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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! My name is Micah, and this morning I bought my second-to-dream car - a 2004 Volvo S60R. (The first is a VR, obviously 🙃) It’s an M66, Titanium Grey over Nordkap. Interior is a bit rough (though really only the drivers seat, arm rest, and shifter show significant wear), but the paint is in really good shape other than the wing. I used a block/head gasket tester (the one you put on the coolant overflow tank) and it passed with flying colors, err, I mean, no changing colors. :) I’ll describe the car more at the end of the post so people who don’t care can skip it lol.

4C works and is new all around. The AWD though I believe doesn’t work. Or at least it doesn’t feel like it works. how can I confirm that the AWD system is/isn’t working, and if it’s not working, should I disable it to prevent further damage? And how would I go about doing that? And is there a way to know before disassembly if it’s just the collar or the entire angle gear? IIRC those are the problematic parts…

The car idles really well, but it seems to every once in a while stutter for a second. Anyone have an idea on what this could be? The only light/message was the Anti-Skid service. We forgot to bring our VIDA and DICE unit to check it out and when we got home, we couldn’t get it to pair.

the shifter has a bit of an odd feel to it, when we first got in it was really hard to move. The car hadn't been driven in a month or two, and had only gotten about 5,000 miles of driving in the past year. As we drove on it loosened up, and after about 30 miles feels almost normal. But, left to right is still a bit tight. Is there something that I should lubricate in particular?

last but not least, is there anything I should do/check ASAP? I’ve already removed the exhaust bracket of death. The PCV is also in working order (it quickly sucked the glove in when I tested it.)

anyways on to blabbering because I’m excited 🙃 4C is the coolest F-ing thing ever. There is a very noticeable difference between drive modes, and Advanced in particular is super fun. The paint looks really good overall and I’m excited to buff it and see how good it can be. This is the fastest car I’ve ever driven by far and it almost startles me every time I get pushed back into my seat. It’s a big step up from the 90 horsepower I got out of my previous Yaris. I LOVE this car.

Thank you for any and all help, I really appreciate it. I’m looking forward to becoming an active member and to getting to know my car better.
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Congrats! Sounds like VIDA is the first thing to get working to figure out what to look at first with the Anti-Skid. Just got that message fixed on my '06SR (215K miles) with a replacement AOC pump and repaired DEM (at Xemodex). My 4C is working as well since I've replaced the struts/shocks with the Monroe OE version over the past 5 years. Was switching between 4C modes today on a multi microbrewery beer pickup run today (just because). Nice to have the AWD back for wet roads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! We are gonna take another crack at it tomorrow and see what happens. VIDA works with my dads V50 and also worked with my XC70 I used to own (RIP) so hopefully we were just too tired to do it properly 🤞🏻 So the anti-skid light does mean AWD doesn’t work (whether it’s broken or just disabled?) I may have misunderstood/read into your post too much though lol. Luckily here in FL we are getting out of the rainy season and getting into fall/winter, also known as slightly cooler and drier summer. So AWD is hardly a concern as far as getting around lol. I don’t know if the previous owner put Monroe’s or the official Volvo ones on it, they say Volvo if that means anything 🤷🏻‍♂️ To my knowledge they’re identical so it doesn’t matter anyway. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Another question I nearly forgot: how do I remove the plastic trim along the bumpers? I’ve seen people take it off, but I don’t want to just go yanking at it and break it ya know? Thanks
 

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Another question I nearly forgot: how do I remove the plastic trim along the bumpers? I’ve seen people take it off, but I don’t want to just go yanking at it and break it ya know? Thanks
Plastic body/trim tool will work just fine to remove the trim pieces without damaging the paint. Slide between trim and bumper cover and lever it out. Line up the tabs and press back into place when finished.
 

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I had a very similar idle and stutter problem on my car a while ago. I also felt it breaking up in 4th gear when I was above 5k rpm. Found out that when I was lazy and had a local indi shop do the plugs they used plugs that were half an inch too short. I swapped in Iridium's and it's been running like a champ. (Like the third time in 8 years I let a shop touch my car.... Never again) Maybe not your problem but wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and look.

So as for the AWD, hook up vida or something like a Matco scanner and follow the data outputs for AOC pump pressure and current. Also look at the signal when the car is in the air and in gear, If your wheels are not spinning that can help to isolate the issue. If that's all fine then look at the angle gear/ collar.

