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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all

I recently completed a manual swap on my R and the wiring was kind of confusing. Since there was no references on here I decided to post up something to help others out.

This ONLY applies for 2006 R's so if you have another year you need to download the wiring diagrams and cross reference them with mine. I don't know the differences off tops but I know the pins in the CEM are different. If you know something about the wiring for other years please reply to this thread for future searchers but most of the below should apply.

This also only works if you are re configuring the CEM and ECU to manual, not if you are retaining automatic software.

Clutch Position Sensor

So you only need to run two wires for the clutch position sensor. These wires run to the ECU and go to pin B:4 and B:15 and they are intertwined black/brown wires on a manual harness. On the automatic harness, you will already have the brown wire at B:4 and all you need to do is splice into that wire. The automatic harness doesn't have a B:15 pin so you need to get a pin from another harness and add it. If there's already something at B:15, you are looking at the wrong pin or don't have a 2006.

To count pins, count on the ECU, not from the harness. Then just reference them to the connector. Remember the red part stays on the left when looking at the front of the car.

To get the wire inside the car, you need to remove the wipers and the big plastic piece that covers the wiper motors, also remove the wiper motor. You'll see a big connector with bolts and that's going to be the CEM cover. Open it and run the wires through to the clutch switch. I bought a manual harness to use the connectors for it but you can surely solder them to the sensor pins. If you need ECU pins, send me a PM I have a ton extra on my spare harness. REMEMBER to silicone the CEM cover back to the car after you confirm everything works, it will leak.

Shiftlock aka Reverse Lockout

There isn't much you have to do there, at least for the 2006 models. There is a VO-W wires that goes to A:25 on the CEM, a BL-W wires that goes to D:23 on the CEM as well as a SB (black) wire that is ground. All of these cables are already on the connector that goes to the GSM on the automatic so simply plug the connector into the M66 shift base and you're done there. Don't put the space ball on there until you know the lockout works correctly. It should activate at 15+ MPH going forward.

Reverse Sensor on the M66

Again, nothing extreme here. There is a Y-GR wire that goes to the CEM C:28 and a SB wire that is ground. Both of these already exist on the plug that goes to the TCM so simply put them on the connector for the M66 reverse sensor. My plug to the M66 didn't have pins but we found out that the pins on the big grey connector that goes to the headlight uses the same pins so remove them from there and add it to the connector or solder them to the pins direct. The Y-GR wire goes to the left side of the connector when looking at the front of the car if the push clip on the connector is facing the hood.

The Y-GR wire already goes to CEM pin C:28 but you can confirm this by taking off the connector under the wipers when you ran the CPS wires, check to see if the same color wire goes to C:28 or whatever pin your year of R uses.

That's about it. On the wiring diagrams, SB means black wire and the rest are self explainatory. 8/134 means the reverse lockout solenoid inside the car, 3/10 means teh reverse sensor on the M66 and 7/123 means the clutch position sensor. Watch a few vids on wiring diagrams on Youtube and you'll catch the jist pretty quickly. To find diagrams for your R, go HERE.


I took pics of a few of the diagrams below, these are the ones you will want to be looking at. You can reference these to your certain model year and follow the wires and pin locations needed. I am not an expert with wiring on these cars but I spent a few hours studying the diagrams and learned what I need to for the swap and everything works perfectly on my car.

Hope this helps! Again if you know something about the wiring for other years, please post some info on it here.

 

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Extremely helpful.... thank you for taking the time to post and allow others to benefit from you’re experience.

Well done.


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This also only works if you are re configuring the CEM and ECU to manual, not if you are retaining automatic software.
You re-flashed the CEM with an image for an M66 car? Where'd you have this done?
 

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You re-flashed the CEM with an image for an M66 car? Where'd you have this done?
There is no "manual" image for CEM. Its just part of the vehicle configuration block. You change gearbox type. Much the same as you would change if you have memory seats or folding mirrors etc.
CEM reprogramming is only needed to get rid of any phantom faults codes for missing TCM.
For the car to drive normally and so on you'd need to flash the ECM with a manual file for same engine and model year. Or if not available, convert the calibration file to manual. There are configuration bytes that need to be changed, so ECU runs off the maps that are meant for manual transmission.

 

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There is no "manual" image for CEM. Its just part of the vehicle configuration block. You change gearbox type. Much the same as you would change if you have memory seats or folding mirrors etc.
CEM reprogramming is only needed to get rid of any phantom faults codes for missing TCM.
For the car to drive normally and so on you'd need to flash the ECM with a manual file for same engine and model year. Or if not available, convert the calibration file to manual. There are configuration bytes that need to be changed, so ECU runs off the maps that are meant for manual transmission.
Right. Thanks for that, Gustav. That was also my understanding. I jumped the TCM's CAN bus wire to get rid of the major faults.
 

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Any reason why the clutch position sensor won't inhibit starting the car? I just did a manual swap and my car starts regardless of whether I have the clutch in or out. Otherwise, everything's fine and dandy.
 

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Any reason why the clutch position sensor won't inhibit starting the car? I just did a manual swap and my car starts regardless of whether I have the clutch in or out. Otherwise, everything's fine and dandy.
Depends on how you wired it up. The CEM normally drives the starter relay to enable the starter. That's one of the things that the clutch signal is used for in a factory M66 car. If your starter relay enabled some other way, then I can imagine the behavior that you've described.
 

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There is no "manual" image for CEM. Its just part of the vehicle configuration block. You change gearbox type. Much the same as you would change if you have memory seats or folding mirrors etc.

