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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm just now finding out that I need a clutch switch for my manual swap. I was always told it was only necessary if you wanted cruise control (which I don't care about at all) but Hilton informed me that it is needed. Now here's my dilemma...

I have an 850 master cylinder, but I also have an 850 clutch switch. The 850 switch doesn't seem to fit my newer style pedal bracket anywhere. From what I've seen, the 1999+ mastery cylinder has a small attachment on the bottom of the rod for the 1999+ style clutch switch. I'm sure as hell not pulling this master back out unless it goes out, so I'm thinking I'll be able to modify it somehow if I need to. But before I do that has anyone else done something like this to use the clutch switch?
 

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im not sure if this would work or not, but cant you just wire up the switch like you have the clutch press? and then you have your switch but its some what bypassed. Im not a pro so don't quote me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think the ECU sends a signal to close the ETM when the clutch is depressed, according to what I read in VIDA. Other documents say the switch is just there to deactivate cruise control. I have the switch hooked up now, and its fully extended, so I believe that's why VIDA tells me there's a "faulty signal". I just have it sitting off to the side, not connected to the pedal since I'm unable to mount it currently.
 

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It's a PITA, but you shpuld be able to remove the plastic push rod from the master from inside the vehicle. I had to do it when I bought an S60R master & put it in my '98, didn't notice the rod length was different until after I had the MC bolted in place.

Only 99-00 had clutch (engagement) switches, so not sure what you are looking at on an 850. Maybe it's the (black) cruise switch on the pedal bracket? That has a vaccum line on it, so pretty obvious it's not the same as the clutch actuator switch used on ME7 cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's a PITA, but you shpuld be able to remove the plastic push rod from the master from inside the vehicle. I had to do it when I bought an S60R master & put it in my '98, didn't notice the rod length was different until after I had the MC bolted in place.

Only 99-00 had clutch (engagement) switches, so not sure what you are looking at on an 850. Maybe it's the (black) cruise switch on the pedal bracket? That has a vaccum line on it, so pretty obvious it's not the same as the clutch actuator switch used on ME7 cars.
That's probably the switch I have. Not sure there's a vacuum port on it, but it's a square switch. I'll have to dig it out of my parts stash and look up the part number.

How does that rod attach to the master though? Is it threaded on or is it a press fit? Fortunately there is another manual S60 in a local junkyard, so hopefully I'll be able to get to it before someone else to get the part. I ended up cutting the nub off of the one I got the clutch sensor from so I could maybe put it onto my push rod, but I'm not sure I want to bother trying to do that.

Although I guess the S60 part wouldn't work if the S60R push rod was too long for your V70.
 

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Does anyone know where to wire the clutch switch in on an automatic p80 v70 harness? I'm assuming its in the pnp switch wiring loom but I'm not too sure on specifics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Does anyone know where to wire the clutch switch in on an automatic p80 v70 harness? I'm assuming its in the pnp switch wiring loom but I'm not too sure on specifics.
You’ll have to run your own wires, as the pin that gets the signal from the clutch switch (B15) is non existent on the automatic harness. It’s actually a lot easier than it sounds, but you’ll have to add a pin to the ECU connector.

What I did was remove a pin from the now unused TCM connector and install it in the proper place on the ECU connector. The other wire is a ground, and I spliced that wire into the wire leading to ECU pin B4 just before it goes into the ECU connector.
Then, I routed the two wires through the grommet on the ECU box and covered them in corrugated wire wrap and ran them alongside the rectangular wiring harness cover. I used the firewall pass through grommet, which is attached to a small accordion hose/corrugated wrap-looking piece. Just cut one of the “tentacles” off and send the wires through. You can get to the other side by dropping the lower dash panel/storage compartment below the glove box. Then run the wires across the firewall to the clutch pedal. I also covered that section in wire wrap to protect the wires.
BlackT5 on Volvospeed has a great write up on that here http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topi...and-info/?page=6&tab=comments#comment-2202254
Look at the post from March 1st 2013.

I have not hooked up the switch to the pedal yet since I have an 850 master cylinder without the nubs to attach the switch, but I have the switch plugged in. VIDA shows a faulty signal, but I believe that’s due to the switch being overextended. I think the rod isn’t supposed to be all the way out when the clutch pedal is released.
 

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Here's a shot of the later clutch master with the clutch switch nubs. The switch never touches the pedal, it goes from the ball on the black part (right above the stud) to the ball on the white part. So you need the whole cylinder unfortunately.



And yeah I feel ya on not swapping it again, it's a nightmare even with the engine out. Although way easier if you remove that stud and use 2 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here's a shot of the later clutch master with the clutch switch nubs. The switch never touches the pedal, it goes from the ball on the black part (right above the stud) to the ball on the white part. So you need the whole cylinder unfortunately.



And yeah I feel ya on not swapping it again, it's a nightmare even with the engine out. Although way easier if you remove that stud and use 2 bolts.
Unfortunately I can't figure out an alternative mounting solution, so I think I'l have to order the master cylinder soon. Fun... lol
 

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You’ll have to run your own wires, as the pin that gets the signal from the clutch switch (B15) is non existent on the automatic harness. It’s actually a lot easier than it sounds, but you’ll have to add a pin to the ECU connector.
Thank You! I don't really need to install one because I have a 98 :cool: but I was curious to see how it might be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank You! I don't really need to install one because I have a 98 :cool: but I was curious to see how it might be done.
Lucky you! I prefer the '98, but the 2000 is what was for sale that day lol.

It's pretty easy overall, though. The hard part for me is that I'll have to replace the master cylinder, which I am not looking forward to at all.
 
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