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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Oh yay two things in just one week! Thanks October...my car succumbed to the spoopyness.

So I found myself this week with some fog showing up on the window while driving with the windshield vent on. Today I got a CEL and found a code for O2 sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1.

I tore the inside glovebox out and took the seat out - currently my top heatercore pipe is leaking at the Oring as expected. Yay. caught it early enough I don't have to take all the carpets out (stuck my hand back there and felt around, still dry).

Now that leaves me with a question - how do those heaterpipes that penetrate the firewall connect through that plastic block? Are they loose in that I can undo the plastic clamp at the heater core connection and push them outward a bit, replace the oring and slide them back together? The idea is to avoid having to disconnect the engine side stuff in the process while not damaging the heatercore in the process as well.

I plan on using some needle-nose vice-grips wrapped in duct tape to pinch the lines shut to prevent coolant loss on the engine side rubber hoses, but otherwise I have never attempted this sort of thing and the diagrams online are sort of scarce. most people seem to tear the heatercore and pipes out entirely and replace them - so it's you guys I am really looking for info from - are the pipes loose and can I slide them in and out freely without disconnecting anything? Do I have to disconnect engine side hoses?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Alrighty - so to answer the question I asked above - Yes - the metal pipes are loose in that penetration block through the firewall. You can push and pull on them from the outside without much effort when disconnected from the heatercore. That being said, you all were correct, it is very easy to snap off those plastic nibbies holding the rubber pipes to the aluminum pipe in the enginebay. I broke off one of them and managed to twist it to the unlock position, but couldn't remove it from the pipe. I twisted it back to the lock position and left it there. If anyone has some wisdom on how those work, please share.

Taking things apart wasn't super difficult. It is frustrating that the instructions I found were fairly easy to follow (a 2006 C70 on autozone's guide, only difference was it came with solid heatercore to firewall pipes) were easy but it was rather tough to get it disconnected and out of the airbox even with the pipes being separate and not breaking the plastic. That airbox plastic is brittle as all get out but it was 6 torx screws and the airbox cover was off - heatercore exposed.

That being said - I went to Ace Hardware and found some identical orings - they were 20mm ID and 22mm OD and 2mm thick. I spent nearly 4 hours trying to get the clamps back on them and I just couldn't get it done. I got incredibly frustrated at that point so I got out the dremel and went to town on the nibbies on the end of each of the pipes and put on some hose clamps and some 3/4" ID heater hose. Just got everything back together (including removing the seat and putting it back in, which was unnecessary and kind of a pain in my knees, but good to know there's no loose coolant floating around in the back). Either way job is done now (tested it to 180*F coolant temp at the heatercore before reassembly - no leaks) and shouldn't go bad in the future. Wrapping those locking needlenose with tape and clamping the heater hoses in the enginebay was the bees knees. Put a towel beneath the joints before pulling out the heatercore, very little spillage. Dumped the heatercore into a clean container and dumped it back into the coolant system after I resealed the system.

Basic List of things to do in order to do this job:
Order the Orings and Plastic Clamps first (3 dealerships around me didn't have it).

Remove the Passenger side glovebox outside (5 Torx screws) (3x connectors)
Remove inset Passenger side glovebox inside (4 torx screws)
Remove BCM (undo all connectors with their latches and remove from metal hanger).

Remove Waterfall (4 Torx Screws)
Remove Center Console (4 torx screws)
Remove Panel below dashboard (4 snaps)
Remove Driverside kickboard (3 Torx Screws) (1 connector if you have climate package).

Remove plastic cross in front of airbox that pushes air to the rear floorboards (flexes and bends no issues).
Remove Metal brackets on each side of airbox (3x 10mm bolts and 1x torx screw each side).
Remove 3x Torx screws each side of airbox.
Airbox cover slides out and down/towards trunk (wiggle and pull and wiggle, you'll see it separate, but be gentle).
(heatercore exposed now).

Remove clamps carefully and slowly separate heatercore from firewall pipes.
Gently lift up and flex and wiggle heatercore out of space. - Viola. Heatercore is very bendable and not very tolerant of it's bendability, so do not bend it.
Gently put things back together - you will notice when it's all perfect everything goes back together smoothly. It was tough to get the airbox cover back on correctly (took me about 3 tries), and the front glovebox cover another 3 tries. I those heater hose sections are 2.5" long - if you cut out the mating bits of each side of the pipe and make it a unform diameter, 3/4" ID hose works very easy and very smoothly to position/reposition/clamp

Start

Halfway done:

Final Result on reassembly:
 

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Looks nice. I would have gone straight to the hose and clamp method, personally. Do you really need to open up the whole airbox for just the leak? I guess it's a good chance to clean out any dirt and mold from the innards though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks nice. I would have gone straight to the hose and clamp method, personally. Do you really need to open up the whole airbox for just the leak? I guess it's a good chance to clean out any dirt and mold from the innards though.
Eh that's debateable.

Unfortunately - yes.
A part of me said that you could take a hacksaw blade or a dremel and just cut the section out with patience - but I know everyone says if you bend the heatercore pipes you'll need to replace it or it'll start leaking shortly thereafter. I would be afraid of being too heavy handed and bending the heatercore pipes while cutting with either a dremel or a hacksaw with it in the car, or even attempting to put the hose over one of the ends, as flexible as it is.
A part of me also says that you'll need to clean the connections up a bit (they are thick low grade aluminum so the stuff just folds in and over rather than cuts). In a pinch I'd say no, but if you wanted to do a good job you wouldn't have to worry about, I'd say yes.
 

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Yeah, I guess so. Well, nice job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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I've done the o-rings without removing the air box on my previous V50. It is a PITA and removing the air box may make it easier. A year after I did the o-rings, the heater core sprung a leak where the pipes are welded to the actual core. I may have bent then a little too much doing the o-rings.


I haven't had to do the ones on my present V50 but I am sure that I will need to at some point. In the meantime, I zip-tied a sheet of plastic in place to act as a shield to prevent coolant from spraying on the CEM.

In hind sight, I would do the heater hose and clamps.

Nice job.
 

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Same. I'd definitely do a heater hose and clamps if I was smarter at the time I had my previous leak. I just did the o-rings and clamps. Good job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had to cinch them down nice and tight unfortunately - i was getting a persistant leak that was showing up under pressure as the system heated up. So instead of snug and tug and good to go, I heated the car up and then snugged them down to tight and now there has been no leak and no steam on the windshield since Friday. If it makes it through the whole week I can call it good and put the glovebox back in and call it a job done.

Now I'm starting to get flywheel shudder when heatsoaked. The projects just get funner and funner. I guess a single piece Viva flywheel kit it is. May not do that one myself tho...might use the Volvo speciality shop in North Denver to get that one done.
 

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Big thanks to avenger for this write-up and advice on getting this job done.

I also cut all four pipe tips to be able to slide the rubber hoses over them, but in my case the lower (and smaller) of the two heater pipes was able to slide out pretty easily so I was able to cut that one off outside the car. For the larger pipe that I wasn't able to remove, I zip-tied it very tightly to the nearest secure object at an angle where I could dremel the tip off safely. For this pipe and the smaller pipe (in case you can't remove it) I highly recommend doing it this way. After avenger told me that he nicked his fingernail with the dremel while trying to hold the pipe, I was very worried thinking about how I'd get this done, but the zip-tie made it very easy.
 
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