Is this a screenshot from VIDA? If not, can you call out the name of the tool/utility you one would use?
I bought a 3-day subscription and did not see these fields in the "Advanced" or "Parameters" tabs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Martin here is the harness that I am looking at. Based on my count B15 should be 2nd row closest to the black and 3 over.
Also I am the one who added the wire to the B4 it was not there initially
Is the spare harness you have a manual one?

I think you are looking at the wrong plug, looking at the diagram, I'm not seeing any other colors for wiring that is supposed to be around B4 and B15 but it's hard to tell by picture.

The end all could be to read the pins on the ECU itself then move to the corresponding plug.

You could be on the right plug but instead of counting over from the edge for B4 it's actually B44 or something.

Are you retuning the CEM and ECU? Because if not then you don't need to concern yourself with this yet really the car will not think about using the pins. The major thing would be to double check the CEM pins to make sure your reverse lockout and reverse lights work as they use a lot of the same automatic wiring.
 

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Is the spare harness you have a manual one?

I think you are looking at the wrong plug, looking at the diagram, I'm not seeing any other colors for wiring that is supposed to be around B4 and B15 but it's hard to tell by picture.

The end all could be to read the pins on the ECU itself then move to the corresponding plug.

You could be on the right plug but instead of counting over from the edge for B4 it's actually B44 or something.

Are you retuning the CEM and ECU? Because if not then you don't need to concern yourself with this yet really the car will not think about using the pins. The major thing would be to double check the CEM pins to make sure your reverse lockout and reverse lights work as they use a lot of the same automatic wiring.
Im 90% sure I'm reading it correctly and the correct plug since I rechecked if it plugged into that area also. The larger of the plugs going into the ECU is marked A for me.
Unfortunately I'm not sure if the harness is for an auto or manual in the donor car since I got the car with the swap half done so I had no clue I just pulled it out.
I'll update with another photo once I'm home in 5 min.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Im 90% sure I'm reading it correctly and the correct plug since I rechecked if it plugged into that area also. The larger of the plugs going into the ECU is marked A for me.
Unfortunately I'm not sure if the harness is for an auto or manual in the donor car since I got the car with the swap half done so I had no clue I just pulled it out.
I'll update with another photo once I'm home in 5 min.

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So you can check the harness type by looking for a twisted up (intertwined) brown and black wire coming from the ECU wiring that goes to a little plug and that little plug is for the CPS. If it's there then you can remove the entire wire twist up and install it for your CPS under the wiper arm cover and check your CEM pins at the same time.

If you check them, make sure you got heavy duty black silicone to reseal the CEM cover, it was a service advisory to do that when the cars came out as they leaked
 

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So you can check the harness type by looking for a twisted up (intertwined) brown and black wire coming from the ECU wiring that goes to a little plug and that little plug is for the CPS. If it's there then you can remove the entire wire twist up and install it for your CPS under the wiper arm cover and check your CEM pins at the same time.

If you check them, make sure you got heavy duty black silicone to reseal the CEM cover, it was a service advisory to do that when the cars came out as they leaked
I already pulled that cps plug out and ran it through the cem cover and resealed it. Its attached to the clutch pedal and I'm just trying to hook up that sensor ill end up worrying about the cem later since I just want to get the car running for now.
I thought this HAD to be wired before it was drivable

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here is this, this is traced from the cps in the donor car all the way to the harness connector on the donor car. Just above my thumb is where they're plugged in. That appears to be B6 and B17 though
Well if the car isnt reconfigured for manual then the cps doesnt really matter, the ECU isn't using the CPS pins as an input for anything. I and a bunch of others found that even after retuning and everything we can still start the car without depressing the clutch. If you don't retune I think the trick for lockout in order to get into reverse is to leave the TCM on and in the neutral position

I guess you were right there seems to be an anomaly because that isn't 2006 wiring per the diagram, if you are infact looking at the correct pins/plug. If other wires on the plug don't match what the diagram says (to help you orient yourself on the plug) then you must have different year wiring- it could have been a very early/late model.

I would maybe lookup other year diagrams in the link I provided in the initial post and see what year wiring you match up with. For the couple 2006 cars Ive helped with and seen before, the CPS goes to B4/B15 with B4 being a splice and B15 being a new pin.

Post back what you find and what ends up working!
 

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So far I've left the tcm plugged in and left in neutral and ive also left the plug at the shifter base unugged which would cause a reverse lockout as well.
With this being my first ever manual swap I wasn't sure if the CPS was being used for the gear change itself and telling the ecu what gear is being used etc.

Any risk with trying the same pin ins as the donor car harness?
Just want to make sure it won't short anything

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Any risk with trying the same pin ins as the donor car harness?
Just want to make sure it won't short anything
I can't say one way or the other. If both the donor and your car are 2006 they should be following the wiring diagram and if they arent then they have a different year wiring setup which is, odd and theres a risk there.

Again looking at the diagrams, B6 seems unused but B17 is used for something I cant tell what it is. B17 should be a brown wire with black tracer going to that module named 7/51 on the diagram but that doesnt correspond. See if you can find that wire somewhere else, if everything is off by 2 then it should be B19

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I'll do some looking, the annoying thing is, the donor car is an 05, but no longer a 4t4 engine, it was a 4t2 mated to the m66.
I looked at the wiring for an 05 and all the cps stuff seems identical to the 06 unless I'm reading it wrong on the diagram.

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