Next do a full stage zero and fluids you will be happy you did.

Next get rid of your rattles with Hush mat tape from Amazon, makes the R that much better.

Lastly enjoy it, R's are demanding cars, I've owned my 07 m66 s60R for 8+ years and 140k miles. I love it to death but they are a money pit esp when you start going to heavy mods like I have, just remember the fun when dealing with the suck. I just spent 8+ hours with 2 other guys doing a ton of repairs on a 2005 S60R lol they can snowball if not kept up with on maintenance.

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S60R's are a work of art, and I completely sympathize with your excitement about the 4C suspension and the pulls that that 300HP 5-cylinder can draw. When I described my R to people, I would tell them that the car was designed by Volvo engineers who had a bottomless budget and were told to "max out anything and everything" that existed as the 2.5T at the time; humongous rotors with 4-capiler piston Brembo brakes, a bored-out 2.5L stretching to meet that coveted 300HP milestone, 4C electronic suspension, every option available on other S60 trims, the most beautiful shifter to ever be designed,18-19" Pegs, and the most elegant exterior (IMO with the Sport kit).

Putting almost 225K on my '05 R, I went through similar faults as well. My AWD went out while driving 300 miles through a Midwest blizzard. and it was due to the sleeve collar stripping, as diagnosed by a reputable specialist, although there are a few reasons why the AWD fails on these models. Having deep pockets is important in properly maintaining any Volvo, but is specially important for R's. It certainly pays off though.

Enjoy your R, as maintained ones are becoming increasingly rare each year. I still say my 05 was my favorite car I've ever owned, and that when I find another in Passion Red with the sport kit, there will be no stopping me from buying it a second time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Plastic body/trim tool will work just fine to remove the trim pieces without damaging the paint. Slide between trim and bumper cover and lever it out. Line up the tabs and press back into place when finished.
perfect! I’ll take care of this today then, thank you!

I had a very similar idle and stutter problem on my car a while ago. I also felt it breaking up in 4th gear when I was above 5k rpm. Found out that when I was lazy and had a local indi shop do the plugs they used plugs that were half an inch too short. I swapped in Iridium's and it's been running like a champ. (Like the third time in 8 years I let a shop touch my car.... Never again) Maybe not your problem but wouldn't hurt to pull the plugs and look.

So as for the AWD, hook up vida or something like a Matco scanner and follow the data outputs for AOC pump pressure and current. Also look at the signal when the car is in the air and in gear, If your wheels are not spinning that can help to isolate the issue. If that's all fine then look at the angle gear/ collar.

Next do a full stage zero and fluids you will be happy you did.

Next get rid of your rattles with Hush mat tape from Amazon, makes the R that much better.

Lastly enjoy it, R's are demanding cars, I've owned my 07 m66 s60R for 8+ years and 140k miles. I love it to death but they are a money pit esp when you start going to heavy mods like I have, just remember the fun when dealing with the suck. I just spent 8+ hours with 2 other guys doing a ton of repairs on a 2005 S60R lol they can snowball if not kept up with on maintenance.

Sent from my Phone 2 using Tapatalk
thanks for the help! I’ll get VIDA running this afternoon and check those outputs. Once I get the car tagged and get tires on it I’ll grab all of the fluids and change them all. I’m planning to keep the engine mostly stock to try and keep maintenance costs down somewhat but I know it’ll definitely take some $$s to keep it running and I’m OK with that.

S60R's are a work of art, and I completely sympathize with your excitement about the 4C suspension and the pulls that that 300HP 5-cylinder can draw. When I described my R to people, I would tell them that the car was designed by Volvo engineers who had a bottomless budget and were told to "max out anything and everything" that existed as the 2.5T at the time; humongous rotors with 4-capiler piston Brembo brakes, a bored-out 2.5L stretching to meet that coveted 300HP milestone, 4C electronic suspension, every option available on other S60 trims, the most beautiful shifter to ever be designed,18-19" Pegs, and the most elegant exterior (IMO with the Sport kit).

Putting almost 225K on my '05 R, I went through similar faults as well. My AWD went out while driving 300 miles through a Midwest blizzard. and it was due to the sleeve collar stripping, as diagnosed by a reputable specialist, although there are a few reasons why the AWD fails on these models. Having deep pockets is important in properly maintaining any Volvo, but is specially important for R's. It certainly pays off though.

