads a little weird in places. Here is a link to all the pictures from the project http://www.pbase.com/mikejr/67_122_project







I have always loved the 122s. They are my favorite Volvo model. I have wanted one for a very long time. I have had a few of them but they were part cars. I have never owned one that you could actually drive. I thought about buying one that was already restored, but I tried that with a 62 P1800. It looked great but it was a lemon.



It had been badly restored. So I wanted a 122 that I could restore myself. So I knew exactly what was done to the car from the ground up, and I could do it the way I wanted.

I found the car on eBay in Boca Raton FL. Shipped it cost me around $500.00. The body as a whole is in good shape. It does need floor pans and some other patch panels, but that is an easy fix. One neat thing about the car is that it hadn't been a running car for about 6 years. When I got it I put a new battery in it and a little gas, and after about 3 minutes of tring to crank it it started right up. The idle was great and it stayed running. I was amazed.

I will be documenting the restoration and will be asking for some suggestions about certain aspects of the project. Stay tuned. There's more to come.
http://www.pbase.com/mikejr/67_122_project&page=1

MikeJr.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I pulled the motor and cut out the old floor pans. This is the original b18 that came out of the car.







All painted and ready to go right? Wrong! I got my hand on a 122 rally car. It had a bored over b18 with a fuel inj. head, stahl header, street performance cam, weber. Also it had a full ipd suspension with HD bilsteins. Here is the motor



Here are some of the pics of the floor pan. They were rusted from the inside out due to bad weather striping. Water had been standing in the pans for who knows how long.

















Cutting out the cancer.









I bought the new floor pans from http://www.scandcar.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I looked around to see it anyone made main frame rail sections or the e-brake rail extension but nobody does so I made my own.

This is the main frame rail section


































 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Worked on the body a little today. Fabbed up the right hand inner rocker panel patch. I had to reuse the jack mount from the old panel but it wasn't in to bad of shape.




I also used POR-15 on the right side frame rails before welding the new pans in. I did this on the left side too, but I forgot to take pics.



and on some fabbed up parts


Also fitted my short shifter tranny tunnel...


so I can install this


but first I have to do this


And what's this?




and last but not least I traced out and drilled parts for the motor mount brackets
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Did a little 8.8 work. I shortened the long side to match the short side length.








I got the angle right cause the axles match up perfectly


Test fit not so good. The stock control arms push the rear end to far back. It's due to the axle tubes on the 8.8 being double the diameter of the stock rear end. Also even with the lowering coils the car sits higher than stock ride height for the same reason. I'll have to do something different.



I also test fit a 17x7.5 Ford Police Intercepter wheel with a 215/45R17 dunlop on it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Decided on adjustible rods and hotrod type coilovers for the rear. That way I can put the rear end where ever I want it.




8.8 Install pics. The adjustable arms are going to work perfectly. There is so much adjustability now. I made the arms with a left hand on one end and a right hand on the other, that way all you have to do is twist the arm in or out to make it longer or shorter. Don't judge the welds :p It's just tacked together while I fit everything.




That Shiny thing sticking out of that bracket is where I plan to mount the coilover



Where and how I plan to mount the panhard rod






 

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Nice rebuild. Too bad that a car from Florida got so much rust. Unless of course, the car came from the north ...

You may want to get a set of SU carbs for this well built engine. If you have a high revving engine, you may want to get a set of 4.56 gears for it for full racing performance, at the expense of freeway driving (unless of course you get an OD for it!).

Those wheels and tires may be too much for it. These cars are light, they don't need so much rubber.

I like the color too. The metallic colors nicely fit these cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It actually rusted from the inside out due to leaky wheatherstrips. The underside of the floor pans had zero rust. It will have a 4:10 with a limited slip in the 8.8. I hope to make enough power with the engine to make quick work of the wide tires. Also I plan to paint it a more solid color like black, red, or white.
 

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Mike, I know that these tires look "hot" and consistent with latest automotive fashion. But those cars handle very well with stock size or slightly larger tires. My ipd car has 4.5" wagon wheels and 165 tires, and still corners extremely well. I am sure it would do a bit better with more rubber. But I think that you will definitely be well into the "diminishing returns" range with these huge tires.

The actual benefit of the super low profile characteristic is not so much for handling. Cornering force is not too sensitive to the section height. The lower profile tires only reduce slip angle needed for the same cornering force, but also make adhesion loss more sudden. These tires were developed for fitting huge wheels (necessary for huge brake rotors) and still low and tight wheel wells of modern aerodynamic cars. You may have lot's of downsides for such huge tires, which can be steering difficulties, accelerated ball joint wear etc. In fact, the ipd set up needs a small steering wheel for rapid steering correctings when driving fast, and that it might be tough with such large tires. Finally, the actual torque you will transmit to the tires is limited by the 4.10 rear. Even cars with 4.56 or 4.88 are happy with much smaller tires.

May be you should start with smaller tires first, and if you don't like them try larger. I think that the optimum tires size for an ipd Amazon is about 185-65 to 195-65 (certainly no larger than 205) on a 15x6 or 15x5.5 wheel. My stock Amazon seems happy with the 185-65 on the stock 4" wheels. Still corners well, but lacks the response and high lateral g's that my ipd does (despite smaller tires).

One day, I will upgrade my ipd Amazon to larger tire sizes. For now, the 165's are still a bunch of fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here is how I cupped the front lower control arms.



This is not my picture. I forgot to take one during the process, but this is how I did mine and where I got the idea from


Here is mine after I welded it up. I extended it down 2"







And here is how I did the panhard rod.







Front suspension is apart. Time for powdercoating.
 

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Looking good man, I've thought about cupping the a-arms like that, and then using a coilover adjuster pad for fine tuning ride height, but the lazy man in me just uses lowering coils, or cut coils when I'm feeling cheap. I just got all my stuff powdercoated and they did a good job masking all the threaded holes, but they didn't mask my tapered hole in the steering link, so I gotta clean that out. You might want to mention it when you drop them off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Looking good man, I've thought about cupping the a-arms like that, and then using a coilover adjuster pad for fine tuning ride height, but the lazy man in me just uses lowering coils, or cut coils when I'm feeling cheap. I just got all my stuff powdercoated and they did a good job masking all the threaded holes, but they didn't mask my tapered hole in the steering link, so I gotta clean that out. You might want to mention it when you drop them off.
Cool! Thanks for the powdercoating tip. I was thinking of doing a coilover type for the front but I too am cheap and will see how this set up work first. I'm using TME lowing coils in the front with the 2" cup so it should be pretty low.

I like your build BTW. I am following it closely.
 

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Cool stuff man. I'm doing something similar with my 1800S, narrowing an 8.8 rearend. I narrowed mine by pressing the tube out, cutting it and rewelding it though. I'm more shade-tree like than "use a $500 axle shortening kit" and thought it would help keep things in line better. If anyone else wants to go this route, keep in mind you'll need a very tall, very heavy press to get the tube back in, something like a 100 ton.

What kind of coilover units are you using?
 
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