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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My M66 AWD (9482415) arrived safely.



Quaife 14J - Thanks to VIVA for prompt service & great pricing!



EDIT - PArts list: diff- QDF14J. coupler - 31256008. bearings - 32010x/q 32008x/q. Seals - 9143911, 6843481, 8675580, 9143885, o-ring 976041. HondaBond 08718-0004

Remove shifter assy, shifter bracket



Spilt casing, 20 bolts, one inside bell housing. Check bearings and races for evidence of bluing/scoring. I soda-blasted the transaxle before dis-assembly.

EDIT: Transaxle is upside-down in these pics





Remove magnet, gear clusters and forks





Remove axle housing seal 9143911, carrier bearing race 32010x





Retain carrier preload shim, re-install behind new race 32008x



Install left axle seal 6843481



Use old seal to seat new seal 9143911



Use old race to install new race 32010x



Install 32010x bearing, 976041 oring 9143885 Axle seal on Diff



2.25" exhaust pipe is perfect size to tap race onto shaft



Install 32008x bearing on other side of diff. I used a 740 CIS motor casing, perfect fit over shaft



Install ring gear on Quaife, use 4 bolts to pull ring gear into place



Clean & loctite bolts



Re-install & torque to about 48ft/lbs



reassemble diff & gear clusters in casing EDIT: install new input shaft seal beforehand (8675580), reinstall magnet in lower slot.



Make sure reverse gear selector pivot arm is properly located -



Clean mating surfaces of all old sealant. apply new sealant (I used HondaBond), reassemble casing, torque bolts to 20ft/lb.

Re-install shifter assy - after checking for wear around this gate pin





All ready to roll. Just need a new 31256008 coupler. Use 1161748 spline grease to install.

 

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Good stuff. I was wanting to get my extra and take it apart for a teardown and rebuild, but finances have been tight this month since I had to pay off a car accident my 18yo had. Thanks for this write up, should get stickied so it doesn't get lost.
 

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Nice. I have a spare M66 AWD gearbox laying around so this might well be a neat "while you're at it" -project when the clutch is due to replacement anyway sometime next year.
 

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Very nice, adding this to the sticky for reference!

Something I noticed in this photograph of the rear cover. The "bottom", when installed, is toward the top of this view, correct? If so, that means the port visible at the top left is the drain, but it's surrounded by a slight boss which would leave a small pool of fluid. I would find it interesting that the design doesn't allow for a complete drain! Maybe I'm reading the photo wrong though...

 

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Dam Sweet - On the carrier preload shim, re-install behind new race 32008x is that Only Spot for Pre Load Checking and What are the
Back Lash or Spacing Required Tolerances in Those Areas .. Wow Love This !

Would You say the Entire Trans if Rebuild-able ? ( So Long as You had Good Gear Sets ? )
AS Euro RS Trans was Suppose to have Coated Gear Sets , but that was FWD Only ~ Sure would Neat to Know If M66 Guys
Could Barrow Parts from that Trans Ford RS Euro M66 . . ~

Even Thou it may just be Easier to Have Gears Set sent out to have Special Coating Applied . ( It's having Parts in Future ) Worries Me . .
 

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Very nice, adding this to the sticky for reference!

Something I noticed in this photograph of the rear cover. The "bottom", when installed, is toward the top of this view, correct? If so, that means the port visible at the top left is the drain, but it's surrounded by a slight boss which would leave a small pool of fluid. I would find it interesting that the design doesn't allow for a complete drain! Maybe I'm reading the photo wrong though...
I saw what you're seeing. The photos aren't loading here at work, but I think because the case is upright, it puts that area angled downwards so that it all drains out of the hole and the hole is the lowest point. I could be wrong. But yeah if the case was angled in such a way to make that place flat, that boss would prevent a full drain, especially of the hard material that has come off inside the trans since it would settle to the bottom during the drain. Doin' me a heckin' concern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Very nice, adding this to the sticky for reference!

Something I noticed in this photograph of the rear cover. The "bottom", when installed, is toward the top of this view, correct? If so, that means the port visible at the top left is the drain, but it's surrounded by a slight boss which would leave a small pool of fluid. I would find it interesting that the design doesn't allow for a complete drain! Maybe I'm reading the photo wrong though...
Yes, the cover is as if you pulled it off the case above and just laid it down towards you, so drain is top right. Transaxle sits at such an angle that the drain is absolutely the lowest point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Dam sweet - On the carrier preload shim, re-install behind new race 32008x is that only spot for pre load checking and what are the
backlash or spacing required tolerances in those areas .. Wow Love This !

Would you say the entire trans is rebuildable ? (so long as you had good gear sets ?)
AS Euro RS Trans was suppose to have coated gear sets , but that was FWD only ~ Sure would neat to know if M66 guys
could borrow parts from that trans Ford RS Euro M66 . . ~
Even though it may just be easier to have gearset sent out to have special coating applied. (It's having parts in future) Worries Me . .
That is the only place preload is set on these.
All the bearings can be replaced, that's all the internal parts you can source. Not sure why you would need the gears coated though. This trans has 100K miles & the gearsets are in excellent shape. The only problems I have experienced with the M66FWD & AWD are related to the shift assy (which can be replaced/ordered) or with fluid level (lack of) causing wear.

A member in Europe on C30Crew has used the Ford M66 in his C30, short gears & different FD. No reason you couldn't swap internals, but I think you'd have to swap them all vs. mix & match.
 

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Yes, the cover is as if you pulled it off the case above and just laid it down towards you, so drain is top right. Transaxle sits at such an angle that the drain is absolutely the lowest point.
Ah, top *right*. Ok, that makes sense. The boss (at top left) must be an oilway or some other passage. Still, it may retain a bit of debris, as a sort of appendix...
 

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Thanks for the great write-up and pictures. Was this easier or harder than a Quaife install on an M56?

Using a thin loop of solder, thicker than the shim (and temporarily in place of it), and dry assembling, would let the solder crush
down to determine the desired shim thickness.
 

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Are there any parts that Ford makes available for these (that Volvo doesn't)? Specifically the synchronizers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the great write-up and pictures. Was this easier or harder than a Quaife install on an M56?

Using a thin loop of solder, thicker than the shim (and temporarily in place of it), and dry assembling, would let the solder crush
down to determine the desired shim thickness.
One could do that. Would be necessary if you were using only half the case (AWD side) & combining w/FWD outer casing, as some have done. If you are only swapping out the diff & new bearings, there really is no need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Are there any parts that Ford makes available for these (that Volvo doesn't)? Specifically the synchronizers?
Not available through any wholesale or retail outlet/source that I can find evidence of :( The M66 PDF makes reference to the ability of 'upgrading' 4,5,6 synchronizers to the double pack used on 3rd gear.

White Line Material property
 

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These transmissions are made by Getrag. Might find sources through non-Volvo/non-Ford suppliers.
 

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You are my hero! My mechanic is a bit anxious about the preload on the new bearings. Of course no help from Volvo. Were you able to verify the shim was providing the right preload, or did you just hope it works out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You are my hero! My mechanic is a bit anxious about the preload on the new bearings. Of course no help from Volvo. Were you able to verify the shim was providing the right preload, or did you just hope it works out?
Sorry, didn't get an alert on this. My understanding Preload is pretty much determined by the casing variations, the tolerance on the Quaife diff (which would be what would otherwise alter the offset and therefore preload) is very tight to OEM spec.
 

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