Enjoy your R, as maintained ones are becoming increasingly rare each year. I still say my 05 was my favorite car I've ever owned, and that when I find another in Passion Red with the sport kit, there will be no stopping me from buying it a second time.
thanks! I’m looking forward to learning and working on this car and enjoying it. I’ll get VIDA working today and see what I can find about the all wheel drive.

what’s the sport kit? I’ve not heard of this, is this something I should get for my R when we get into fixing cosmetics? Edit: I’ve just gone and googled it, and I have seen that before and love it. If it’s possible I may try and put one on my car long term :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So this morning I woke up and went to do and check some things, and noticed that the coolant was low after my drive yesterday. I nearly fainted and was freaking out for a solid 30 seconds, but then looked under the car and found a puddle under the radiator. I’ve never before in my life been happy to have a leaking radiator but it just happened today. I’m gonna start taking it apart now and then order parts.

My car is like, “welcome to SR ownership! I need a $400 part now. Better get used to it”
 

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Pretty much. Show us what it looks like under the hood. Since you're going to be draining coolant anyways, I'd replace the coolant expansion tank at the same time to get rid of the gross yellowed one you probably have under there currently.

Also, if it doesn't have it, you need to replace the power steering fluid reservoir with the '05+ redesigned one asap.
Check to see if it's the '04- one by looking to see if it has orange writing on the cap ('05+ one has no orange on it). Check to see if the reservoir or its hoses are oily and/or if the sides of the reservoir are bulging outward (should be flat) -- if it has those symptoms you can't delay changing it. Regardless, if it's not swapped out for the upgraded reservoir, you're risking the steering rack going bad sooner rather than later, which nears the $2.5-3k mark.
 

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This is what it should NOT look like:


 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Pretty much. Show us what it looks like under the hood. Since you're going to be draining coolant anyways, I'd replace the coolant expansion tank at the same time to get rid of the gross yellowed one you probably have under there currently.

Also, if it doesn't have it, you need to replace the power steering fluid reservoir with the '05+ redesigned one asap.
Check to see if it's the '04- one by looking to see if it has orange writing on the cap ('05+ one has no orange on it). Check to see if the reservoir or its hoses are oily and/or if the sides of the reservoir are bulging outward (should be flat) -- if it has those symptoms you can't delay changing it. Regardless, if it's not swapped out for the upgraded reservoir, you're risking the steering rack going bad sooner rather than later, which nears the $2.5-3k mark.
ill take a picture in a couple minutes and post it up. It is currently partially disassembled, I’ve got the aluminum charge pipe and spark plug covers off to see the timing belt.

the previous owner had just replaced the power steering reservoir because it was leaking. It does have orange letters on the top though. Is it possible that he used the old cap? Is there some way to see if it’s the new one with an old cap or are the virtually identical? I don’t think it’s bulging but I’ll post a picture of it in a bit.

the coolant expansion tank is a little yellow but it’s really not bad, I’ll probably leave it for now and take care of it later. Id rather not spend more than I have to at the moment if you know what I mean.
 

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Coolant expansion tank costs around $60.
The problem with the PS reservoir is that it will start leaking again -- not a matter of if, but when, because it's an inherently flawed design. Yes, you can tell if it's the new or old design by looking at where the hoses leave the reservoir.
Old flawed design (like in the pics above) has one hose on the top half and one on the bottom half
Input device Automotive design Font Gadget Machine



While the '05+ good design has both hoses entering and exiting the bottom:
Gadget Personal protective equipment Auto part Font Plastic



The new one is a ~$85 part that can save you from an inevitable almost $3k bill later on. Highly recommend doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I took some pictures…
Car Hood Light Vehicle Motor vehicle

full shot of the engine… a valve cover gasket will definitely be needed. Now this car doesn’t really have a valve cover, right? It’s all one piece, which may be a pain in the ass. Whatever the case I may let it leak a bit of oil for a bit, and focus on bigger things. I put that towel in the pipe to keep things from visiting the intercooler while I was gone this morning. I’ll remember to remove it 🙃
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on top of the engine, under the cover - more oil. Yeesh. I pulled out all the plugs to check them, they look OK, but they were all literally finger tight. I don’t know how it ran with no lights or misfires tbh. I’ve torqued them all to 22 N-M, according to a FCP Euro video. The timing belt is also visible and I am pretty sure it looks OK. No cracks or signs of significant wear. The tensioner is not making any noise or anything so I’ll let it slide for now and I’ll replace it later on. No idea how old it is but it’ll probably be OK for a month or three of occasional driving.

