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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got up to about $12K to spend, cash in hand. Most that I'm finding are in the 115K mile range. I tend to like the black plastic molding of the '04s better than the color matched on the '05+...V or S doesn't matter, but wife would rather an S. It'll be my car though.

I was cross shopping with MKIV VW GLIs (the 1.8T version, I used to have one) but having driven an E46 M3 and an AWD A4 for the past 2 years, I'm finding that I'm thrown off by the torque steer of the GLI, and so I've been looking at some AWD options. The S60/V70 Rs have always been high on my list.

So how reliable is a 110K to 125K mile example? What should I look for? I know quite a bit about the base I5s, but very little about the high pressure R engine. I imagine PCV stuff should be looked at, I'm looking at manual only, so no need for transmission checking, or does the manual have issues? AWD system need checked? Suspension parts? I know the adjustable suspension has issues, but not what they are.

Advice, please?
 

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Check the stickies and use the search feature...
 

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At that mileage you should be ready to rebuild the most of the suspension. Shocks are surely bad, bushings in front lca need to be changed.
Rear seems.to last longer, at least look good on my car.

Be sure the angle gear isn't leaking!

I got an 04 Vr myself, nice but expensive. Done a lot of repairs now. Mine is at 120k miles now, changed the most of the suspension. But now it probably will go another 120 k. :)
 

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V or S doesn't matter, but wife would rather an S. It'll be my car though.
Go VR

Wagons are now officially Man's territory. Nothing like being able to haul an amp, 2X4s, a rottie or fishing gear but still get sporty handling. The only SUV that can compare is a Cayanne. If you are shopping Cayannes, tho, you wouldn't be here.

Besides, with the exception of the torn up, dented and stickered FG VR I see weekly here, they tend to get treated better by the 1st owner. (I want to rescue that thing, grumble. Total travesty)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Go VR

Wagons are now officially Man's territory. Nothing like being able to haul an amp, 2X4s, a rottie or fishing gear but still get sporty handling. The only SUV that can compare is a Cayanne. If you are shopping Cayannes, tho, you wouldn't be here.

Besides, with the exception of the torn up, dented and stickered FG VR I see weekly here, they tend to get treated better by the 1st owner. (I want to rescue that thing, grumble. Total travesty)

Well, to be fair, I'm replacing an E46 M3, so the sedan is more appealing to me. We already have a wagon that is the family hauler; I'm more inclined to want a sedan. Plus my wife has laid down a rule that we're only allowed to have one Volvo wagon. She doesn't understand that a VR is not the same as her V70. All in all though, I like smaller cars, and the S60 is about as large as I want to go at this point.

I gotta say, the 110K+ mile ones worry me a bit, but if I find a 115K mile car with timing, water pump, tensioner, angle gear, and tranny done, I think I'd feel better about that than a 70K mile car without it done...
 

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Well, to be fair, I'm replacing an E46 M3, so the sedan is more appealing to me. We already have a wagon that is the family hauler; I'm more inclined to want a sedan. Plus my wife has laid down a rule that we're only allowed to have one Volvo wagon. She doesn't understand that a VR is not the same as her V70. All in all though, I like smaller cars, and the S60 is about as large as I want to go at this point.

I gotta say, the 110K+ mile ones worry me a bit, but if I find a 115K mile car with timing, water pump, tensioner, angle gear, and tranny done, I think I'd feel better about that than a 70K mile car without it done...
I would look in the classified section as members who are selling their VR or SR will have knowledge of some problems with the car and have it addressed possibly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Realistically, how reliable is an R that has had the struts done, the angle gear done, timing belt, water pump, etc...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I've got my eye on a pretty decent R...104K miles, timing belt hasn't been done. What should I check for to see if it needs it now or can wait until the 120K that it is stated at? I think I'd get it done now for safety's sake, but is there a way to look and see if it needs it? Take off the timing belt cover and look for cracks, etc?

Car itself is in pretty great shape:





Couple things worry me. One, the front bumper is sagging in the middle. Maybe a small crack underneath and it looks like it is not locked into place correctly, so I think with some finagling, I can snap it back into place, and cover up the crack with some sort of aftermarket lip. I know I've seen a few around that I liked. Also looks to be missing a center lower grill. I'm sure those aren't too expensive.



Also, the undercarriage looks, for the most part, corrosion free. One of the mounts on the front of the car (maybe a lower control arm mount?) looks really corroded, but I'm not sure how much of that is just road gunk that has accumulated and then started to crack, and how much of it is actual corrosion, and also the muffler looks like it's on its last legs. I'd put a bit louder exhaust on anyway, so that doesn't worry me too much.





It also has one odd ball tire. 3 of them are Falkens (not my favorite anyway, but still have decent tread) and the last is some other brand...how bad is it to have one wrong tire? I don't think a Haldex coupling is one of the AWD systems where having mismatched tires can burn up the diff, is it?
 

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The sag in the front bumper is referred to as "droopy lip" search that term for the various fixes it is common and there are no mounts under there to pop it back in to

It doesn't look like you are missing a grill the lower ic opening has no oem grill

You really want 4 of the same tires with relatively even tread wear on an awd vehicle.

That exhaust is rotting away aftermarket FTW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah. I've seen some saying custom is the way to go on these? That still the case? I don't want terribly loud, but I don't want it stock quiet either. I'd love in the range of my former E46 M3...maybe slightly louder...

Also, what tires do people find to be good? I can't find any tire threads...I know on M3 Forums there are all kinds of "What tires do you run" type of threads...Bridgestone is OEM according to Tirerack...?
 

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Isn't the timing belt replacement 105k on these cars?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Manual says 120K for 2004 and up P2 cars:

Timing belt

For proper functioning of the engine and its emission control systems, the timing belt and belt tensioner must be replaced every 105,000 miles (168,000 km) or at 120,000 miles (193,000 km) for the 2.5T engine on AWD models. Engine damage will occur if the belt fails.
 

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2004 s60r 78k miles, six speed
the good
titanium grey with orange interior all options 4cd in dash nav bluetooth rust free 18' wheels with nearly new continentals factory body kit bsr chip no accidents interior is in very very good used condition
in the last 1000 miles
i have put ft pads and rotors
rear pads and rotors
b fluid flush , both ft control arms ,both ft spring seats ,alignment oil change , spark plugs , torque bushing
i am a volvo tech i have owned it from 2005-2010 and then i bought it back from the guy i sold it too a few cosmetic blemishes nothing major at all

the bad
this car has lemon law title iy was bought back form the original owner when it was first sold , i bought from the volvo divisional manager in 2005
cash is king let me know if your interested
 

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Manual says 120K for 2004 and up P2 cars:
Just double checked and you're right, it does say 120k, though if you took a poll, many would have it replaced way before then. It also goes on to say at least in the '05 manual that there is an outside date of 10 years for replacement.

And finally, it says that PZEV vehicles have a 150k replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm gonna get it done, I think. Offered $8300 with him doing the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Agreed on the price, hopefully picking up this weekend.
 

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a guy wanting to sell isn't going to do the t-belt to your standards. lop $600 off whatever you agreed to and get it done yourself. You need to change the water pump too while you are in there. and that belt is a ticking time bomb.

Let's stop all the BS about how many miles...it has EXPIRED based on age.
 

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a guy wanting to sell isn't going to do the t-belt to your standards. lop $600 off whatever you agreed to and get it done yourself. You need to change the water pump too while you are in there. and that belt is a ticking time bomb.
Actually, my local dealer (who loves to sell you stuff you don't need) actually says wait to do the water pump until your 2nd timing belt, it will last way past even that so it's just a waste of money to do it with your first timing belt.
 
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