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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just replaced my 2007 S80 3.2 with a 2012 XC60 3.2, and I have a short list of problems to address, the first of which is the tailgate. When closed, it sits RIGHT ON the tops of the D pillars. I noticed evidence of some rubbing while I was replacing the gas list supports. It is running on both sides, and there is no apparent vertical adjustment for the door.

Just thinking about how this could be solved, I can only imagine that I would need some sort of shim under the hinges to raise the height of the hinges themselves. Alternately, if there were shims or insulators of some sort that were designed for the top of the tailgate or the top of the C pillar, and the door would rest safely on the car body slightly lifted, that might address the issue. I can't find any evidence that shims or insulators are supposed to exist (in parts diagrams).

I would love to year what anything thinks happened to this car. No evidence of accident damage exists, but I have to imagine that the hatch was removed at some point, and reinstalled incorrectly. If anyone has ever adjusted the tailgate, literally to "raise it up" in the closed position, I would be very appreciative of your advice.

Other issues I will move on to later: leaking front windshield when raining (doesn't appear to be sunroof drains, as I've tested them and they drain quickly); broken interior trim (seatback lock covers, driver's seat controls cover); noisy AC system at idle (intermittent -- when no too hot outside, doesn't vary with vehicle speed or RPM -- it disappears as soon as I apply throttle); unpleasant shifting, mostly in low gears.

The little SUV has 93,000k. I will check for a low AT fluid level, but I'm hoping the drivability will improve on its own the more I drive the car, or perhaps with a TCM update from the dealer. The AC noise evokes images of some common complaints (TEV adjustment TSB, AC line vibrations). The leaking windshield really annoys me -- my s80 did it too, and Volvo should be resealing these for free. I actually couldn't find a glass shop willing to reseal it, and FL insurance doesn't cover what the auto glass companies consider to be "wear and tear" -- only cracks.

BTW, my TEV doesn't have the white and green sticker on it, like the TSB describes, so the thermal expansion valve adjustment doesn't seem related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Adjusting the tailgate at the hinge bolt holes seems to have corrected the rubbing. I had to pry the door as far forward as possible before tightening the bolts down. This raises the door 2-3mm in the closed position. It’s still a very tight gap (not sure I could insert a piece of paper), but the creaking and rubbing noises when closing the door are gone.

moving on to the leaky windshield. Then the AC noise. I replied to an existing thread on noisy AC
 

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A couple of updates: the windshield still leaks, but I did find that the passenger-side sunroof drain wasn't up to snuff. It was draining very slowly. There was no clog. Instead, the drain hose was smashed between the headliner and other objects before making the turn down the A pillar. I carefully adjusted the routing and twisted the hose about 90 degrees so that the deformed area bends in a different direction. Replacement hoses are in my future, I'm sure.

I pressure tested the AC and found that it was a little low. I could live with the noise, but the sub-freezing air coming out of the dash vents got really annoying (didn't mention that above). The high pressure service port showed some evidence of leaking (unthread the cap, and hear a little burst of pressure. Shine a blacklight into the port and watch it glow...I imagine the car was recharged at some point with a dye in the refrigerant. I added a few ounces of refrigerant without changing anything else a this point to see if the noise changed. It's improved, and the temps out of the dash are better -- around 40 degrees lower than ambient air. I will think about what to do with the service port. Anyone try those tools that can be used to replace a service valve without evacuating the system? :)

ATF replacement: This one is ongoing. I drained the ATF and the first 3.5 quarts was awful. I sent a sample to Blackstone for fun. It came back with very high metals. Let's assume the oil has 93,500 miles of use. The Blackstone universal averages are for about 34k miles of use. Aluminum was about 8x the universal average. Iron was about 3x. Copper was about 6x. Tin about 9x. Nickel 8x. Silicon about 4x. No antifreeze. TAN 2.7. Viscosity was well within the ranges, but on the low side. Flashpoint was fine. These high metals suggest to me that the transmission isn't wearing well for just 93,500 miles. Now for the questionable part: I decided to drain and fill as many times as it would take to see at least a hint of "red" in the level drain -- because the first one was not really even brown (black, even when looking through a clear plastic water bottle with the sun on the other side, greenish gray when poured onto a white rag). The second drain was starting to look brownish on a rag. The third drain, still almost completely black in a bottle, was definitely red on a rag. It needs another one, in my opinion. I'm using...maxlife...because it's 17.99 a gallon at Walmart. It shifts better now, BTW. I'm going to watch it closely for a few months and then think about using WS if I think the transmission is likely to last me another couple of years.

Sorry for so many typos in the original post. Gas lifts..and rubbing tailgate -- the aftermarket lifts aren't much better than the 9 year-old OE lifts. I don't care about the poor clearance of the tailgate -- I'll just watch for rust, and then use some touch up paint if I see anything.
 
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