Car Hood Auto part Gas Electric blue

its an old design PS reservoir. Ffff…it also does seem to have some oil on it which I managed to overlook the first time. How does this cause the PS rack to fail? And do you think it could slide for a month or two while the wallet takes a breather? The dollar signs are racking up fast, between tires, a rad, registration and tags, etc…

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this is just a look pretty cover right? It’s in the front-right of the engine bay. It doesn’t seem important or have anything under it, but I wanted to double check.

anything else look suspect under here? There’s obviously quite a bit of crud under the spot for the fuel injector covers. I spilled the bit of oil next to the filler cap lol. Thanks for your help!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I finished reassembly and started it up and let it get up to temp to see if I could make the rad leak again. I then let it run for about ten minutes, then I drove it up and down the road (and maybe gave it a bit of beans once or twice…) but no leaks. Unfortunately I’m leaving for a Halloween party so I won’t be able to keep an eye on it as it cools. Leave it for another day I guess.

this is where she sits
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(The hood has been closed since taking this picture. :) )

I had a lot less time today Than I thought so I didn’t mess with VIDA either. Still have no idea what’s up with that, I guess we will find out later. May be the weekend before I can get back out here though :(

-Micah
 

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Lol, glad I read this thread! I just learned about the updated power steering redevoir. Checked and I have the old one, no other symptoms but I guess it’s time to replace.

These cars keep you on your toes. Removed the exhaust bracket of death already btw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I took the bumper off today to look for leaks from the rad. Couldn’t find anything even with the car running, all dry. I let it get up to temp and then drive it for like 20 minutes, got into boost, etc., nothing. Level in the expansion tank hasn’t changed either. I wonder if it wasn’t completely full when I bought it, even when I checked it and thought it was lower than before it was still smack in the middle of max and min. I thought it was a little higher, but maybe I looked at it while it was hot… who knows. There wasn't very much under the car and I still can’t replicate it. So I checked the hoses to make sure they were tight and intact, and buttoned it back up. I’ll keep an eye on it for sure because it will leak again. Having had a car in the past that overheated from time to time I watch the temp gauge like a Hawk so I should be ok lol.

going to register and tag tomorrow, order some Hankook Ventus’s, and order a PS reservoir. Then she’ll be on the road! After that I’ll change fluids, figure out the all wheel drive and VIDA, and do plugs and coils probably. Then belts and other things, although those are in good shape so theyare on the back burner for now. I’ll check on them periodically though.

-Micah
 

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Coolant expansion tank costs around $60.
The problem with the PS reservoir is that it will start leaking again -- not a matter of if, but when, because it's an inherently flawed design. Yes, you can tell if it's the new or old design by looking at where the hoses leave the reservoir.
Old flawed design (like in the pics above) has one hose on the top half and one on the bottom half
View attachment 137753


While the '05+ good design has both hoses entering and exiting the bottom:
View attachment 137754


The new one is a ~$85 part that can save you from an inevitable almost $3k bill later on. Highly recommend doing it.
Sorry, OP for quickly hijacking your thread here:

I've got a 2004 S60R M66 and it has the old 2004 design on it. The steering rack has already been replaced by the previous owner at 102k miles and I'm at 113k miles now. Do I literally only need the new reservoir to do this upgrade? Any hoses or clamps I need? Just the reservoir?
 

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Sorry, OP for quickly hijacking your thread here:

I've got a 2004 S60R M66 and it has the old 2004 design on it. The steering rack has already been replaced by the previous owner at 102k miles and I'm at 113k miles now. Do I literally only need the new reservoir to do this upgrade? Any hoses or clamps I need? Just the reservoir?
You need the reservoir and the '05 hoses to have the correct lengths and diameters -- my fault for not including that in my original post. 100% a bolt on, and not hard to do. As for clamps, they're just clamps -- whatever holds it in place properly (not sketchy) is fine. Would ask @ScottishBrick for the correct PNs and everything needed for the swap.
 
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