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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
**Clutch master cylinder** (I put the wrong title)

One of the 2 nuts for securing my clutch master cylinder to the firewall is missing, so my clutch pedal actuation isn’t quite how it should be. Clutch engagement is about an inch off the floor and the pedal travel is shortened overall - the clutch pedal sits below the brake pedal, unless I pull it backwards. I’ve been driving the car like this for over 2 years and it hasn’t been a huge issue, but it’s something I’d like to sort out as it could affect the life of the master cylinder. I also just want it to work exactly as it should!

I have tried to get a nut onto the stud coming from the firewall side into the footwell, with no luck. I simply can’t get enough of the stud to pass through the firewall to thread the nut on. I have had a friend press on the master cylinder from the engine bay side, to get the stud to poke through, but even then with a large pry bar there isn’t enough access to push it hard enough.

Since the master sits basically behind the brake booster and ABS, access is pretty brutal. I’m wondering if anyone has any tips for this situation, since I can’t find any useful information in my searches so far...
 

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In one write-up I read, they mentioned loosening the brake booster to get some better access.

I honestly didn't have much trouble working solo without doing all of that. It was a little tight, but I was able to get the nut started and tightened down.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
In one write-up I read, they mentioned loosening the brake booster to get some better access.

I honestly didn't have much trouble working solo without doing all of that. It was a little tight, but I was able to get the nut started and tightened down.
Yeah, I think I saw the same one on MVS? Or did you see it elsewhere?

Interesting. Was the engine in the car when you did that though?

I’m not sure if mine is being extra finicky since it’s been this way for so long. There could be something holding it back from pushing towards the footwell, I may have routed the hard line incorrectly or something like that. I recall the proper routing for the clutch hard line goes through the air box (or battery?) tray, which seemed pretty asinine since it meant disconnecting the slave cylinder, so I didn’t do that.
 

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Yeah it goes through the airbox bracket lol

Not sure I am otherwise of much help here having installed my master cylinder with nothing in my engine bay.
 

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Yeah, I think I saw the same one on MVS? Or did you see it elsewhere?

Interesting. Was the engine in the car when you did that though?

I’m not sure if mine is being extra finicky since it’s been this way for so long. There could be something holding it back from pushing towards the footwell, I may have routed the hard line incorrectly or something like that. I recall the proper routing for the clutch hard line goes through the air box (or battery?) tray, which seemed pretty asinine since it meant disconnecting the slave cylinder, so I didn’t do that.
It's possible it was MVS, I was just using it as a reference. I was doing it all solo, with no extra helping hands, but the engine was out of the car.

As far as the clutch line goes, I pulled it all connected and complete from my donor car, and left it that way when I installed it in the T5. It didn't go "through" the battery tray, but it did go under it. Easy enough to remove.
You can see mine just hanging out in this pic.


I think the biggest futz was trying to sort out how to get it in there and situated with those drain tubes under the brake booster.

Honestly, you're going to need to bleed the system anyway, so disconnecting the line or the slave isn't that big of a deal. Using the reverse bleed method with a syringe takes about 10-15 minutes.
 
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